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Expedition overland blazer. Please help

I notice my Detroit. It clunks once in a while and tires can chirp a little if I make a tight turn. I think it's no big deal, but it probably accelerates tire wear a bit. If you live someplace icy, there may be undesirable behaviors.
 
I have a Detroit in my 14BFF and from a dead stop, it chirps the tires when turning. If the truck is already rolling going into a turn it's not noticeable.
 
I wonder if it has to do with mine being a semi float 14 and it's a full case instead of the drop in style Detroit for the ff.
 
It's not a big deal to me. The first time I installed the Detroit I didn't know to take the shims out that are normally there with the spiders. So it stayed locked 100% of the time. That was a pain.

None of the CUCV's I've driven have done it, or atleast I didn't notice it. But they were all stock, not sure if that has anything to do with it.
 
My buddy's m1008 barks all the time.

I don't think it's a big deal. It's actually fun that way.

I saw air lockers fail this weekend. It'd be good piece of mind to run a non selectable locker in one axle.
 
I just got back from a 300 mile overland expedition type trip. The two best features of my truck are the front springs and my seats.

My buddy has a stock cucv m1008 and my truck has ord front springs and newerish 05 Chevy Silverado seats. There was no debating from our passengers that my truck was the truck to be in.

After 300 miles of high speed driving on washboard roads and giant potholes I can say without a doubt, comfy seats and soft springs make the trip.

Also, organization, and constant maintenance / bolt torquing. (Adam, I know what you're thinking)
 
Mastiff said:
Which ones in particular? U-bolts?
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Everything

Ubolts, driveshafts, shackles, spring eyes, shocks, body mounts, steering arm, trans mounts, engine mounts, tcase to trans, trans to engine.

Know your truck and keep track of every bolt you put on. If you get into some fast offroad driving like I was just in, you'll know where I'm coming from.

If you get lazy, you'll pay for it on long trips. I lost a bolt from my steering stabilizer and it got crushed by my leaf springs. I didn't check it when I checked shocks and wheels.
 
The ord springs you have, are they the custom springs that have more thin leaves? And how much lift do you have?
 
Jcash_k5 said:
The ord springs you have, are they the custom springs that have more thin leaves? And how much lift do you have?
Click to expand...

Yes, they are a pack of 10 thin leaf springs


And rich and i have the same 4" lift ORD springs

 
Jcash_k5 said:
That sounds really cool! I've got the blazer and I've been looking at a few upgrades to the axles and suspension. Engine is good transmission shouldbe solid, transfer case is leaking a little that's going to get resealed asap and probably a slip yoke elimination. Ive been looking at all this H1 stuff on different websites. 37x12.50R16.5 for under 300 bucks looks like a deal, throw on some beadlock wheels also really cheap. I love camping and hiking, my back pack for like a 3 day hike only weighs like 20 go 27 lbs with food. I sleep in a hammock, super lightweight and comfortable, set up in under 5 minutes. As far as creature comforts I could get by with onboard air, and fridge I think. I want this k5 to be bulletproof before I do anymore cosmetic stuff, or "comforts".
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Jcash_k5 said:
Ok lots of good info. Here's the big question, would it be better to rebuild the junkie 10 bolts or get a 12 bolt with dana44? Or front and rear d44 or d60s? What would be the best axles for a good expo vehicle?
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Jcash_k5 said:
Im probably going to be driving a good bit on the highway. Would a Detroit locker be a manageable situation in the rear or would it be difficult to drive or what. I might have found a set of axles d60 and 14bff.
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Here's my take on H1 setups.
1. Heavy wheel/tire combo= less power to the ground= less mpg= farther stopping distance
2. 16.5 tires are no longer common place in town to buy= you'll need matching spares on long trips. 15,17,18" wheels will have tires available in town to get you home. Might not be the same, but you won't be buying a wheel to put a tire on.
3. They wear like iron, last a long time and run out good. I had one set and never installed due to this being the only upside. Everything else is a negative.

Lockers
1. Get them
2. Have them installed in both axles
3. Don't drive stupid in the snow/ice

Fuel injection
1. Factory TBI is the hands down best option.
2. If it fails on a trip, install carb to get home
3. It won't fail completely
4. MPG/power/reliable is a ratio no expedition rig will get perfect
5. Reliable
6. My suburban with 300hp gets 16 mpg when I drive normal. It ran with 2 blown head gaskets and a broke piston.

Lift
1. 4" is the perfect lift.
2. Single 2.0 monotube shocks (high quality). I have Fox
3. Soft ride is essential for exploring

Axles
1. One tons are the bomb diggity
2. Take your time and build the right
3. Roll with what you have till you build them right.
4. Expedition rigs don't need more than 1/2 tons if you drive it right.
5. Brakes are an essential upgrade once the rig is loaded with gear.

I put between 3000 and 5000 adventure miles on my rigs a year. Not always in the Limo, but majority of the time.
 
natemc said:
Here's my take on H1 setups.
1. Heavy wheel/tire combo= less power to the ground= less mpg= farther stopping distance
2. 16.5 tires are no longer common place in town to buy= you'll need matching spares on long trips. 15,17,18" wheels will have tires available in town to get you home. Might not be the same, but you won't be buying a wheel to put a tire on.
3. They wear like iron, last a long time and run out good. I had one set and never installed due to this being the only upside. Everything else is a negative.

Lockers
1. Get them
2. Have them installed in both axles
3. Don't drive stupid in the snow/ice

Fuel injection
1. Factory TBI is the hands down best option.
2. If it fails on a trip, install carb to get home
3. It won't fail completely
4. MPG/power/reliable is a ratio no expedition rig will get perfect
5. Reliable
6. My suburban with 300hp gets 16 mpg when I drive normal. It ran with 2 blown head gaskets and a broke piston.

Lift
1. 4" is the perfect lift.
2. Single 2.0 monotube shocks (high quality). I have Fox
3. Soft ride is essential for exploring

Axles
1. One tons are the bomb diggity
2. Take your time and build the right
3. Roll with what you have till you build them right.
4. Expedition rigs don't need more than 1/2 tons if you drive it right.
5. Brakes are an essential upgrade once the rig is loaded with gear.

I put between 3000 and 5000 adventure miles on my rigs a year. Not always in the Limo, but majority of the time.
Click to expand...

That was perfect
 
Richcz28 said:
Everything

Ubolts, driveshafts, shackles, spring eyes, shocks, body mounts, steering arm, trans mounts, engine mounts, tcase to trans, trans to engine.

Know your truck and keep track of every bolt you put on. If you get into some fast offroad driving like I was just in, you'll know where I'm coming from.

If you get lazy, you'll pay for it on long trips. I lost a bolt from my steering stabilizer and it got crushed by my leaf springs. I didn't check it when I checked shocks and wheels.
Click to expand...

This is a good point. Before you head out for hundreds of miles of bouncing and shaking - torque every bolt you can find on the truck.
 
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