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Family Mountain Mobile (Fam.lee Moun.ten Mo.beel) - Take 2

1985 GMC Suburban
Hello fellow CK5ers. After a hiatus that was way too long... I’m back with a different rig.

Just to get everyone up to speed; if anyone cares.
I had an 88’ K5 that I spent a good amount of time and effort building as documented in this build thread:
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/88-k5-family-mountain-mobile-fam-lee-moun-ten-mo-beel.301328/

My previous 88’ K5
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However, as our family was transitioning and making some big decisions, I decided to put the K5 up for sale and I have regretted it ever since. But since selling it, and shifting gears in life, we have made some important decisions and met some important goals.

Besides our biological daughter, we also adopted a little boy, as an infant in 2015 and I can’t believe he’s already 4 now!
We also sold our horse boarding business and moved to the mountains about 30 minutes
from where we lived. Now we only have our own broodmares and are raising between 4 and 10 foals a year.
We now have multiple dogs and are breeding AKC Boxers on a limited basis. In fact, one of ours is whelping a litter right now.

I also started another business doing home inspections in our area and stay fairly busy in our area and surrounding counties.

So... after 5 years without a square body... I finally convinced my family that it is time to get another family rig again, except we needed more space for kids and dogs... so a burb was in order.. After a little bit of searching, I found a local Suburban for sale and it actually had a fair amount of work done to it about 10 years ago. After some wheeling and dealing, I hauled it home to get in driving order and start the next project. Although, this build up won’t be anything very technical or extreme, but enough to make the tank capable.

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All in all, the rig is ready to drive, it just needs some clean up and TLC to be reliable.
The engine is a mildly built 350 done by one of the old race engine builders in our area. I don’t have the specs on it, but it definitely pulls a decent grade without downshifting.

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It already has a mild lift with blocks in the back, but they will work for now until I can get some different axles under it in the future. The biggest problem is the tires are about 10 years old and weather checked pretty bad. I’ve taken it for a couple drives to feel how things work, check the brakes, etc. But I don’t want to take it too far, for fear of a tire blowing out on me. I don’t wanna buy a brand new set of tires since I will probably be bumping up a couple sizes once I find some bigger axles to go underneath it.

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It’s also got some other cool accessories on it like a front winch bumper, rear swing out tire carrier, old-school lighting (mostly burnt out). I just need to take all of that stuff off strip it down and repaint it again; but it’s all in pretty good condition.
 
I don’t have much cash on hand to start doing anything substantial right away, but getting my plates back on a deserving vehicle was imperative. So after shelling out overpriced registration fees, BNZMTNS is back on a square body again.

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After work today I went to check out some tires on Facebook marketplace. By golly... they are in decent shape and have set of Pacer wheels stuffed inside them too. They won’t quite go with the camo, backwoods theme, but the old tires have to go and the steel wheels have some cancer that may develop into rim leaks... so I gave the guy a few hundred bucks and took them home. They ought to work until an axle upgrade and bumping up to 17” wheels in the future.

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The next thing I need to address soon is the steering column and ignition key cylinder. When this burb was for sale in the owners front yard, some kids broke in and took it for a joy ride. Unfortunately, they busted the steering column up pretty bad and I’m not sure I’ll be able to fix it without full replacement. :doah:
So, I am open to suggestions if anybody has any experience with this type of damage. I hear these steering columns can be a pain to work on.
For now I just start it with pliers and will keep a steering wheel club handy for an anti theft device.

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Cool burb! I had the same family and dog problems, so we did the same thing. Land barge for the win!

I’m at the point that I am retrofitting a rear ac/heater unit and deciding on how crazy the consoles and stereo gets.
 
@6872xtc usually has a column or two around, or may know someone who does

or @oatsk5
Yep.

I already mentioned that to him in his thread in the garage. Someone found a new part that I believe would fix his column. And they aren't terrible to work on with experience and the right tools. I fixed a jammed one in a parking lot for a friend once, so a planned repair is easy.
 
How hard is getting in ,how big are the tires,it looks just bad ass

I’m a tall lanky guy so it’s not hard for me to get into anything.

Tires are 35s (315/75-16). I’ll probably bump up to 37s once I get some 1 tons under it in the future with hi-steer and crossover.
But for now, I just need to make it reliable and safe.
 
One of the first things I realized after my first test drive was the power steering was powerless... at least under 2,000 rpms. So, in goes a remanufactured PS pump and some new belts.

I didn’t have my own puller to swap the pulley, so I used the loaner from the auto parts store. It’s not a Snap-On kit, but by golly the cheap tool actually worked and I didn’t bust anything.

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I also needed to lean out the carburetor as it was definitely running rich. I just did it by sound, turning the screws in until the engine began to stumble and then backed out 1/4 turn. It’s not very scientific, but hopefully will work until I can get it to a friends shop for proper diagnostics.

Lastly, I discovered that 4wd wasn’t working properly and almost got stuck in the ice on my own property. I pulled it back in the garage and jacked up the back wheels to figure out where the problem was. I discovered the transfer case is engaging and the front driveshaft is spinning, but with both hubs engaged , the passenger axleshaft u-joint was spinning freely. So I either have a faulty hub, busted splines or something else on the passenger side.

So now my next dilemma. Do I spend any money on getting this 10 bolt operational, or do I just refrain from 4 wheel use for several months until I can locate/afford a D60 and necessary steering upgrades?
I know the answer, but my current budget won’t allow anything to happen anytime soon... so hub repair may be in order to actually be able to use the rig this summer.

Thoughts... opinions?
Anyone know of a CUCV set of 1 tons within 500 miles of Colorado?
 
I'd pull the hub apart and take a look first. Might just not be engaging
 
I'd pull the hub apart and take a look first. Might just not be engaging
Agreed,
I would have investigated further this afternoon, but the snow started blowing pretty good and I had other chores that needed my attention.
If I’m lucky, I’ll find something simple when I have a chance to pull the hub apart.
 
Agreed,
I would have investigated further this afternoon, but the snow started blowing pretty good and I had other chores that needed my attention.
If I’m lucky, I’ll find something simple when I have a chance to pull the hub apart.
Depends what kind it is, some get stuck in open positions when the grease dries up or freezes
 
Depends what kind it is, some get stuck in open positions when the grease dries up or freezes

They are standard Warn hubs and both feel fairly normal when turning to lock/unlock.
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I guess I’ll see what things look like when I decided to open it up. Right now Ive got snow to plow and temps are around 0°... so it will be a while until I can get the daily drivers out of the garage let the burb warm up in the garage to investigate.
 
They are standard Warn hubs and both feel fairly normal when turning to lock/unlock.
View attachment 328811
View attachment 328812

I guess I’ll see what things look like when I decided to open it up. Right now Ive got snow to plow and temps are around 0°... so it will be a while until I can get the daily drivers out of the garage let the burb warm up in the garage to investigate.
These are the ones that will stick.
They are spring loaded so they are easy to turn then you move and the spring pushes the hub in when it lines up.
 
These are the ones that will stick.
They are spring loaded so they are easy to turn then you move and the spring pushes the hub in when it lines up.
Good to know.
I know this rig sat for a long time before I purchased it and who knows how long since the hubs had been engaged prior to that.
I imagine I’ll find some dried up cake looking grease when I pull them apart.
 

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