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Extra Elect Fan Question

Big Blzn

Big Blzn

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Question: I have a 400sbc with the stock radiator and fan shroud. I don't have a temp gauge that works properly and not really sure how hot the engine gets but it is a fairly high HP motor and for some reason when wheeling it just seems to be hotter than it should get but hasn't overheated yet. Or I could just be a tard? Would there be any benefit to adding a 16" electric pusher fan to the front side of the radiator to just get that bit of extra cooling especially for slower speed wheeling when it gets hot out outside?

Also, I have a TCI tranny cooler that is in use and just took off my A/C "radiator" or condenser or what ever it is called and put the 13" electric fan that what part of the a/c system on the tranny cooler with a toggle switch. Any problems with what I did? Should I have space between the Tranny cooler and the Engine radiator? It has always been up against the radiator so I just moved the 13" fan on top of the Tranny cooler. Should there be seperation between the cooler and radiator? Any help would be great.
Hoby
 
I run windstar fans on mine and it keep it cool pretty well. A friend has a built 427TD and was using the 7 blade fixed bus fan that it came with and would get hot, he switch to windstars and stays cool now too.
 
If you didn't have the fan shroud with the mechanical fan I'd recommend adding it, but since you do that's probably the best you can do with mechanical except for getting a different clutch or fan blade.

The electrics tend to work better as pullers. When I switched to dual electric, there's a huge difference. I can hear the fans kick on and watch the temp guage needle drop.
 
I don't have a temp gauge that works properly and not really sure how hot the engine gets
Click to expand...

This is the first thing you need to fix. You can install all the cooling fans you want but if you have no idea how HOT ot COLD the engine is it's worthless.
 
Agreed, first installation needs to be a temp gauge.

If your wheeling it, I'd also loose the mech. fan set up too, if/when you twist it up enough, it's going to hit the shroud anyway.

An elec. fan set up with a shroud PULLING the air through the rad. is by far the better way to go.

Very important to retain the shroud.

dcp_4571elecfan.jpg
 
4X4HIGH said:
This is the first thing you need to fix. You can install all the cooling fans you want but if you have no idea how HOT ot COLD the engine is it's worthless.
Click to expand...

Very true what you and ryoken are saying. My stock guage shows about 1/3 the way up the temp scale when ithe ambient (outside) temperature is well over 100* and the truck is in stop and go traffic. At this point it is the hottest the gauge has read but normally by the beach when it is in the 70's the temp gauge barely moves off the bottom.

Down the line I am going to pull a ryoken and do a nice new gauge cluster but what is a reliable but cheap and easy way to install a temp gauge in the K5? Not so much the gauge in the truck but what is the best way to hook it up to the cooling system to get the most accurate reading. The current stock wire that attaches to the fitting at the top of the intake manifold near the front seems to be a crappy way of getting a good reading. Or is that a fine way to do it but just get a better gauge and mount it on the bottom lip of the dash like a lot of people do? Then run the temp gauge wire directly to the stock fitting? Advice would be great.

is there anyway to put a new and or different temp plug or fitting where the existing one is to get a better reading with a new gauge? Some electrical and all gauge work is new to me.
Hoby
 
Buy a mechanical Autometer gauge. The sender should be installed in the driverside head between the #1-#3 cylinders. This is the most accurate. I mounted one of the underdash mount brackets and also used an angle shim behind it to angle the gauge towards me. I have mine mounted below the ashtray. I don't have an aftermarket temp gauge but i do have my engine oil and tranny oil temp gauge installed like this.
 
Big Blzn said:
The current stock wire that attaches to the fitting at the top of the intake manifold near the front seems to be a crappy way of getting a good reading. Or is that a fine way to do it but just get a better gauge and mount it on the bottom lip of the dash like a lot of people do?
Click to expand...

There is nothing inherently wrong with electrical, and/or the stock gauges.

If you don't make sure they work right, even a mechanical gauge is worthless. Go look at thermometers on a store shelf somewhere, you'll see why verifying function is important if you want accuracy, much more than whether the gauge is electric or mechanical.

I've "verified" my stock gauge against the ECM temp sender. I gotta figure if electric is good enough for every auto manufacturer on the planet to run a warrantied engine with, it should be good enough for my gauge. :)
 
My .02c
Two of the main engine vitals to monitor are Oil pressure and Coolant temp. Get yourself a twofer! One side oil press the other side coolant temp. Doesn't matter wich one you choose or how much you spend because something is better than nothing. Most two gauge kits have a mounting bracket, just mount it on the lip under your heater controls.
Run it like that until you can stuff the dash with whatever. :D
As for electric, I run Flex-a-lite dual 13.5" shrouded=
psc3.jpg

I have no cooling issues :D
 
Burt4x4 said:
My .02c
Two of the main engine vitals to monitor are Oil pressure and Coolant temp. Get yourself a twofer! One side oil press the other side coolant temp. Doesn't matter wich one you choose or how much you spend because something is better than nothing. Most two gauge kits have a mounting bracket, just mount it on the lip under your heater controls.
Run it like that until you can stuff the dash with whatever. :D
As for electric, I run Flex-a-lite dual 13.5" shrouded=
psc3.jpg

I have no cooling issues :D
Click to expand...

Fellas, Thanks for the info. This is something I will get on real soon so I have no problems in the future.

Steve. Nice setup. That Flex-a-lite is exactly what I want to do. I'm just going to have to save up for the $800 for the fans and do the flex-a-lite radiator at the same time. What is the gauge on the thermostat housing for?

Side note: Steve what size lift are you running with the 35" tires. I have 35" BFG's with about 4'' of lift but you seem to have more wheel well clearance than I do.
 
What I generally do in a build is pick the gauge model/line I want to run, and start picking them up here and there as needed or desired... do temp installs... a cheapie 2 or 3 gauge bracket mounted to the bottom of the dash with some nice AM's is far better than being able to "see" your inaccurate factory's.. yes, a dash like mine can be an end goal, but you can move it along in stages...





many moons ago.....



13480dash1.jpg
 
bp71k5 said:
If you want to save some money and have a little basic wood working skills, you can build a shroud and fans for way less.

Here's what I did on my 71 and cost less than $50 and works with the stock radiator:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212062&page=6

Edit, the fans cost more than $50 but were just purchased from a parts store.
Click to expand...

Couldn't find it??? Your link was to your NV4500 swap. If you have time i'd like to see what you mentioned. Thanks.
Hoby
 
Big Blzn said:
Fellas, Thanks for the info. This is something I will get on real soon so I have no problems in the future.

Steve. Nice setup. That Flex-a-lite is exactly what I want to do. I'm just going to have to save up for the $800 for the fans and do the flex-a-lite radiator at the same time. What is the gauge on the thermostat housing for?

Side note: Steve what size lift are you running with the 35" tires. I have 35" BFG's with about 4'' of lift but you seem to have more wheel well clearance than I do.
Click to expand...

Howdy, that guage you see is fuel pressure for the MPFI, it is not connected to the thermosat housing, the pic tricked your eyes hehee :D
I run the 4core rad, works great.
My 72 has 4"Rancho in front & rear is 5.5" SuperLift plus 3" bodylift.
Oh and depending on what pic you are looking at 35s are gone I run 36.5Iroks now. Here is the most recent:
P1030945.jpg
 
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