CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Fair price for a reman NP-205

Z3PR

Banned
Joined
Mar 30, 2002
Posts
19,216
Reaction score
0
Location
Everywhere
I'm thinking when I upgrade my axles, that it'd be nice too change out my NP-203 in favor of a NP-205. I'm kinda slow about doing everything, been thinking of this for a year now. Just wondering what's a far price for a rebuilt NP-205 for a TH350 tranny. ????
 
I think you would have to really grill the builder.
a 'reman' could mean quick inspection and replace any 'bad' bearings, new seals, paint.
to me that isnt worth too much, maybe double what I can buy the bearing/seal kit for retail.
I cannot think of any real specialized tools required for that job other then a press if you change out the bushings that the gears ride on (annoying job that rebuilder will try and skip).
of course I am a cheap BXXXXXD and have paid too much for that job in the past and was very unhappy with what was handed to me for my $
 
gm dealer here will do me a 205 reman which is tear down, inspect, reseal and rebearing for 500 and i think thats one year parts warranty..
 
why?

to spend more money?

the 203 has a bad wrap. I wheeled the crap outta mine and it survived 3 trannys worth of abuse. its now in the front of my doubler and doing fine. when i took it all apart, the chain was tight, everything was great. bearings even looked reusable.
 
[ QUOTE ]

the 203 has a bad wrap.


[/ QUOTE ]
I don't think so.
We pulled many with bad chains, broken planetarys and then the shifter linkage /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif. IMO the only good thing about the '203 is the range box. I worked with a guy who broke the chain is his '203, was trying to drive after the rear driveshaft broke.
 
205's never go bad, they dont need nre bearings, unless probablly if the case was full of water, but theres never really much wrong with them. Just tear it apart, clean it and reseal it.
 
G.M. goodwrench has re-man transfer;s.24 month 24,000.00 mile warranty. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gifto /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
 
My 203 has held up fine for me, it is the original '76 transfer case, no rebuild. Last year, when I was on 31's, I took out the rear driveshaft, put it in low, and floored it on pavement. Spun the tires pretty good. I wanted to make sure the chain didn't slip. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif The 203 is still doing good, but the dana 44 eventually gave up under the abuse I gave it and it's sitting behind the shed waiting for a rebuild.

What I'm saying is, in my opinion full-time 203's that are well maintaned are pretty strong. They just aren't practically bulletproof like the 205's.
 
[ QUOTE ]
why?

to spend more money?

the 203 has a bad wrap. I wheeled the crap outta mine and it survived 3 trannys worth of abuse. its now in the front of my doubler and doing fine. when i took it all apart, the chain was tight, everything was great. bearings even looked reusable.



[/ QUOTE ]

Why? Cause the 203 I had was pure crap. It would pop out of 4 low, I adjusted the shifter to the T and it still did it. I had it rebuild with a fresh chain and bearings/seals... Ran good for a month then started popping out of 4low again, while the chain started skipping teeth again.

Through the whole thing away and installed a 205. 4 years later and still no problems.

Thats why!!!!

I now have 3 205's in my garage, one I'm currently rebuilding (so I can learn). I love em so much I think I'm going to put one in my bedroom /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
hey Waxer, any of those 205 for sale /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Sure. All 3 are sm465 version 205's. The one I'd sell right now for $100 has no yokes, so you'd need to get yokes for it. But I'll let it go for $100.


Steven
 
[ QUOTE ]
205's never go bad, they dont need nre bearings, unless probablly if the case was full of water, but theres never really much wrong with them. Just tear it apart, clean it and reseal it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Never say never. They use the same bearings as the 205 (more or less). I have seen 205's grenade (usually front or rear output shafts). I have seen engagement teeth and clutch rings worn from improper shifting/age/usage.
I have a 205 in one rig and a 203 in another. I hate the added weight of the 203 when trying to bench press it in place, but it gives me 2WD low with the part time kit (no grinding shift rails) and a better front driveshaft angle. I did make sure to replace the chain, and I pound the snot out of it without problems along with plowing. If you have a worn out chain, and try to abuse it, you will have problems (granted you wouldn't have to worry about it with a 205). Alot of 203's have high mileage on the chains as they usually still are full-time (or had lots of miles before the conversion), and people just throw them in or use them (it's like throwing in a used motor that hasn't had an oil change in 60K, you are just asking for trouble). I have seen worn chains snap and/or skip teeth and cause problems, but a new chain and good gears is stronger than most of us will ever need. What I usually tell people is that if they have a 203 they should keep it (rebuild if necessary), but if they are looking to swap a unit in (replacing a 208 or 241), they should get a 205 as parts seem to be easier to locate (i.e. still available from GM/Ford/Dodge) and driveshaft mods are necessary anyway. To each his own, but I like, use, and abuse both, but I maintain them as well and have never had a problem other than broken tranny to t-case adapters on the 205 ($$$$).
 
A complete gasket kit and bearing kit can be had for $200 or so. For about $300 you should be able to get it "rebuilt" by a local garage ASSuming nothing is wrong with the shift forks, "clutch rings", and/or gears. The forks from GM are about $50+ a piece (2), and the clutch rings are about the same (2), also if any of the teeth on the high/low gears are bad (usually bad if the clutch rings are bad) that can get expensive ($100+ per gear/shaft depending).

I would say it is something you should try yourself if time permits, that way you KNOW the condition of the internals. The only technical part is setting the endplay on the idler and that is not hard, just need a little patience. I and others will be glad to give input if you have any questions or hit any snags.

Tools: Assorted wrenches, dial indicator and base(can be "rented" at local auto store), brass punches (or race/seal driver) for removing seals/races, block of wood for installing seal (if no seal driver), snap-ring pliers (heavy duty style) or screwdrivers and PLENTY of patience to get the heavy duty snap rings off/on, 3/16" roll pin punch, and sockets that will fit the yoke nut(s). Also lots of rags and brake clean for washing parts. There are diagrams online of the layout of the case and several different write-ups on how to do it.

Just be warned the adapter for the 350/205 is not cheap $$$, plus you will need the drivesleeve $$.
 
I'm not opposed too swaping my transmission out for a TH400 if it'd make going to a NP-205 any easier (cheaper).
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom