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Ever run of of vehicles ?

H20 Toie

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 13, 2016
Posts
501
Reaction score
710
Location
Valencia California
Dropped the hellcat off for an oil change and got a ride home, wasn't really thinking about it until i realized that even thou i have 5 cars and 2 bikes, everyone of them needs something, Crewcab has an oil leak, van is getting air conditioning fixed, Blazer just lives at the shop, Suburban is getting a new motor and chopper is in for leaking front fork. man if something happens to my BMW bike i'm just going to go sit down in the pool and have a beer,
Humm maybe i should just do that anyway :)
 
Dropped the hellcat off for an oil change and got a ride home, wasn't really thinking about it until i realized that even thou i have 5 cars and 2 bikes, everyone of them needs something, Crewcab has an oil leak, van is getting air conditioning fixed, Blazer just lives at the shop, Suburban is getting a new motor and chopper is in for leaking front fork. man if something happens to my BMW bike i'm just going to go sit down in the pool and have a beer,
Humm maybe i should just do that anyway :)

Sounds vaguely familiar, although I've narrowed my herd down to three total vehicles. I just didn't have enough time to work on more of them.

Years back I got sick of HAVING to work on vehicles for the entire weekend just so I could get to work on Monday, or crawling under one to replace some wiring on the side of the highway, etc. I now have a FWD car that has no soul, but a long warranty and great mileage, so if/when it gets destroyed in an accident, I won't be out anything but a conveyance. Even being a rarely-used vehicle, the problems with the k5 never seem to stop. Even if I was able to retire today I don't think I'd ever be done working on that thing lol.
 
Yup for the most part all of my vehicles need something. The Blazer is still under the knife. Crew cab isn't running well still. Short box is out of gas and Ins is still suspended from Winter. Grey Blazer is good, but could use a tune up. Honda has an oil pan leak. The 2018 is solid though LOL
 
My dodge leaks ps fluid. Just started a strange belt squeal. Probably a pulley. Crew cab has 165hp. Not sure how much longer I can stand it. Probably put 4.56 in it this weekend. Blazer is on the trailer ready to wheel. But the frame is bent. That's about all the truck does though.
My honda three wheeler leaks from both forks now and no rear brakes since the submarine episodes.
The 2018 honda minivan is baller af though.
 
Nothing I own can be trusted past the end of my driveway..:(


I can only have one vehicle now,and I chose my 4x4 pickup only due to the fact I need something to go to the dump,plow,and haul something once in a blue moon...but its also the one that's got the most things about to fail or rot off it too..and the most uncomfortable too..

If I decided to start fixing all the truck needs "right",it'd be off the road at least 6 months...so I keep patching and ghetto fabbing it back together "good enough" to just keep it useable locally..

It sucks not having something you can hop in and "go" anywhere with and not fear you wont get there and back..but nowadays its so expensive to own anything fitting that description,I cant afford to buy,pay sales tax on,register or insure anything newer, that's dependable..

So,I stay home more,miss good concerts,and rarely go far any more...its no fun driving today anyways,too many other idiots on the roads trying to kill you to make it worthwhile going anywhere and have any fun..even if I had a new truck,I'd probably not want to drive it for those reasons,on top of poor night vision..
 
Knock on wood the cars Ive chosen to purchase in the last 3+ years have all panned out significantly well. After I took a bath on my wifes post GM partnership Suzuki Grand Vitara I made it a point to never buy an odd ball vehicle again. I bought the cars I bought base on engine/transmission combinations, parts availability, and chassis that were built with fleet purposes in mind.

My father told me I was insane when I mentioned that I bought an 04 impala because of these reasons roughly 3 years ago. He told me I should be looking for something newer and nicer with lower miles. I scoffed at him and said "on what planet is 85k miles not low to you for a 10 year old car." Then told him no problem we'll go buy whatever you just pay for it. Well that shut him up quick. Both my truck and that impala are a $500-800 junkyard motor and weekend away from running again if theres ever catastrophic failure.

That being said both vehicles have been extremely good to me. People should chose cars more wisely rather than just what they think looks pretty.
 
I have gotten down to just 4. I did swap everything but the engine in my '90 Jimmy a year or so back, and now I plan on pulling the body off to transplant.
:doah:

I feel like I could drive any of my 4 wherever, but that doesn't mean that I don't have things that I want to do to them.
The interior and A/C aren't done in the '72 C10, the '70 K10 needs a new evaporator core and condenser, and i would like to get better rear springs for it. My '95 has the original muffler finally leaking , so it and the cat are coming off when I figure out what muffler to put on.
 
