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Exhaust Leak...EDIT:Rethinking the whole idea...

Are there any yards you could pick up a set of manifolds at up there?

Id get a pair from a yard and replace the studs on them before even touching the truck, that way theres less downtime screwing with rusted **** under the truck, then find a factory Y pipe and go from there with building something simple. The factor Y pipe should be stainless so no worries with rust as far as that goes.

I would avoid headers also, too many issues for most people with gaskets and warping.
 
Well there is a shop nearby that can install manifolds/headers and the muffler guy recommended it.

I was thinking of ordering some new Dorman manifolds, they seem to be priced pretty reasonable for brand new. I just hope that they will last.

I've read a bit about these ram horn manifolds, whats so special about them? Can they be bought brand new? Will there be clearance issues though?

My rig is a TBI and has the stove pipe that goes up to the air cleaner housing. I'm leaning towards staying stock for ease of fitment and reliability/longevity.

I'm going to talk to the manifold/header shop and see what they can order for me and book it if the price is right. Then, it will go directly to the muffler shop to have the new single exhaust system welded up.

Any other suggestions? The key is longevity here. I'm hoping this ultraflow muffler will do the trick. I probably won't bother with a catalytic convertor, since they aren't legislated here.
 
Well there is a shop nearby that can install manifolds/headers and the muffler guy recommended it.

I was thinking of ordering some new Dorman manifolds, they seem to be priced pretty reasonable for brand new. I just hope that they will last.

I've read a bit about these ram horn manifolds, whats so special about them? Can they be bought brand new? Will there be clearance issues though?

My rig is a TBI and has the stove pipe that goes up to the air cleaner housing. I'm leaning towards staying stock for ease of fitment and reliability/longevity.

I'm going to talk to the manifold/header shop and see what they can order for me and book it if the price is right. Then, it will go directly to the muffler shop to have the new single exhaust system welded up.

Any other suggestions? The key is longevity here. I'm hoping this ultraflow muffler will do the trick. I probably won't bother with a catalytic convertor, since they aren't legislated here.


Yes you can get ramshorns new from any roundy round website. Try speedway.

Basically the deal with ramshorns is they are the best small block manifold gm ever made, well for original SBC's anyway. And there should be no clearance issues but search on here first.

I dont think they ever came with the heat riser pipe BUT you can easily get a heat riser valve and thermo vacuum switch from a late 80s corvette setup and it will do the same thing. Or just eliminate it because it doesnt do very much.

If you are going to eliminate the cat you are going to create more noise. They do alot for quieting your exhaust so I would suggest you run a resonator pre muffler and post muffler.

Best case scenario would be to Y your exhaust together behind the tcase. Not only for clearance but also because you could fit one resonator on each side before y'ing it. Kind of like the late 80s F body cars did with dual cats in the y pipe.
 
I'll ask the guy at the manifold shop about the ram horns. If they fit good and aren't much different in price, then I'll consider them. I suppose the walker y pipe wouldn't fit in that case though? :dunno:

I want to stay away from having the exhaust shop weld up anything custom because it just doesn't last. I learned that after the last 2 times with the custom duals w/ crossover pipe.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys
 
I put a dynomax 2.25 inch exhaust header back system on my 83. Minutes price was quite close to what I ended up paying for summit. Minute was a 4 week wait, which I didnt have time for.

Anyways, everything fit quite nice. Never had any problems with anything. Ive always just done my own exhaust.



I to have always dealt with minute, they always have a great service. But Ive had 2 trucks done by them and havent had any problems. But none of it was really custom jobs though.
 
I'll ask the guy at the manifold shop about the ram horns. If they fit good and aren't much different in price, then I'll consider them. I suppose the walker y pipe wouldn't fit in that case though? :dunno:

I want to stay away from having the exhaust shop weld up anything custom because it just doesn't last. I learned that after the last 2 times with the custom duals w/ crossover pipe.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys

Paint exhaust with BBQ paint.
 
Not to sound rude man but ever heard the definition of insanity?

Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result.



Sounds like this guy uses crap components, charges too much, and I suspect is probably more in the "patching crap together and putting complete exhaust replacement parts on" line of exhaust work.

