hey guys, whats the difference between external locking hubs and internal locking hubs?
CK5
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external vs internal hubs?
- Thread starter muddybuddy
- Start date
JIMs70K25
1/2 ton status
external nubs were found on dana44s(3/4ton) in the early 70s. They had a spacer between the hub and selector ring and mounted with 6ea 3/8" bolts. Notorous for coming loose. Also regarded as being weaker than internal style.
trkklr77
Registered Member
JIMs70K25 said:
i had a d44hd [external hub] and never had a problem with the hub/strength/bolts. i did bust a stub shaft and it chewed the in side lip a litlle but thats not the hubs fault.
i prefer ex-hubs, it makes wheel bearings an easier job and if you save the old flanges you get free 4x4 emergency repair parts and dont have to bum trail parts.
Muddytazz
1 ton status
JIMs70K25 said:
One way I've found out to eliminate that alleged(never seen it happen so I don't know)problem, is to use studs/nuts instead of bolts.
I use loctite on the grade 8 bolts I installed and also use grade 8 lock washers that get a good bite on both the hub and the head of the bolt. 
Warn used to sell those hubs with metal tabs that went under the bolt heads. You would tighten the bolts and then bend the tabs over against the hub body to keep the bolts from backing out. For some reason they don't even sell those as replacement parts now.
Warn used to sell those hubs with metal tabs that went under the bolt heads. You would tighten the bolts and then bend the tabs over against the hub body to keep the bolts from backing out. For some reason they don't even sell those as replacement parts now.
Just for the sake of making sure the difference is clear here check the Webshots link in my sig. In the "Parts" album there are examples of both internal and external D44 hubs (as well as D60's). 
The terminology refers to the way the locking hub is secured to the bearing hub. External typically has 3/8" bolt screwed into the hub snout itself whereas the internal style will have tiny (size??) bolts that screw into a retaining ring (or the hub body itself) that's held in by a snap ring.
The terminology refers to the way the locking hub is secured to the bearing hub. External typically has 3/8" bolt screwed into the hub snout itself whereas the internal style will have tiny (size??) bolts that screw into a retaining ring (or the hub body itself) that's held in by a snap ring.
alright, i just bought a 3/4 ton d44 with external hubs, thats why i asked, i jus need to go pick it up. so this is weaker than internal? external hubs were from the early 70s? so does that mean it prolly has flat knuckles? im planning on doing x-over, so that would be nice.
can external be converted to internal? or is it not worth the trouble?
i bought the 3/4 ton d44 and matching 14bolt 4.09/4.10 gears for $300, so even if external is weaker, ill make it work. it seemed like a good deal to me so i jumped on it.
can external be converted to internal? or is it not worth the trouble?
i bought the 3/4 ton d44 and matching 14bolt 4.09/4.10 gears for $300, so even if external is weaker, ill make it work. it seemed like a good deal to me so i jumped on it.
trkklr77
Registered Member
you can swap the spindle and bearing hub from a 10b to make it internal. also i belive a ford knuckle out will work.
i just talked to a buddy [s10 with a d44hd with stock external flange 456 gears and 39 tsls]just stripped the splines from the stub and flange
i just talked to a buddy [s10 with a d44hd with stock external flange 456 gears and 39 tsls]just stripped the splines from the stub and flange
Muddytazz said:
MISF has had them work loose even with all of that. Used Socket head set screws for the studs, buried tight with red locktite, and every type of nut you can think of. They all worked loose. The only way he could keep them tight was to safety wire the nuts. What a PITA that was.
