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Expedition overland blazer. Please help

Agreed! Save alot of money that way too!

No doubt. Ben sent me a link to a fully tubed 454 blue k5 one night in Arizona for $7000. I've prolly doubled that in money put into mine and it's nowhere near as nice as that one was.
 
No doubt. Ben sent me a link to a fully tubed 454 blue k5 one night in Arizona for $7000. I've prolly doubled that in money put into mine and it's nowhere near as nice as that one was.
Looks like you've done a lot of work on your blazer. Did you do all the work yourself?
 
Just wanted to point you in the direction on the snorkel. Having that info should make it easier for you. The heating part was the hardest and I am not sure how the cheap China stuff would do. I am here for you when you get ready to pick my brain. Jist don't wait to long us old timers forget fast!
Thanks, as soon as I get ready to install that thing I'll let you know. How do you go about getting sponsors?
 
Looks like you've done a lot of work on your blazer. Did you do all the work yourself?

Yes I did all of it. If I were to do it again I'd have bought one that was already built nice and saved tons of money, and time.
 
I don't have an RTT. They are too tall on a roof that's already 7 feet high. Sleeping would be fine - you can buy ladder extensions and all that - it would just take a beating on the trails. I mount the hi-lift shaft to the rack and keep the mechanism inside to keep it oiled and happy. Then low stuff like chairs and messy stuff like the grill and chainsaw go up there. I would love to have a totally sealed gas can on its side up there. It's worth taking time to design a simple retention system for a rack. I have used ratchet straps and honestly it's a hassle to install and remove them all each day. I would like to upgrade the rack with hooks all around the base and use some long bungee cords or something else quick.

A low rack is actually kind of nice for carrying branches over the roof. I was actually thinking of making one that covered the cab as well to protect the sheet metal. You need solid mounting points to do much of that, though.
 
Sounds exciting! When I think of an expedition rig, the theme is reliability. An engine that doesn't stall or overheat, parts that are commonly available and easy to fix, and measures like good wiring, redundant systems, and nothing too fussy. Something that may be useful that I've seen on some rigs is an onboard welder, but that's probably overkill unless you're tackling terrain tough enough to break things.
 
Interesting that most of the advice for an expedition rig is the same as for everything else around here. The exception might be that people aren't pushing for 38+" tires. I think I'm basically doing the same thing, but I'm calling it "mild trail + street rig", and I'm not focusing much on camping gear.

Anyway, a CUCV pickup might be a cool base platform. If you're not in a hurry, I like the dirt simplicity of the NA diesel. It comes with the D60/14BFF already and you could toss in a pop-up camper. I saw a really cool CUCV with an original military enclosure in the back converted to a camper. I guess it depends how overlandy you want to get... you definitely start trading off-road capability for creature comforts.
 
I am going expo with my m1008, I'm going to build a drop in frame for the bed that's the same height as the bed rails so I can store stuff underneath and put a platform on top for a tent. Run a converted underneath for power. With a solar charger and a deep cycle battery for power.I think I am going to go with the TNA winch setup. Run led lights on polls off the bed rails for lights.
 
That sounds really cool! I've got the blazer and I've been looking at a few upgrades to the axles and suspension. Engine is good transmission shouldbe solid, transfer case is leaking a little that's going to get resealed asap and probably a slip yoke elimination. Ive been looking at all this H1 stuff on different websites. 37x12.50R16.5 for under 300 bucks looks like a deal, throw on some beadlock wheels also really cheap. I love camping and hiking, my back pack for like a 3 day hike only weighs like 20 go 27 lbs with food. I sleep in a hammock, super lightweight and comfortable, set up in under 5 minutes. As far as creature comforts I could get by with onboard air, and fridge I think. I want this k5 to be bulletproof before I do anymore cosmetic stuff, or "comforts".
 
I am going expo with my m1008, I'm going to build a drop in frame for the bed that's the same height as the bed rails so I can store stuff underneath and put a platform on top for a tent. Run a converted underneath for power. With a solar charger and a deep cycle battery for power.I think I am going to go with the TNA winch setup. Run led lights on polls off the bed rails for lights.
That is cool what kind of lights have you been looking at? What Lb winch?
 
I'm no expert on the H1 conversion, but be careful. They might not be the ticket for an expedition type deal since they are heavy, not DOT approved and I hear about balance problems with them. Tire replacement away from home may be more complicated. Someone else may chime in, but the upshot is that they might have issues if you intend to be able to cruise the interstates at 85 MPH.

When I priced them with the features I wanted, it didn't strike me as a huge bargain either, unless the beadlocks are important to you.
 
I think I am going to go with a 10k winch. As for LEDs I was thinking some from the boat store they sell all kinds.
 
I'm no expert on the H1 conversion, but be careful. They might not be the ticket for an expedition type deal since they are heavy, not DOT approved and I hear about balance problems with them. Tire replacement away from home may be more complicated. Someone else may chime in, but the upshot is that they might have issues if you intend to be able to cruise the interstates at 85 MPH.

When I priced them with the features I wanted, it didn't strike me as a huge bargain either, unless the beadlocks are important to you.

As a former military HMMWV mechanic, a lot of those issues are true. As for balance problems, never experienced an issue, but we're also talking speeds under 60 (About as fast as a military truck can go!) As for tire replacement, the two piece design can be an advantage, because you won't need special equipment or dangerous "redneck engineering" to mount a tire. You can also get runflat inserts for them. They do have an o-ring gasket that you have to keep spares for, because if you damage it while separating the wheel (very possible) the wheel will leak. I'd shy away from them just because of the weight.
 
Ok lots of good info. Here's the big question, would it be better to rebuild the junkie 10 bolts or get a 12 bolt with dana44? Or front and rear d44 or d60s? What would be the best axles for a good expo vehicle?
 
Ok lots of good info. Here's the big question, would it be better to rebuild the junkie 10 bolts or get a 12 bolt with dana44? Or front and rear d44 or d60s? What would be the best axles for a good expo vehicle?

D44 and 12 bolt really aren't an upgrade.
 
What tire size? In true expidition fashion the tire sizes usually stay small 35s or smaller and I would just look at upgrading the rear axle not the front. 14 b in either a sf or ff would be a good upgrade.

If you are wanting lockers front and rear and looking at reliability one tons are hard to go wrong with and with some careful trimming you can keep the truck low and trim fenders for bigger tires
 
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