He the only game in town? I was looking for a shop to do work on my Tracker's exhaust last spring. Got nowhere with anyone around town, even to just fix two simple issues (put a new hanger on and fix the tailpipe). Finally ended up doing it myself. From talking to muscle car and Jeep guys since then there really isn't a good shop in town that actually custom bends and knows WTF they are doing if it isn't off the shelf parts or bodging junk together.
Meanwhile I was recommended a shop an hour away that is known for it's custom work with mandrel bends and decent prices. Also known for doing good by the muscle car guys.

You might ask around and see what comes up. Might be some small shop somewhere around that does custom work and will do you right...not hack **** together and be happy when you come back in a year to do it again and pay them more money.



Oh, and in your shoes I'd get some Dorman manifolds, some kind of custom Y pipe setup AFTER the t-case (seen that on here and eliminates the low hanging factory Y pipe setup), cat/cats, and then a muffler of your choice.

Either that or just get one of the aftermarket dual 2.25" kits. Not as trick but should bolt straight on to your truck.
 
Well, I've been going back and forth and doing this myself but I just can't do it. I've got too much on my plate.

This shop that I've been dealing with is supposed to be the best one in town.

I think I'm going to give them one last shot, but I'm going to be very specific about what I want done.

Which will be this:
-New manifolds (at manifold shop)
-factory Y pipe (gotta do it, I can't trust them to do anything custom)
-3" pipe to that ultraflow muffler and then out on the passenger side.
-no fancy tips this time, they rust too quickly.

He's going to call me on Friday when the Y-pipe comes in.

I know I hate to do it that way but thats my best bet. I just can't work on it myself at this point. This needs to get done before it starts getting too cold. Which reminds me, I really need to get my interior back together!
 
Well, I've been going back and forth and doing this myself but I just can't do it. I've got too much on my plate.

This shop that I've been dealing with is supposed to be the best one in town.

I think I'm going to give them one last shot, but I'm going to be very specific about what I want done.

Which will be this:
-New manifolds (at manifold shop)
-factory Y pipe (gotta do it, I can't trust them to do anything custom)
-3" pipe to that ultraflow muffler and then out on the passenger side.
-no fancy tips this time, they rust too quickly.

He's going to call me on Friday when the Y-pipe comes in.

I know I hate to do it that way but thats my best bet. I just can't work on it myself at this point. This needs to get done before it starts getting too cold. Which reminds me, I really need to get my interior back together!


Like AJM said man. Walk away from those losers. Clearly they dont know what theyre doing. While getting a perfect fit the first time around on and exhaust takes skill, the process of bending and installing a custom exhaust does not.

Our meineke around here doesnt even use factory exhaust piece unless its and emissions restricted car. They chop the old system off and bend up a new one all for under $300 for true duals.
 
Got some quotes at the other shop for manifolds.

Dorman manifolds: $546

Flow tech ceramic coated headers (shorty): $450

Edelbrock shorty ceramic coated (last set available in country- apparently they're d/c'd) $575

Plus installation would be $300. Additional $79 per hour if they run into trouble.

Hmmmmmmm.................................... :thinking:


So I'm looking at around $800 for the headers/manifolds and another $800 for the single exhaust system.

Now I'm rethinking the whole idea... If I'm going to spend $1600-$2000 on an exhaust system, it had better be EXACTLY what I want! I'm not sure that this engine is worth it for that much.. yea I had it rebuilt, but its just a mostly stock TBI engine with a mild comp cam in it.

The guy also told me about these Edelbrock Elite headers that are built for longevity. They're long tube and they are used in RV's and boats. Engines that need to run good for a long time. Apparently they have really thick flanges. They would be around the same price as well, but then I'd have to go with a dual exhaust again maybe.

:1zhelp:
 
Got some quotes at the other shop for manifolds.

Dorman manifolds: $546

Flow tech ceramic coated headers (shorty): $450

Edelbrock shorty ceramic coated (last set available in country- apparently they're d/c'd) $575

Plus installation would be $300. Additional $79 per hour if they run into trouble.