The 2018 honda minivan is baller af though.

I laughed out loud when I read this part, :haha:

My K5 leaks outta pretty much everything that has fluid in it...but I could care less. Just throw cardboard down under it while it sits, then top off fluids when I go wheeling...the beauty of a trailer queen :pimp:

My DD is a 1996 bone stock jeep Cherokee with a 5-speed manual (bare bones with crank windows...love it). It has an oil leak, but other than that it just keeps going. It won't die. I drive the piss outta it (gets 20 mpg too) and rarely do anything to it other than normal oil changes, and it just keeps going. At this point, I'm just trying to see how long it will go, haha

My wife's 2002 Yukon is a solid runner, just has a bunch of annoying electrical gadget crap that keeps going out on it (like window motors, buttons and switches). And I try to put off as long as I can fixing those cause I'd rather spend my time working on the cool rigs I have...until the wife gets real pissed at me, then I devote and entire Saturday and a couple hundred bucks to fix as much as I can, haha

My 1999 Dodge Cummins runs good, but has a bunch of small crap that needs fixed like oil/power steering fluid leaks, as most 2nd gen dodges have, and I'll get to it eventually (which means it will never get fixed :ignore:), but its dependable enough. Just two months ago went from ID to CO and back towing my blazer and bikes and half of my garage for a week long wheeling/camping trip with no troubles. Honestly, will probably sell it sometimes soon to a flatbill'er who will pay me way too much for the truck and make money on the deal, then take half of it and go buy an older chevy again and keep some money in my pocket :sneaky:

The Crew Cab is what I love working on now...cause it's biznitchin. Have a bunch of things I want to iron out to make it even more of a nicer driver that can haul whatever I want...But it's already proven to be pretty dependable as I just drove it last weekend from ID to WY to UT to WY and back to ID with a slide-in camper on the way back :saweet:. Can't ask for much more than that
 
Currently at 3 vehicles.

2015 BMW motorcycle. Put 22,000 miles on it in 2 years. Haven't touched it since october actually. Just needs tires and regular service.

1972 M816 wrecker. Currently just a yard truck since last July. Needs another hub of wheel studs replaced and replacement tires before it can leave the yard. (sale pending on it)

1982 GMC k3500 crew cab. Daily driver with a gutless 6.2 diesel. Oil leaks from the dipstick tube.


Once the wrecker is gone I've been debating selling the bike and getting another 1 ton dually as a backup vehicle. Just a regular cab 2wd.
 
Seems like every 6.2 I've seen but one has an oil pan leak,either from rot, or a crack in it..

My 6.2 oil pan is (censored),it has bolts screwed in the rot holes and I covered them with Mar-Glass fiberglass body filler after a good douche with brake cleaner,then I found more pinholes where I hadn't put any filler,so I used RTV silicone to plug them up..then it started weeping at the "triangle" where the dipstick went..so I put RTV there too..

After I had to replace the drivers side exhaust manifold,the dipstick tube no longer had the tab & bolt to attach it to the manifold,so I used stainless steel mechanics wire around it to hold it secure (the tab rotted off and the manifold I had off a newer 6.2 lacked the screw hole for the bolt)--it holds as tight as it ever was,but then oil started oozing out where the dipstick tube slides in the oil pan...

I used an old silicone spark plug boot slid over that tube and oil pan receptacle tightly and put 2 hose clamps on it...now it barely drips at all from the oil pan..had doubts the bondo would take the heat and oil exposure,but so far its stayed bonded fine..better than the J-B Waterweld putty I used previously..that fell off when I touched it after a few months..

I now have two "good used" oil pans I could put on it--if I could lay under it long enough to do it,that is--been putting that job off for at least 5-6 years,maybe longer..might not ever do it unless I have no choice..everything is well oiled in that area so it probably will not rust any worse..I keep telling myself if the 6.2 had to be pulled out,I'd rather not put it back in..
 
It's all in your ability to fix it and fix it right, i guess. in the 4.5 years i've had my truck, it has served as my primary driver. After my initial tear down and rebuild after buying it, nothing has really ever broken down on it. I once drove out of my neighborhood and it didn't want to shift out of first gear (but a quart of ATF later, all was good). That said, I find myself stupidly throwing money at it like its a stripper, wasting money on things it definitely doesn't need.
 
As I've aged I've noticed the ratio of how often your vehicle has a serious issue develop is directly proportional to your ability to fix it..

