Faster Turn-around Crossover Steering?

[xntrx]

Looking for faster option to removing the Passenger side knuckle to install crossover steering. I currently have a limited time for the swap, and while I can aford the kit, it involves serious down-time and also R&R time that I need to dedicate to other projects. Looking to eliminate the bumpsteer issues.

I would like to get your opinion on an idea that I had, that would be relatively quick;
I have a C10 donor with near new steering componets on it. All of my tie rods and stabilizers are new on my truck also.
The plan would be to swap the Idler, gearbox, pitman, and center link. Puchase a drag link and drivers side arm from ORD etc. This would do the same as the other crossover setups, just transfer the drop point to the passenger side instead of the drivers side (pass.


From what I can tell the benefit would be;

• Fast turn around
• Gm (mostly parts)
• no need to machine passenger knuckle
• Lower cost
• transfer of a slight amount load to passenger side frame also

Downside;

• added friction is steering
• unproven
• passenger side tie rod hole in centerlink is slightly inwards. (shorter drag link required, possibly slightly more reactive to suspension travel.)

A picture of c10 steering for reference(crap, cant post links)

 

[sweetk30]

talked about before and not good idea.

all the extra parts in the system just = more places for slop.

also long draglink is the key to better steering feel as it moves less over the long distance and = less bump steering or other problems to the drivers wheel.

and its steering do it right 1 time and be safe to drive for you AND OTHERS on the road.

 

[63chevyll]

pretty clever idea, but the crossover IS proven and works very well.

 

[xntrx]

I have a feeling I'm not saying this right. All of the threads I am finding are talking about some sort of Y or T setup that looks dangerous. This would introduce 3 additional wear locations, but may split the loads better. How this would work is similar to a double crossover;

The 2wd steering would remain intact (sans tie rod ends).
ORD draglink from the passenger tie rod hole (in the 2wd centerlink) to a ORD Highstear driver's side steering arm on the knuckle.

Could possibly use dropped pitman and idler to improve angles.

Does this make sense?

 

[63chevyll]

yeah I got it.

Maybe try it on your truck and see how it works,
Im sure the loads on the idler arm would cause extra slop. Those idler arms wear out with no suspension travel with the 2wd set up,
(and even have play when new) i could only imagine how with verticle loads and more movment than designed

 

[sweetk30]

not much diffrent than jeep stock stuff thats o.k. at best and also old twin ibeam ford stuff that was so bad that superlift made a new design steering kit for the twin ibeam equiped trucks that were lifted.

sounds like you need to search a little and all your answers will be read . lots of guys have tryed other things here but thay all basicly go true crossover in the end.

 

[owenst7]

It wouldn't actually reduce stress in the linkage because the idler arm doesn't apply any torque. The parasitic vertical load in the draglink would be shared unevenly by the idler and steering box, but the great majority of that force would be applied to the idler arm, which is not very strong in that direction. And as others pointed out, you would inevitably be decreasing the length of the drag link, which in turn increases that parasitic force.

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Statics/Method_of_Joints
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Statics/Method_of_Sections

 

[6.2Blazer]

Just sounds so much simpler to do a traditional cross-over steering. If time is the biggest issue just buy a knuckle already machined and ready for the steering arm (assuming you are talking about a 10-bolt or D44), or have one ready to go. Replacing the knuckle would likely be a lot faster than trying to cobble together all the stuff you are talking about.

 

[496truck]

Just sounds so much simpler to do a traditional cross-over steering. If time is the biggest issue just buy a knuckle already machined and ready for the steering arm (assuming you are talking about a 10-bolt or D44), or have one ready to go. Replacing the knuckle would likely be a lot faster than trying to cobble together all the stuff you are talking about.

Yup. If time is the biggest concern get another knuckle. Either a good used one or ORD sells brand new ones. Then get a couple ball joints installed in the replacement knuckle. Once you have it all together swap it all out in a couple hours.

alright, maybe a little more than a couple hours. But you get the idea.

Don't end up on the scary steering website.... or in the morgue.

 

[blazinzuk]

I have a fairly good grasp of what you are doing and I think that would take much longer than swapping in an already drilled and machined knuckle.

If you don't have time you will just need to get a knuckle that is already drilled and tapped.

If you are short time than experimentation is not where its at