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Extended PS Neck For Hydro Assist. Thoughts?

Copasetic

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Martinez, GA
Does anyone disagree with how I have this setup? The hose has the coiled wire inside for strength. That's one reason I didn't cut it. I don't have the zip tie very tight on the radiator hose, just snug. I thought about zip tying it to the master cylinder but I didn't want the extra vibration from the motor on that. I don't have any fluid in it yet because I wanted some of y'all thoughts on it before I filled it up and bled the system. Thanks guys!

2371869_63_full.jpg
 
i wouldnt think there would be any issue... the whole resevior is at "low pressure" and that is close to how many of the pumps were set up (rubber hose to a small tank reservoir) from factory. Only question is, how tight is the upper hose clamp? too tight = not checking fluid often enough, too loose = cap can come out. Is there a good sweet spot for it?

Also, make sure you dont fill the whole thing, when fluid gets hot, it will expand, so leave it down 2 or 3" from the top
 
I cut off the neck of an old PS pump and stuck it down in the top of the hose. I reckon I should have said that, lol. I snugged the top clamp down real good because I didn't want that piece working its way loose. Thanks for the fluid level input. I was going to fill it to where I could see it good (3 inches from the top, give or take) that way I could tell if it dropped when I check it. Thanks again!
 
I've been running that setup for a year now - works good. But like someone said, don't top it off, or it will spew fluid out the seal around the dipstick cap
 
:eek1: Thats a little overkill. you just need a short piece of hose not a foot. But as long as it does not leak it should work fine.

If you want the right way to bleed the air out let me know.
 
gmc4cw said:
:eek1: Thats a little overkill. you just need a short piece of hose not a foot. But as long as it does not leak it should work fine.

If you want the right way to bleed the air out let me know.

Why don't you just tell us :rolleyes:
 
gmc4cw said:
:eek1: Thats a little overkill. you just need a short piece of hose not a foot. But as long as it does not leak it should work fine.

If you want the right way to bleed the air out let me know.

The only reason I didn't cut it down was is that hose has the spiral wire inside of it for support and I was worried if I cut it that it would leak wherever I clamped it back down. Any tips on bleeding the system would be great. I've read up alot on here about and pretty much have it down but I'm always open to new/more suggestions. Thanks!
 
38377k5 said:
Why don't you just tell us :rolleyes:

because it easier to speak then type. :D did mine the hard way and then the easy way. the hard way is what you would think would be the easy way.
 
I'm using synthetic fluid but I have my doubts about whether my system is bled right. It likes to shoot fluid out of the vent in the cap (which keeps the reservoir pretty low) and the steering isn't as strong as I think it should be.

Maybe Copasetic will enlighten us all :dunno:
 
38377k5 said:
I'm using synthetic fluid but I have my doubts about whether my system is bled right. It likes to shoot fluid out of the vent in the cap (which keeps the reservoir pretty low) and the steering isn't as strong as I think it should be.

Maybe Copasetic will enlighten us all :dunno:
Just as soon as I can get an extra set of hands at the house to help me bleed the system I'll be sure to post up and let y'all know! :grin:
 
38377k5 said:
I'm using synthetic fluid but I have my doubts about whether my system is bled right. It likes to shoot fluid out of the vent in the cap (which keeps the reservoir pretty low) and the steering isn't as strong as I think it should be.

Maybe Copasetic will enlighten us all :dunno:

you need to do the majority of the work with the truck not running. if you try and bleed it running the pump will take any air in the system and just turn it to foam and you will never get it all out.

This is how to do it with a completely empty system, the method is the same for one that already has fluid but constantly has bubbles. this way will also alert you to leaks before they become a big mess.

jack the truck up so the tires are off the ground. unlock your steering. with the reservoir full and the truck not running turn your tires slowly all the way to one side. the level in the reservoir should have dropped significantly. fill it back up and slowly turn the tires all the way to the other side. you will see a lot of bubbles forming in the reservoir. this is the air coming out of the side of the ram that is closing.

you will need to cycle the steering back and forth lock to lock a few times while adding fluid, you want to work slowly to keep the bubbles down. synthetic foams a lot less the regular steering fluid. its worth the extra money.

once you can turn the tires lock to lock and no more bubbles come out of the system its time to run the truck. leave the truck jacked up. start the truck and let it run for a minute. is anything leaking? if not turn the wheel all the way to one side. you may get a lot of foam but if you were patient you shouldn't see much. If its foaming like crazy you rushed the first part. go drink a beer because its gonna take awhile for the foam to settle.

if its not foaming slowly turn the wheel to the other side. Foam? the level in your reservoir will be lower when your ram is fully extended, this is normal and is because the closed side of the ram has less volume due to the fact that the piston takes up some volume in the ram. This is why you need an extended reservoir.

This is a much easier process with 2 people. one in the engine bay and one behind the wheel. that way one of you can turn the wheel while the other adds fluid. Remember, the object is to get the air out. if the fluid is foaming you need to walk away and let it settle. if you keep messing with it you can ruin the pump and trap air in the system.
 
I see no reason yours wouldn't work just fine. You'll be able to hold more fluid is all. If your not already, you might think about adding a power steering cooler.

You can see how I did mine in this pic.

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JEBSR said:
I see no reason yours wouldn't work just fine. You'll be able to hold more fluid is all. If your not already, you might think about adding a power steering cooler.

You can see how I did mine in this pic.
I've got what looks like a finless cooler from the factory. I starts at the return line coming off of my steering box and then goes into the back of the steering pump.

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Yepper, same one I have. It works ok for me but when I run the winch to long (it's hydraulic) it still gets a little hot. I'm going to go bigger with mine but unless your running a hydraulic winch you should be good to go.
 
JEBSR said:
Yepper, same one I have. It works ok for me but when I run the winch to long (it's hydraulic) it still gets a little hot. I'm going to go bigger with mine but unless your running a hydraulic winch you should be good to go.
Naw, I've got an Warn M8K I'm going to run until I can get a bigger one for the front. Then I may just buy a reciever mount to have it on the back. I'm about to install dual batteries just for that too. Not to mention my dual electric fans I just bought, my 1000 watt stereo system and my wad of lights, lol.
 
JEBSR said:
Sounds like it's time for an alternator upgrade as well then.

Probably so. I think I saw in LMC a 105 amp one for my truck. That ought to keep up with what I'm going to have. Mine stock only puts out, what, 60-70 amps? Is there any way I can just look on the alt itself to tell?
 
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