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Fender Cutting

Sqeejo

Sqeejo

1/2 ton status
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Jul 5, 2008
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Lubbock, TX
Okay now with the advent of a new Daily Driver the Blazer Can start getting hacked up. In a effort to a)save some cash on lifting b)fit bigger meats c) get better clearance and angles I am goign to hack the fenders.

ANYONE know of a write up on bobbing the fenders and such? I've seen some that cut the back and front at the lower body line. Just can't remember where I saw it.
 
Done a search on here? I talked with the gurus here before I did mine and a bunch of them had links and write ups of it. From hack and slash to fancy factory looking work.
 
From my build thread. More pics there.

Fenderdimensions.jpg


IMG_1137.jpg
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Done a search on here? I talked with the gurus here before I did mine and a bunch of them had links and write ups of it. From hack and slash to fancy factory looking work.
Click to expand...

Yeah I tried the search but didn't really find what I was looking for.

From my build thread. More pics there.
Click to expand...

Thanks man! thats what I was thinking of. I am going to have to subscribe to your build thread. :D
 
heres how i cut mine. I took a tape measure and hook it over the fender lip and then held a sharpie at the 2" mark and followed the curve of the fender
Then I marked a spot just past the bolt closet to the cab floor on the bottom of the fender and then hand drew the line to meet up with the existing line.

I used a Milwauke power Shear do cut my fenders but a Sawzall,grinder,Plasma cutter will work too

IMG_1936.JPG
 
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The date in the pics bum me out. Still sitting in the same spot. :(:haha:
 
I am not a big fan of doing most trimming till you get the tires. In the past I have found that less trimming is usually needed that what is done.

I have done 4 blazers with 36x 12.5 swampers on them and none of them needed trimmed in the back and most only needed a very very small amount of trim in the front. At least visible trimming.

So I say do a little know and wait till you get the thing running and out there then trim as needed.

One problem with this method is if the springs are new lift springs as they will settle some, so sometimes if you trim just enough, just enough becomes not quite there after a couple months.

Did I miss it but what size tire and what lift
 
I agree that it helps to mount the tires first and see what you need to do. I thought I had trimmed off enough, but the first time I got twisted up off road, the rough edges that I had cut behind the tires started to cut into the rubber and I ended up cutting some more metal off before I went off road again. The first time I cut the fenders I used a reciprocating saw and marked off how much I wanted to cut with blue painters tape. It turned out okay. When I went back and cut some more, I used a pneumatic cutoff wheel powered by a powerful air compressor that would flow over 5 cfm (read high RPM) and just eyeballed it. That was so much easier and cleaner looking, and it didn't vibrate me to death. I found that if I just cut the rear of the wheel opening flush with the inner fender, I can fit 35s with a 4" lift and I don't get any rubbing when I go off road. Extended bumpstops also help to keep the tires off the fenders. Don't forget to spray a little primer on a small paint or acid brush or something and paint it on the bare metal after you cut it so it won't rust.
 
blazinzuk said:
I am not a big fan of doing most trimming till you get the tires. In the past I have found that less trimming is usually needed that what is done.

I have done 4 blazers with 36x 12.5 swampers on them and none of them needed trimmed in the back and most only needed a very very small amount of trim in the front. At least visible trimming.

So I say do a little know and wait till you get the thing running and out there then trim as needed.

One problem with this method is if the springs are new lift springs as they will settle some, so sometimes if you trim just enough, just enough becomes not quite there after a couple months.

Did I miss it but what size tire and what lift
Click to expand...

4" lift with maybe a 1 inch body lift. And I think that I may have a lead on some 37 MTR's or 38 TSL. I just don't want to get crazy with the lift and lose my center of gravity being lower.
 
I'm runnin' 40's with about the same amount of lift... make sure you move the front axle forward with a zero rate or ez inch and you're golden.
 
a 4" with 37s or 38s would be nice, you won't bet too tall, just about right.

Having said that following the trims on this page will get you really close probably leave you with a bit of extra room for when you want to get 40s lol
 
blazinzuk said:
a 4" with 37s or 38s would be nice, you won't bet too tall, just about right.

Having said that following the trims on this page will get you really close probably leave you with a bit of extra room for when you want to get 40s lol
Click to expand...

Lol no doubt.

I'm runnin' 40's with about the same amount of lift... make sure you move the front axle forward with a zero rate or ez inch and you're golden.
Click to expand...

Would that be with like the ORD Zero Rate blocks?

Offset%20Zero%20Rate%201.JPG
 
Yep.

I need to do this with mine still. Have the zero rates in but haven't relocated the front axle, just used them as blocks.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Yep.

I need to do this with mine still. Have the zero rates in but haven't relocated the front axle, just used them as blocks.
Click to expand...

Yeah I didn't even think about it looking at the three holes on there that you could move them. LOL guess that is what I get for not reading.
 
It's not that complicated. You just attach the pack to the zero rate using the offset hole and drill a new hole in the spring plate. I couldn't wrap my mind around it until I actually had a set in my hands.
 
I guess if I get a set then I will probably be the same way.


(I'll just ask ORD for installation tips written in the "suspension setups for dummies" style)
 
what else is involved with a 1 inch move forward? Can you do it with stock steering and just need to adjust steering link in for the shorter distance?
 
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