Back when I was younger and able to do anything from an engine swap to rot repairs,after I got a good engine in something or all the rust repaired,I hardly ever had another issue with the vehicle as long as I owned them..I also had money then,if I had to send something out I couldn't handle or didn't want to deal with..

Now that I'm unable to do that much,and money is tight,it seems every other day I have something else :poo: the bed,and its usually never a "simple fix" that doesn't involve heavy lifting or bending over,or kneeling down for hours to accomplish..
 
I finally got around to getting my 81 Jimmy drivable again so i could do heads on my 06 F250
i have 5 cars/truck in my name and 1 motorcycle my rides and the wife,2kids cars they all run and drive but it is so much work to keep them all 100%
since the newest of all is an 06 and i try to not even let a cluster bulb outage go unattended LOL
 
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Seems like every 6.2 I've seen but one has an oil pan leak,either from rot, or a crack in it..

My 6.2 oil pan is (censored),it has bolts screwed in the rot holes and I covered them with Mar-Glass fiberglass body filler after a good douche with brake cleaner,then I found more pinholes where I hadn't put any filler,so I used RTV silicone to plug them up..then it started weeping at the "triangle" where the dipstick went..so I put RTV there too..

After I had to replace the drivers side exhaust manifold,the dipstick tube no longer had the tab & bolt to attach it to the manifold,so I used stainless steel mechanics wire around it to hold it secure (the tab rotted off and the manifold I had off a newer 6.2 lacked the screw hole for the bolt)--it holds as tight as it ever was,but then oil started oozing out where the dipstick tube slides in the oil pan...

I used an old silicone spark plug boot slid over that tube and oil pan receptacle tightly and put 2 hose clamps on it...now it barely drips at all from the oil pan..had doubts the bondo would take the heat and oil exposure,but so far its stayed bonded fine..better than the J-B Waterweld putty I used previously..that fell off when I touched it after a few months..

I now have two "good used" oil pans I could put on it--if I could lay under it long enough to do it,that is--been putting that job off for at least 5-6 years,maybe longer..might not ever do it unless I have no choice..everything is well oiled in that area so it probably will not rust any worse..I keep telling myself if the 6.2 had to be pulled out,I'd rather not put it back in..

Mine has the incorrect dipstick tube problem. Tried some RTV on it with a new gasket and no luck. Don't want to risk removing a exhaust bolt for a correct dipstick tube since the 6.2 is going to be replaced with a Isuzu 4bd1t I have sitting in storage.
 
The OEM exhaust manifold bolts on the 6.2 have a triangle shape where the threads are...mine all had to have the heads sawed or torched off,they were rivets ,not hex any more..:doah:..
--then I had to pry and smash the old manifold with a sledge to get it to come off the remnants of the bolts,I also had to cut slots in the manifold where the bolts pass thru it...was hitting and prying so hard I feared I'd crack the head on the dang thing..it finally came loose,then it was a battle trying to thread the thing down and out from under the truck..it only fits one way,and just barely..

After I had the exhaust manifold off,I was unable to unscrew the headless bolts ,usually this method works great on a gas V8 and they can be unscrewed with your fingers once they are free of the manifold,or vise grips ,pipe wrench if they are stubborn..--no such luck with a 6.2..the vise grips just slipped,and so did the pipe wrench,and it wouldn't fit in to reach half the bolts either..

I had to braze nuts to the "studs" and the only wrench you can use on the bolts is a box end,because they are so close to the frame rail, a ratchet and socket cant fit..all the bolts did come out though,but hard every turn..took only 2 hours of agony leaning over the fender..my ribs ached for months after that miserable job..

The weird thing is the new bolts went in like I'd just tapped the holes clean,they were regular hardware store metric ones..10 mm.so at least they had some meat left on them and didn't snap..also the OEM bolts on the parts engine I got the manifold from came right out,and the manifolds looked nice..

I didn't want to use those bolts though,the heads were starting to whittle down on them..new ones were almost $15,--I hate metric bolts,they rape you for them here,and your lucky to find any the right pitch and length too..only one store 6 miles away had enough to do the job..
 
Yea that is the exact pain in the ass that I don't want to deal with on this 6.2 while it's in the truck hahaha. Once then engine swap is done and the 6.2 is out of the truck then I'll fix it. Runs good, Just have to add about 1qt every 2-3 months
 
I am down to one truck...1991 V3500 Crew Cab that is running great. I wish I had a Hellcat to drop off for an oil change. I would change the oil myself. I do not trust anyone to touch my vehicles if at all possible.
 
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