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few questions

nerraw117

nerraw117

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1. ok first is i believe that my ecm does not have constant power. yall know how to check for that and where it runs into it at?

2. how hard is it to replace the rear main seal when the tranny is pulled with a 90 tbi one piece main?

3. my doors are very very thin, as in the mirror shakes and i can push the outside part in maybe 4 inches. its very soft and its 79 doors btw. anyone got a fix or know whats wrong?

4. last is how much can you already have trimmed of your fenders to run something like bushwacker cut out fender flares?
 
Your doors might be missing an internal brace that goes in somewhere under the wing window.

I'm not sure if this piece was always used, or was added later on, but I know that it strengthens the mirror area of the door.
 
anyone?


dyeager535 said:
Your doors might be missing an internal brace that goes in somewhere under the wing window.

I'm not sure if this piece was always used, or was added later on, but I know that it strengthens the mirror area of the door.
Click to expand...
 
What year doors are we dealing with?

I would hazard a guess that at a minimum the '81+ doors had them, but I also vaguely recall a thread awhile back about this topic. That might shed more light on it.

As I recall, if you pop off the door panel and look, there will be a 10mm-ish bolt head below the wing window somewhere, with a square rubber anti-rattle pad under it. I assume the other end of that piece is bolted underneath the mirror cover?
 
they are 79 doors. its just not the mirrors and yes i have tightneded them. its the door itself. i can push it in with hardly any force



dyeager535 said:
What year doors are we dealing with?

I would hazard a guess that at a minimum the '81+ doors had them, but I also vaguely recall a thread awhile back about this topic. That might shed more light on it.

As I recall, if you pop off the door panel and look, there will be a 10mm-ish bolt head below the wing window somewhere, with a square rubber anti-rattle pad under it. I assume the other end of that piece is bolted underneath the mirror cover?
Click to expand...
 
yeh, if you grab his door handle and it is locked, you can pull outward probably an inch, the actual sheetmetal flexing outward. Also if you have the door locked, shut the door and it doesnt shut fully, and push on the handle, the metal will flex inward about 2 inches.
 
the post 80's have that "J" shape roundrod bracket that Dorian is talking about.. It goes from the inner shell, around the front of the windowtrack and over to the bottom mirror bracket bolt...

I don't remember if my 77 had it..

Tho those doors don't have any crossbracing, they'll usually stay reasonably solid due to the handle backing plate and folded edge at the felt lip... check to make sure your sheetmetal isn't cracked up under the wing window rubber, where the post is.. or the inner and outer sheetmetal tab that connect at the wing window..... that area basically ties the outer skin to the shell...
 
b/c its like his computer 'unlearns'. When you turn the truck off for more than a minute, it takes awhile to catch & fire. Turns over & over and then fires. Does that whether sitting overnight or sitting at a gasstation. But if you turn it off and then immediately start it back, it fires right up.

Also after it has sat & you turn it off and you begin driving it is a slow dog. If it has sat for a minute and apparently unlearned, when you refire and start driving it is slow as snot. But the longer you drive it, as the computer seems to relearn parameters it gains power.

Its very weird how that truck seems to run.
 
Won't matter if it has power or not, should start the same either way. Startup routine is pre-programmed.

It's pretty easy though, check voltage off the BACK of the ECM fuse while the key is off. (no, you don't have to pull a fuse to check if it's blown or has power to it) If you've got 12V, the ECM has power.
 
dyeager535 said:
It's pretty easy though, check voltage off the BACK of the ECM fuse while the key is off. (no, you don't have to pull a fuse to check if it's blown or has power to it) If you've got 12V, the ECM has power.
Click to expand...

This is correct, also part of the reason why it takes a second to fire after sitting is because the computer wont fire the injectors until there is enough oil pressure. If my truck sits for a few days it will crank over a few times until the pressure has built up and it fires.
 
Nothing to do with oil pressure.

As a for instance, MAF TPI (IIRC) takes 8 "reference pulses" (ignition firing events) before fuel is even commanded. Change that to 1 or 2, and it will fire like a new car. Not quite sure having almost no oil pressure and a running engine is good, but it can be done, and that is NOT how GM set them up.

The ECM does NOT watch oil pressure, the oil pressure switch is there, and only affects operation, IF the fuel pump relay fails.
 
what about them bushwacker fender flares. you know if they will work with a normal trimmed fenders like the ck5 people do? lol
 
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