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False floor and Center Console ideas.

I thinkd it is steal horse that makes a center locking console that has a spot for the radio already in it. They also have one that will hang obove the head if you have a roll cage. Both of them lock. The hanging one has a cb, radio, and a storage compartment.
 
The problem with one of the overhead consoles for a radio or cb is that they have to be 'dropped down' for radio access, but you can't drive with them down. Or the instructions say not to as the bouncing & vibes with damage the console.

Look up Austin Hardware for more latch types that you can possibly use.
 
This is how mine lookes.

FalseFloor1.jpg



I like having the raised floor when we are loading and unloading our luggage and stuff out of the back.
 
my rig

i don't know about your dash and yaer of truck...mine is an 84 without AC....so after i removed the dash there was a factory oriface for ac venting. after a little modification of the vent oriface, i made a hole in the dash to match the vent oriface. i then installed the stereo (cdplayer manual flip down face) in the vent oriface, then put the dash OVER the stereo. this will be a GREAT DEAL of trouble for any potential thief. later i will put a thin steel rod around the face of this stereo through the dash and metal dash, just for looks and to confuse any who would even THINK of trying to rip off my music box. i would add a pic but i'm not a paying member, either it's that or i don't know how.
 
colbystephens said:
i wondered about the cd deck working vertically. that's the only way i can envision being able to see the display on the deck if it were in the center console. any other ideas for putting a deck in the center console with the criteria being having the display visible and the deck can still work?


Look into the Eclipse CD5425 or any other deck with a tilting faceplate. that way you can mount normally and have the faceplate tilted out so its readable
 
CustomChevy said:
Look into the Eclipse CD5425 or any other deck with a tilting faceplate. that way you can mount normally and have the faceplate tilted out so its readable

That's a good idea. i hadn't considered that. I'll seriously think about that one. :)

Mrk5 - can you give some info about what you built in your truck - materials, locking mechanisms, etc? i like the storage box on the left side of your bed.

colby
 
if you design it right, the best "small" locks I've found are the ones designed for post office mailboxes... you can find them at HD or Lowes most times, but if you go down to your post office you can usually pick them up just as cheap. A little more heavy duty than the "desk drawer" types.

deadbolts are easy to pick and they just tear more stuff up when people try and rip em out.
 
colbystephens said:
That's a good idea. i hadn't considered that. I'll seriously think about that one. :)

Mrk5 - can you give some info about what you built in your truck - materials, locking mechanisms, etc? i like the storage box on the left side of your bed.

colby
I'm lucky and have access to scrap pieces of pretty cool stuff through our business.

The floor is actually made an aluminum material that has a corrugated plastic core = lightweight and rigid. I do plan to go back with some aluminum angle and frame it better, but it works for now.

I don't take my top off, so the box on the side I actually made with MDF. The same way I've seen speaker enclosures made. Cut the pieces and then screwed and glued it together. It's 4' long on the inside so that the long side front axle shaft will fit. I also bent up some thin guage aluminum to use as corner protectors. The nicest thing I added was a piece of hardware from ACE that holds the lid up.

When I finally get a soft-top, I will probably make that side box again with that same aluminum material.

If you really want to try and get that aluminum stuff, any sign shop should be able to get it. It's called Alumalite. It comes in a few colors with a baked enamel finish. Not knowing what their markup or cost is, expect to pay anywhere from $4-$7 per square foot, it all depends on how nice they are and if they have scrap they would like to unload.
 
MrK5 - I appreciate the tips.

dubbyx - i had no idea that deadbolts were that easy to pick - i guess you wouldn't call me an experienced theif. :) anyway, i was also considering those padlocks which have a more circular shape, rather than the box with a U at the top to prevent people from cutting these off. i don't know why i'm so paranoid. anyway, i'll have to check into the post office type locks - i'm not too familiar with those.

colby
 
colbystephens said:
i don't have any pics yet b/c nothing is made. however, i'll try and post up my design when i get that built on auto cad. :)


Can you send me a copy of the cad so I can look at it? what Software and version of cad are you designing it in?
 
i'd be using stuf at school, and actually i'm thinking that i'm going to use autodesk inventor - i don't know the version number but it's the latest. i know you can put autocad files into inventor, but i don't know if you can go the other way. however, if you'll drop me a line at my email ([email protected]), i'll keep you in mind when i finish the plans and i can just print them off, scan them into a computer and e-mail them to you. :) sound good? btw, my truck is an '83 - i would imagine that the majority of the interiors have very simlar and interchangeable features, but you'll need to recheck my numbers to fit your application, of course. ;)

colbystephens
 
I wish I didn't know they were so easy. Three car break ins in 2 months and ya learn pretty quick what works and what doesn't. The biggest consideration is what kind of leverage you can get on the lock. Nothing is fool-proof.

Go to a toolbox supplier and look at the contractor's job boxes. They have really good layouts on their lock setups, and are usually way overbuilt. It's not too unusual to see people using the smaller ones in their trucks around here to keep the theives out. I'd do that myself if they weren't so darned expensive.
 
dubbyx said:
I'd do that myself if they weren't so darned expensive.
That's no joke. They seem overpriced to me, but what do I know. :dunno:
 
Skigirl,
Do you have more pictures of your rig? Or maybe someone else - please post up!!

Thanks
 
ntsqd said:
The problem with one of the overhead consoles for a radio or cb is that they have to be 'dropped down' for radio access, but you can't drive with them down. Or the instructions say not to as the bouncing & vibes with damage the console.

Look up Austin Hardware for more latch types that you can possibly use.

CUSTOM HEADLINR73-87GM SC W/O HDLNR-BLK
P23004.jpg


$249.95
Acme Truck Part No: 74300.301


This Highliner Custom Headliner replaces or adds a dynamic custom styled headliner to your standard cab Pickup Truck by transforming the cab into a music center. The Highliner is manufactured out of high impact, leather-grained, black ABS plastic and can be painted to match the interior of any truck. Installation is easy and it includes 4-inch air suspension speakers with a 5.8 ounce magnet, which handls up to 10 watts of power per channel. High temperature resistant voice coils for a clean, crisp sound. Highliners come with foam speaker baffle and suppression pads, antenna extension cable, bezel plate, and offers great locations for sterio or CB mounting installation. Complete installation hardware and instructions with a one year limited warranty.
 
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