Hmmmmmmm.................................... :thinking:


So I'm looking at around $800 for the headers/manifolds and another $800 for the single exhaust system.

Now I'm rethinking the whole idea... If I'm going to spend $1600-$2000 on an exhaust system, it had better be EXACTLY what I want! I'm not sure that this engine is worth it for that much.. yea I had it rebuilt, but its just a mostly stock TBI engine with a mild comp cam in it.

The guy also told me about these Edelbrock Elite headers that are built for longevity. They're long tube and they are used in RV's and boats. Engines that need to run good for a long time. Apparently they have really thick flanges. They would be around the same price as well, but then I'd have to go with a dual exhaust again maybe.

:1zhelp:


Dude an exhaust should cost you $250-$450 dollars depending on muffler, cats, resonators etc. Not including headers...
 
For anyone that doesn't know, its going on this rig:

[Pic whore time:]

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Its come a long way from when I picked it up. Anyway, I'd like to do this so that I'm not wasting my money all the time.

[/Pic whore time]
 
The other thing I have been thinking is maybe just pick up another vehicle and do this myself over the winter. It would have to be a bolt on exhaust then, though because I can't weld.

Not sure I could manage the headers/manifolds myself though. They should come off decently though because I had the motor rebuilt not too long ago...
 
I'd go with the Hedman elites with the ceramic coating. First the tubes are 14 gauge instead of 16 or 18 like most out there. Second the flanges are 3/8" thick, where most others are 1/4" or 5/16". Their beefy, and coated and should last a good long time. I believe they have the ball and socket collectors too, which don't leak.

That install you could do yourself on a Saturday with common hand tools.

Even in Canada a good custom bent exhaust system, aluminized pipe etc from the collectors back should not cost more than $350 installed. Should be even less if you supply the mufflers.

Look into ordering through Summit. Yes you'll have to pay shipping and the brokerage fees...but it'll still be cheaper than buying locally. It frustrates me that the local speed shops and such feel the need to ass rape us here...but they do. Therefore I choose not to support them.
 
I wish! Thats not installed though, right?


Lol sorry dude thats installed...

Idk maybe we're spoiled here because our Meineke is owned by a great guy and his top guy has won custom exhaust build offs at SEMA but still a competent shop should be able to do an exhaust for under $400 including materials.


NOW if you really want your exhaust to last and never go anywhere then go find a good shop and have the exhaust made. Tell them you want it made so its easy to remove. Buy good vband clamp kits for that they dont leak and take no gaskets and dont bend the pipe when they clamp down.

Then send it all out to jet Hot coatings.
 
I'd go with the Hedman elites with the ceramic coating. First the tubes are 14 gauge instead of 16 or 18 like most out there. Second the flanges are 3/8" thick, where most others are 1/4" or 5/16". Their beefy, and coated and should last a good long time. I believe they have the ball and socket collectors too, which don't leak.

That install you could do yourself on a Saturday with common hand tools.

Even in Canada a good custom bent exhaust system, aluminized pipe etc from the collectors back should not cost more than $350 installed. Should be even less if you supply the mufflers.

Look into ordering through Summit. Yes you'll have to pay shipping and the brokerage fees...but it'll still be cheaper than buying locally. It frustrates me that the local speed shops and such feel the need to ass rape us here...but they do. Therefore I choose not to support them.

You got me going now.. :doah:
Are these the right ones?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-69890/

EDIT:
Nope! Thermal coated.
These are ceramic coated:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-69096/

Oh, wait a minute. The ceramic coated only has a 1/4" flange whereas the thermal coated has a 3/8" flange.

Not much of a difference in price between the two. Hell of a lot cheaper than $800+ installed! :yikes:

What kind of exhaust kit could I get for this? Or do I still have to have a shop make something up?

Single or duals?
 
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Thermal coated with the 3/8 flange and you can't go wrong. Been running mine for 3 years and they still look great, no rust. The 3/8 flange stays nice and tight, no leaks. I bought the offset extensions which connect to the ball flange and went up and over the cross member with them. Thus i'm running true duals.
 
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