Fasteners. Nuts, bolts, washers, etc…

[joshuak]

What’s your preferred fastening technique in different situations. Searched and came up empty.

A project is trying to graduate to being road worthy. When I put it together I used zinc plated grade 8 nuts and bolts from the local home and garden center, now I’d like to add some sort of securing mechanism.

Pic bellow of what I found in the shed: lock washers, torque lock nuts, nylock nuts, serrated flange nut and bolts. flanged nuts and bolts are also pictured I get it no locking benefit, just increasing clamping surface and yes washers are 3/8” and bolt/nut 5/16”, just posing.

Missing nord lock washers, what else?

Also, living in the rust belt it’s hard not to put anti seize on everything but it may be counter productive. And where do the different Thread Locks compounds fit in?

What’s your preference and why?

 

[nvrenuf]

For me, it depends on the part but I like flat washers and a lock nut. If it’s something I don’t intend to ever take back apart (like a shackle flip bracket) I prefer Stover/prevailing torque nuts.

 

[joshuak]

For me, it depends on the part but I like flat washers and a lock nut. …

Single use?

Do you bother with antiseize or not required in your AO?

 

[obijuank5]

Fine thread, coarse, serrated, flanged, flat washers all have their place. But the only place a split washer belongs is in the trash.

 

[mrk5]

Crossmembers and the like, I use flat washers with grade c locknuts. Less critical items, I like serrated flange bolts and nuts. Just started using more of the fine thread stuff like when I bolted the fabricated bed to the frame.

 

[nvrenuf]

Single use?

Do you bother with antiseize or not required in your AO?

I typically don’t use antiseize unless it’s something prone to rusting (u-bolts) or dissimilar metals (bolts threaded into aluminum).

I use blue Loctite more than antiseize, things like bellhousing, tcase adapter, etc.

 

[eodcoduto]

The running joke in aerospace we say is cross threaded thread is a locking feature! Proper torque for the fastener and material is essential.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

Some kind of bearing surface on either side and proper torque - to get appropriate stretch on the bolt. If it's life or death, you'd want to find the appropriate lube to make sure your torque is correct.

 

[kennyw]

The application has more to do with the proper selection of fasteners than anything else. You don't need to look to far for a good example of what works. The fasteners GM installed at the factory have lasted 40 years without many issues when installed properly. If you are putting it back on the road nearly stock, stock fasteners are fine. If you are building something that will exceed the stock use case, then it is time to start looking for something better.

 

[centexk5]

Grade 8 bolts with lock tite and an impact. Served me well for 20yrs.

 

[Chickntrk]

I’m also in the rust belt, I antiseize everything, some love it some hate it but I’d rather be able to get it apart of I need to. If I have to use a lock nut I use nylocks, they hold but also come back off…my rule has always been if it rotates, locktite it (fan hubs, driveshafts, torque converter, etc.

 

[joshuak]

Thanks for posting up guys, really interesting to see how everyone does it and whats worked for y’all.

I’m also in the rust belt, I antiseize everything, some love it some hate it but I’d rather be able to get it apart of I need to…

Salt/brine introduces a different factor into the equation for sure. If I only use antiseize on things that rust I need to coat the truck inside and out.

This is an oil feed line on an engine block, friggin nut has a pinhole.

 

[Chickntrk]

Yea not a lot of need for locknuts in the north east, after one winter it’ll be locked on

 

[wyo_tom]

The running joke in aerospace we say is cross threaded thread is a locking feature! Proper torque for the fastener and material is essential.

Lol. We say cross threading is natures locktite

 

[Chickntrk]

Cross threads are better than no threads!

 

[tarussell]

Anti-seize is great and keeps corrosion down but keep in mind that it is a lubricant and that effects the torque value of the components being fastened together.
Torque values are different for either dry or lubricated applications and if a dry value has a friction modifier applied the end result usually is torqued beyond yield and therefore less clamping force is applied.
A fastener that is cross threaded or beyond yield may resist backing off but it will never compress as it was intended to no matter what type of lock nut/washers are used and clamping force is compromised negatively.

As mentioned earlier the split washers are at the bottom of the pile and should only be used for bicycles. And in the industrial world the nylon type lock nuts are not allowed ( beyond small hardware and are only a onetime use application ).
On bigger fasteners the dimpled nuts are common but are still a one and done type of deal. In the automotive field things are a bit more forgiving but please keep in mind of the effects of torque values when adding a friction modifier where the original torque spec was dry.