jfortner
Registered Member
It sure did take longer than I thought trying to get everything tucked up in the corners when the top was on. But I expect it will hold if the truck ever goes over.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Finally Finished the Cage
- Thread starter jfortner
- Start date
Burt4x4
1 Ton First Gen
Nice..If you have anymore pics don't be shy..what do I see on the inside of your bedsides? Vertical supports?
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
Did you make it yourself? Always cool to see the different styles.
Does the rear seat still fit or are your going to run without it?
I'd guess the side struts are for the panels.
I'd guess the side struts are for the panels.
jfortner
Registered Member
The side struts are for panels. I plan on just using 1/4" plywood or so and covering it with batting and black vinal. Cutting a couple holes in it so that I can use it to store the misc stuff inside the cavity. The right rear has some extra supports for a rear heater to bolt into.
I am going to run five bucket seats in the truck with harnesses. That is part of the reason for the square and rectangular tubing on the floor boards. It allowed me to tie the cage to something solid and gave me a solid base for the seats and I have a good tie point for three of the seats. Two seats up front, one on the ledge between the two front but set back and two in between the rear wheel wells. That is part of what dictated where the bars were mounted.
Yes, it is home made. Not bullet proof but should be good enough for my needs.
I am going to run five bucket seats in the truck with harnesses. That is part of the reason for the square and rectangular tubing on the floor boards. It allowed me to tie the cage to something solid and gave me a solid base for the seats and I have a good tie point for three of the seats. Two seats up front, one on the ledge between the two front but set back and two in between the rear wheel wells. That is part of what dictated where the bars were mounted.
Yes, it is home made. Not bullet proof but should be good enough for my needs.
CDA 455
3/4 ton status
What time do you want me over your house to start on mine ??!!!
Very nice work
.
I like the way you tucked the roll bar in where the A-pillars are
!!
??!!!Very nice work
.I like the way you tucked the roll bar in where the A-pillars are
!!nicely done. Proof even home made low speed cages work.... I got t-boned by a mercedes 3 years back she was doing about 35mph, hit my front bumper and moved my frame over 9 inches, but from the firewall back not so much as a crinkle, (that wasn't there already) any cage is better than no cage- provided it's welded correctly. You'll be able to wheel with confidance with that cage.
swyfor5
Registered Member
Awesome job on the cage!
Wanting to put a cage in my 70 K5 too, but just starting to research the project. This is a stupid question, but what did you mean by it took longer than you thought to tuck it in the corners with the stock top on? Hey I love your idea with the side braces for panels. Have been looking, but have never seen any replacement parts for this area. Any info you could give me would be great! Thank's, later.
Wanting to put a cage in my 70 K5 too, but just starting to research the project. This is a stupid question, but what did you mean by it took longer than you thought to tuck it in the corners with the stock top on? Hey I love your idea with the side braces for panels. Have been looking, but have never seen any replacement parts for this area. Any info you could give me would be great! Thank's, later.
jfortner
Registered Member
With the top on the roll bars all touch the top; actually once I was all done there is about 1/8" gap between the bed and top on both sides; I plan on using a metal strip on the inside of the top where it bolts to the bed to distrubite the force across the top and some extra thick foam (right now it has none) to make up for the top being a bit to tall once it was all welded together. The top and back cross braces also are bent to be right up against the top. so the brace you see across the back up high actualy tucks right up in the corner across the back of the hard top. Same with in the front. Basically there is zero clearance between the cage and the top. I wanted as much space inside the cage as I could but wanted to be able to still run the hard top if I wanted. The real quesiton is once I get a soft top will it fit over the cage?
I have occasionally seen side panels for the blazer for sale but they were very costly. Instead I put the braces in and I plan on cutting 1/4 plywood to fit the sides; cut in four rectangles about 4x6 up near the top for the four storage spaces inside it will create. As well as cutouts for the stero speakers. Then covering it with some batting; and some black vinal. Staple it all together and then use the screws with the button type washers to screw it to the bracing I put in. Then I will have some storage spaces as well for those extra things you really need to carry all the time but don't want rolling around (jumper cables, oil, flashlight, gloves, etc.). I figured it would be out of sight and wouldn't be rolling around all the time.
Hope that anwered your questions.
By the way I used 1x2 and 1x1 square tubing to reinforce the floor and give me locations to mount the cage to; and the 1x1 gives me places to mount my seats and seatbelts to. You can see in the first picture the 1x2 that runs across behind the seats ballanced on the center hump. Then going forward beside both doors there is a 1x2 and that is all welded together and the cage welds to the 1x2. Did the same thing across the back of the bed; and then bring that forward to the front spaced correctly for the rear seat mounting.
I have occasionally seen side panels for the blazer for sale but they were very costly. Instead I put the braces in and I plan on cutting 1/4 plywood to fit the sides; cut in four rectangles about 4x6 up near the top for the four storage spaces inside it will create. As well as cutouts for the stero speakers. Then covering it with some batting; and some black vinal. Staple it all together and then use the screws with the button type washers to screw it to the bracing I put in. Then I will have some storage spaces as well for those extra things you really need to carry all the time but don't want rolling around (jumper cables, oil, flashlight, gloves, etc.). I figured it would be out of sight and wouldn't be rolling around all the time.
Hope that anwered your questions.
By the way I used 1x2 and 1x1 square tubing to reinforce the floor and give me locations to mount the cage to; and the 1x1 gives me places to mount my seats and seatbelts to. You can see in the first picture the 1x2 that runs across behind the seats ballanced on the center hump. Then going forward beside both doors there is a 1x2 and that is all welded together and the cage welds to the 1x2. Did the same thing across the back of the bed; and then bring that forward to the front spaced correctly for the rear seat mounting.
swyfor5
Registered Member
finished the cage
Thank's alot for the info. I am going to design some kind of side panels like your's. Really like that idea. You said you used the tubing to reninforce the floor to mount the cage, did you also mount it to the frame? From your info I can see now that I need to decide what seats, seat mounts, belts, etc. I want to mount in. Wow, another reason for my wife to call this project a deep money pit! Oh well a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do . She'll love it when it's done! Thank's alot for all the help.
Thank's alot for the info. I am going to design some kind of side panels like your's. Really like that idea. You said you used the tubing to reninforce the floor to mount the cage, did you also mount it to the frame? From your info I can see now that I need to decide what seats, seat mounts, belts, etc. I want to mount in. Wow, another reason for my wife to call this project a deep money pit! Oh well a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do . She'll love it when it's done! Thank's alot for all the help.
jfortner
Registered Member
No. I didn't tie it to the frame anywhere. What I decided (right or wrong?) was that by building a base for the cage out of square / rectangular tubing was that I didn't need to tie it into the frame because I had enough bottom support. I kind of look at it this way. The body and frame could be completely seperated and I am still fully enclosed by tubing, and that is what my seats and seatbelts are tied into so all the safety gear would be still attached. And the cage is tied to rectangular tubing that the shortest piece is about 4' so I am not worried about it punching through the sheet metal, which I think is alot of the reason to tie to the frame.
I will try and take some pictures next weekend if I get over to work on it.
I will try and take some pictures next weekend if I get over to work on it.
