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I built these to keep the pivot point in exactly the same place in relation to the frame, but rotate the 4" stock shackle 180° down. In theory that should give 6"-8" lift and keep my ride height about the same after removing the other ... Stuff.
Ok, fair enough, since I've never done this before.
I was just saying if it were positioned perfectly vertical rotated 180° (down) on it's stock lower axis, at least the rear of the spring pack would be 8" lower. But yes, by spitting the difference by not moving the front hanger then I guess you are right. My bad
We're not trying to pick on your stuff, only trying to give good advice.
It's not that your hangers are weak, they look really strong to me
It's the frame and the bolts that becomes the weak link if you only bolt the hanger to the side of the frame.
I think I've pointed that out earlier as well.
What they're all trying and failing to say is that it will be much much stronger if you have them attached at two different planes. In this case, horizontal and vertical. Diy's have braces for the backside of the frame AND a plate for the bottom of the frame. Check kerts design out, it's top notch. I've bought 3 sets haha
I finally figured out what the springs are.
I called Superlift and gave them the dimensions and they said they are rear 5" lift springs for a '99-'13 Chevy truck. Part number 01-385 (with an added leaf)
According to them you measure straight across eye to eye while laying on the ground, which struck me as odd because everyone else says you measure the flat length.
Anyway, now I know what they are, I just need to decide if I'm going to try to use them or if I should just sell them and keep my 52's.
I just decided to stick with the factory springs and just do the shackle flips for now. The easy solution to bracing under the frame is to just leave the factory bracket (under the frame) riveted in place since my home brew flips fit against it perfectly.
My problem is going to be 9/16 drill bit to drill the shackle bolt holes in my new hangers.