Most year models round-eye squares “skid plate” option was a fairly cool use of double crossmembers with a connecting flat plate between them that went just under the lowest part of the 203/205 - rear most crossmember had additional brackets on each side to position it on the pickups ( can’t recall if the K5’s needed them or not ) where the frame started to kick upwards to keep it level with the primary crossmember .If you can, get more heat out of that little welder.
Better power to the welder always helps. Close to power meter, higher amp outlet, better heavier extension cord.
Am having trouble picturing where that is going to go.
Does it make a difference that the nuts and exposed threads are exposed to possible damage making it hard for removal?
