greengiant0311
1/2 ton status
Hey all. Im looking to get a new exhaust in my 88 Burb. Ive been out of the scene for a while. Looking for street friendly ideas. Thank you
CK5
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Exhaust?
- Thread starter greengiant0311
- Start date
Buddy bought a kit for his '91 'burb from I believe Summit. Dynomax/Walker. They advertise their stuff as OEM, and in some vehicles even offer stainless. He was impressed with how easy it was to put in, and it was truly a mirror of the factory stuff he replaced. I like their online catalog.
My opinion anymore is that one should stick with single exhaust unless for space concerns you can't merge the 2 cylinder banks into 1. Cheaper, less to go wrong, less in the way when under the truck, single 3" flows way more than enough for a stock or even mild SBC.
My opinion anymore is that one should stick with single exhaust unless for space concerns you can't merge the 2 cylinder banks into 1. Cheaper, less to go wrong, less in the way when under the truck, single 3" flows way more than enough for a stock or even mild SBC.
Here's what's saved in my wish list at Summitracing:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gib-315590
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-40357
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-2900230
Might need a short piece of 3 inch to make the cat connection, but it should be a complete 3 inch system that will work great in our 88 suburbans.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gib-315590
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-40357
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-2900230
Might need a short piece of 3 inch to make the cat connection, but it should be a complete 3 inch system that will work great in our 88 suburbans.
I forgot to mention that realistically any hindrance to power on these rigs on exhaust past the manifolds, in a stock setup, is going to be the "pancake" converter, that really does flow poorly. Not like you will gain 20HP from swapping it, but those type converters are why many still unwisely believe converters cost power. The new honeycomb design converters are little to no restriction in terms of power production.
Also, FWIW, going with too large exhaust is as much a problem as going too small. OEM's have access to a lot more information than we do, and since exhaust volume decreases as it cools (and increases again after a converter), proper diameter of pipe is harder for the lay person to go with "proper" sizing. Sticking near what GM used (especially for a stock/near stock motor) is going to be your best bet at getting the happy medium between low end and upper end.
If one knew the exhaust gas temp at various locations, one could determine volume and thus pipe diameter requirements, but I don't know anyone that has that sort of equipment lying around. Goal would be to keep the pipe as small as possible while flowing as much as necessary at whatever RPM was deemed most critical. Variable flow capacity is coming (if not already here) to solve the one size fits all RPM's problem that current common exhaust systems have.
Also, FWIW, going with too large exhaust is as much a problem as going too small. OEM's have access to a lot more information than we do, and since exhaust volume decreases as it cools (and increases again after a converter), proper diameter of pipe is harder for the lay person to go with "proper" sizing. Sticking near what GM used (especially for a stock/near stock motor) is going to be your best bet at getting the happy medium between low end and upper end.
If one knew the exhaust gas temp at various locations, one could determine volume and thus pipe diameter requirements, but I don't know anyone that has that sort of equipment lying around. Goal would be to keep the pipe as small as possible while flowing as much as necessary at whatever RPM was deemed most critical. Variable flow capacity is coming (if not already here) to solve the one size fits all RPM's problem that current common exhaust systems have.
greengiant0311
1/2 ton status
Thanks for all the good info guys. I'll let yall know what I decide.
I've always found having a shop custom bend the whole system is cheaper than buying a premade kit. Plus, everything will be welded instead of a bunch of leaky clamps. My advise is to get a couple quotes on the job from locals. As a bonus the job is done much faster and you don't have to lay under the truck for hours cursing at the old rusty fasteners. It's a good idea to pick out your muffler and cat (if replacing) ahead of time and buy them online. I think the shop makes all their money on mufflers, cats and tips.
That's what I just did. I bought a 3" in/out Flowmaster Super 44 and a set of Flowtech headers all for under $200, the had a local shop weld and bend me a custom 3" single exhaust for another $375. Total price only $575 for a custom job.
evolve991
Resident Problem Child
I got a Manifold to Bumper dual exhaust system from Autoanything about 5 years ago (before I found CK5). No cats but everything else. It went together like no exhaust I ever did,even with just clamps, I still have no leaks or rust holes. Ran me 300 bucks and well worth it! Custom shop quoted me 400.
