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ez inch from diy4x need help

S

sandypants

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Ok i'm putting these ez inch blocks on so i can move my front axle out 1.5 inches like it say i can. but my problem is the axle' moves 1.5 in forward but the top plate does not. how the heck to i get the U bolts to line up?:rolleyes: thanx Sandypants
 
2 ways

1 = redrill the hole for the center pin to re line up 1.5" farward.

2 = new top plates with 3 holes 1 center/1 1" off center / 1 1.5" off center.

this will let you line up all parts in question.
 
Yup, you'll have to drill a new hole for the center pin or get new slotted spring plates (DIY4X sells those too).
 
well i drilled out the top plates but i wish i would have been told about this. one of those thing you just dont thing about if you never done before. also wasnt told about needing new u bolts but i got through it
 
Hate to dig up an old thread but I'm thinking of doing this to my truck and I'm wondering what do you guys do with the sway bar when you move the axle forward? My k5 gets a lot of street use so I don't want to just take it off. I have 6" springs and 37s when I'm totally flexed I rub a little. I figure 1"up + 1.5 forward would more than fix this rubbing issue.
 
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I'd disconnect the sway bar (and tie it up out of the way) and see how it drives. I'll bet that with a 6" lift you won't even notice a difference.
 
x2 unbolt that sucker and secure up and road test . you might be surprised how it drives and rides .

I have been running without on a few of my trucks for years . . . no problems.

one of them is even a plow truck with a old school fisher 8fthd snow plow that's 825ish lbs . that's on 3" hd tuff country springs .
 
rampage said:
I'd disconnect the sway bar (and tie it up out of the way) and see how it drives. I'll bet that with a 6" lift you won't even notice a difference.
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This
See if you even notice it gone. I don't really recommend moving the axle forward if you are still using stock steering either. It will make the draglink shorter, which isn't what you want. Re-using the sway bar is just a mater of making some frame mounts that also move it forward 1.5".

Also, folks don't ever think of this, but running a rear sway bar is easy and makes a big difference too. I ran a Hellwig on my blazer for long drives (4hours) and when at the dunes. It made the truck a lot nicer to drive with flexy suspension.
 
yeah i run without the sway bar when offroad and i have run it on the freeway, i personally dont like how it feels on the freeway, so I bolt it back on asap.

I think i may try the offroad design quick disconnect because it pivots and maybe that will make up for the 1.5" move forward.

I have an adjustable drag link (had to get something because of the 6" lift and dana 60 swap i have been running this for years, if anything it will help because the drag link is almost maxed out) . i have more than 2" of threads to bring in the drag link to compensate for moving it forward.

I am the type that LOVES the sway bar so if the quick disconnects dont work i may have to fab a bracket.

I would be interested in a rear sway bar as long as i could easily disconnect it to go wheeling. I like a tight zero body roll feel on the street especially at 80mph on the freeway
 
Because my axle is the 14b and not 10b, I ran a 3/4 ton Suburban rear sway bar from Hellwig. It came with everything but it had short links (for stock height) So I picked up some longer links from Summit. I also had to weld a tab on the frame mount because the blazer frame difference I guess. I also have my rear axle moved back so some spacers were needed.

All in all it was an easy install. My rear springs are softer than the front. It helped with the 2nd bobble and kept the truck more level. I have tools in the truck, so removal was easy. I just unbolted the links (9/16) and ziptied it out of the way. Actually, the zipties never really did much of anything. The bar is bolted to the axle, and moves with the axle. The links go to the frame. Once removed, the swaybar ends just move up and down, and rotate with the axle because it's U-bolted in tight.
 
AFD81221-E937-4B33-BB65-2F1F123AA9F9-13177-00001E3AAA1E957A_zpse7036972.jpg
 
I have found most lift springs don't need a sway bar with them. Personal preference here. The 1" lift blocks with offset holes are nice but you can offset without them. You can get 1.25" forward with a D44 just by drilling new holes. A 14bolt rear can move back 2.25" just by drilling. Not sure on the 10bolts but should be similar.
 
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HankScorpio said:
I have found most lift springs don't need a sway bar with them. Personal preference here. The 1" lift blocks with offset holes are nice but you can offset without then. You can get 1.25" forward with a D44 just by drilling new holes. A 14bolt rear can move back 2.25" just by drilling. Not sure on the 10bolts but should be similar.
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I wonder if I could do this with my D60 ?
 
Measured a stock gm d60 front last night. You can offset 1.5" with just a new hole. Plenty of room on the spring pad.
 
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