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Experimenting w/56" rears & wheelbase-52" fronts; finally some flex testing

mrk5

mrk5

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So this weekend I finally got started on my winter buildup of the General. The D60 and 14b are in along with 56" rear springs.

I went with a DIY shackle flip and switched it. I also installed the springs backwards to move the axle back.

DSCF1543.jpg





Am I right in assuming that longer shackles would fix this problem?

DSCF1542.jpg


Seems like using geometry, I should have made the shackles about 6" long. Right now I can make the spring hit the bottom of the shackle flip bracket. :doah: The shackles are currently 4.5" long.

Plus I was wanting more lift anyways. Right now the truck sits level with a zero rate on the 56s. The front is 2.5" Superlift springs, which I plan to take out in favor of 52s.

With the stock cover, I'm not going to have any issue with the axle back that far - aside from fender clearance. I think it will be fine regardless because the springs sit flat right now and I plan to bumpstop them from moving up any further. So the axle won't move up any further. Plus longer shackles will make clearance even better.

DSCF1546.jpg




I pulled the 56s from an 87 burb. I removed 2 leaves, the 2 that didn't have the little friction pads on the ends:

DSCF1511copy.jpg





Oh, and I love my porta-band. One cut and I gain almost 1" of clearance. :D

DSCF1530.jpg
 
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you should probably move the shackle flip back some. Even with another 1.5" of shackle the angle isn't going to be great.

How much further back did it move the axle by turning around the springs. It kind of looks funky have the centerline so far back in the wheel well.
 
Looks like you are doing alot of good work. Mine is going to be getting a little bit of an overhaul too. Tubed front, Springer Suspension rear, rebuild bumpers, clock tcase, ......

If you are planning on running stock non-cv driveshafts in the rear you will probably need to put a center limiting strap on the rear axle, & grind the front CV for the angularity.

Harley
 
P.S. grind that 14bff into submission. Keep going to you are really worried aobut seeing threads from the bottom bolthole. Mine is ground down to the threads. I want to grind it that far up sh*t happens. Also get a rock ring on the rear diff cover otherwise you will peel it up alot. I got a 3/8" thick steel ring from DIY on mine & it works well for keeping the stock cover from leaking. I also did the 1/4" plate strap over the ring gear on the 14bff. No problems yet with peeling or impacts.

Harley
 
I forgot to take a "before" measurement on the axle position. I have another stock K5 that I'm going to measure to get an idea of what the difference is. Right now I'm pretty sure it's the full 4" from running the springs backwards.

I was planning to run a non-cv shaft for now. I won't have the coin for a rear CV for awhile. That's an interesting idea with the center limiting strap; lets the axle articulate. :thinking: But not droop too far.
 
I did grind it down further after cutting that chunk off. Although not as far as you're talking.
 
mrk5 said:
I was planning to run a non-cv shaft for now. I won't have the coin for a rear CV for awhile. That's an interesting idea with the center limiting strap; lets the axle articulate. :thinking: But not droop too far.
Click to expand...

Trust me, I almost learned the hard way about that. I have a center limiter on my truck. It is also nice when you go to highlift the a$$end of the truck up cause it hits the limiting strap & stops center flex. The limiter saved my arse in Parker a few times I am sure. It doesn't hurt flex like you mentioned but will save you alot of $$$ & headache.

Harley
 
mrk5 said:
I did grind it down further after cutting that chunk off. Although not as far as you're talking.
Click to expand...

Remember to also grind the sides down also, not just the bottom. You don't have to grind the sides as heavily but just smooth out the whole diff from the pinion back & from the bottom of the axle tubes down. You would be surprised how much trimming & smoothing helps on the trail.

Harley
 
I'm not sure that moving the flip bracket back would help. I definitely wouldn't want to move it more than 1". My good buddy, B_to_C, has a 1-ton pickup that we put a shackle flip on.

His measures 54" from center of main eye to center of flip bushing. Mine measures 51.75". His shackle looks like this:

DSCF1539.jpg


There's only 2" difference between ours and quite the difference in angle. We both have 4.5" shackles & 56's with 5 leaves. The only other difference I can see is that his is about 300lbs lighter in the rear.
 
looks like that 2" makes a heck of a difference. I know I wouldn't mind having 2 extra inches. A happy medium for you might be 1-1/4" back from where it is now. then dial it in with shackle length.
 
I might go for the 1" back movement. I think I'll make some 6" shackles and see what that does. If it doesn't work, I'll move the flip bracket back about an 1".

I can probably even get B_to_C to drill the holes for me. :D
 
Here is my flip from Diy.

diy4x6.JPG


I am running 56s, Diy flip and 6" shackle. All I did was swap sides with the brackets no other mods at all and I think my shackle angle is near perfect:D .
 
14536MVC-026F.JPG


My shackles are in the stock location with 56" springs. It works fine. The angle is awsome. Later down the road I am gonna try and do some 57" springs with the stock hangers and see what happens.
 
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what year ford springs are they and do they fit in the stock chevy hangers.
 
sandawgk5 said:
Here is my flip from Diy.

diy4x6.JPG


I am running 56s, Diy flip and 6" shackle. All I did was swap sides with the brackets no other mods at all and I think my shackle angle is near perfect:D .
Click to expand...
Your angle is what I'm hoping for, so that's encouraging.


I haven't decided yet how I feel about the axle being that far back. I think I'll like the overall change in wheelbase, but it's going to make the fender wells look weird.
 
mrk5 said:
Your angle is what I'm hoping for, so that's encouraging.


I haven't decided yet how I feel about the axle being that far back. I think I'll like the overall change in wheelbase, but it's going to make the fender wells look weird.
Click to expand...

When I do flip mine I will just trim the wheel well to fit and look good. I am not concerned aboot sheet metal:D .

Ira
 
I'll have to see how the "new" tires clear. I think they will be fine, just a matter of form vs. function.

I'm anxious to see how it works out. It is fun to be able to play around with the wheelbase some like that. I have a zero-rate in there, so I could move the axle any direction with that. It's centered on the springs right now.
 
if you used the zero-rate to move the axle forward another 1.5 it would make a huge difference. you may be better off adding to the front too, instead of adding it all in the rear. my axle is back 2.5" and this is how my wheelwell looks:

im running a good bit more lift than you, but i think you can get a general idea

DSCN0549.JPG
 
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