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F#$@%!* Ifs Trash

yellowK20

yellowK20

Well Lubricated
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well I just got done rebuilding the front end in my 97 sub:mad: :mad: I'd like to meet the mouth breathing slobbering dip**** inbread that designed that crap and Kick him in the nuts:eek1: ....... Okay sorry it was just a royal pain in the A$$ you have to unbolt the steering box form the frame to remove the pitman arm:doah: and then on the idler arm I dropped 2 sockets inside the frame and had to pull the front bumper to get them out:mad: :mad: I'm now looking for a ford 60 to replace all that crap . RANT OVER. Does any one know what size the hub nut is on the frontend??? I've got new rotors also and need to install them
 
matco sells a pitman arm puller that doesnt require pulling the steering box.

got one in my toolbox :waytogo:
 
ryan22re said:
matco sells a pitman arm puller that doesnt require pulling the steering box.

got one in my toolbox :waytogo:
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That' suck's man I wish i'd of known that before What's The part# I need to do my 93 next weekend:crazy:
 
yellowK20 said:
:mad: I'd like to meet the mouth breathing slobbering dip**** inbread that designed that crap and Kick him in the nuts:eek1: .......
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Do you write for the scary steering pages or are you just a fan?
 
cant seem to find it in the online catalog. try to find it in my print catalog or off the part itself when i get home. check back about midnight or so.
 
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-6496.html


OTC-6496.jpg
 
beater_k20 said:
if its a 1/2 ton sub, you shouldnt need to pull the hub nut. they should slide right over the hub.
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It's a 3/4 ton should be the same though I'll try it I've never done rotors on an Ifs truck before i just assumed that the nut held on the rotor
 
If it is the HD 3/4 ton it is not the same. The whole hub has to come off so you can press the studs out of the rotor. The axle nut, IIRC, is in the 36-38mm range. I have the socket but without getting it out don't recall the size. Then there are 4 bolts on the backside of the knuckle that have a 15mm head that have to be removed so the bearing/hub will come out. That is where it can get fun. I've had hubs rust in so hard that I hammered on the bolts to drive it out and had to replace all the bolts.

As for the pitman arm, I've been pulling them for years w/o a puller or removing the gear box. But that puller sure would come in handy!
 
I just read in my haynes manual that some of these are pressed on I'll find out this morning got to go to done and get some new allen wrenches
 
That pitman arm puller isn't cheap, but it's well worth the $. If you don't appreciate it the first time you replace your pitman arm, you definitely will the next time, and the time after that, and so on.... Why design something like that?
 
bluehen said:
That pitman arm puller isn't cheap, but it's well worth the $. If you don't appreciate it the first time you replace your pitman arm, you definitely will the next time, and the time after that, and so on.... Why design something like that?
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yeah the whole frontend on these trucks is garbage I will never buy another 88' or newer gm (except an 89-91 blazer/sub/v3500) Well I got the calipers off and it is the pressed rotor type so now I need to run to town to get the socket as soon as I can get the size:(
 
yellowK20 said:
yeah the whole frontend on these trucks is garbage I will never buy another 88' or newer gm (except an 89-91 blazer/sub/v3500) Well I got the calipers off and it is the pressed rotor type so now I need to run to town to get the socket as soon as I can get the size:(
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ill post the size this afternoon for ya, I just did a rebuild on my 99 3/4 ton suburban,:eek1:


I had just done a 1/2 ton sub and thought it was going to be a quick job....:haha:

also, watch the abs sensor on the front, the brake easy, you use a alan wrench to remove it, just stick the alan through a slot verticly in the rotor, its a tiny alan with like a 1/4 in thread size
 
36mmnapa part#7759022 just got back from town fixing to go pull this crap apart thanks for the heads up on the ABS sensor Any thing left of your red 75???
 
Damn it wasnt that big of a deal when I replaced the rotors on my 98 K3500 and I didnt even use a manual. I seem to be the only person in the world that loves GM IFS for daily driver duties. The only trouble I had when I replaced my rotors was getting the 4 15mm bolts off that hold the hub on. They are tighter than a nun's **** and I think they have some kind of thread locker on them. I broke 3 craftsman sockets (lets not go there though) before finally going to vatozone (only place that was still open) and buying a set of metric impact sockets. After that, I got it all done easy enough. I think I used a standard socket of some sort on the CV shaft nut, just cause thats all I had. My steering components probably need to be replaced but I'll get around to that when I can afford it.
 
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