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Finally Getting Started!!!!!

B

BB

Registered Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2006
Posts
46
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6
Location
Northern California
In about August 2006 I joined the forum and posted "just getting started on a frame off restoration" (something...something....Blah...Blah...Blah). So I ambitiously made space in my garage and was ready to get started when I got a fantastic job offer and had to change gears for a couple of years........so here it is. The 454 is at the machine shop, and I am prepping the tub for media blasting. This truck is in exceptional condition the only rot I have found is at the bottom of the doors, the seam between the floor pans and the kick panels, and a small amount on the rockers (I am very happy with my purchase).

I have been studying the forum for the past couple of months and I feel pretty confident in the direction I am heading with my blazer. Here is the plan:
· Update motor mounts and cross member to 1974 2500 4x4/454
· Move motor mounts forward 1.5 inches
· Install TBI/Wiring from 1989 Suburban
· Install 1” to 2” body lift
· Dana 44 3.73 Posi front diff
· Corporate 14 bolt FF limited slip rear Diff
· Turbo 350
· NP 205
· 33x12.5x16.5 mud terrains mounted on polished Ansen Slot Mags
· ORD rear shackle flip



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I think you should give up now, get a new hobby and give me your address so I can come clean up all your junk out of your garage.:D:p::haha:


That thing is way clean!! I wish I could have started with something close to what you have.

Why the later crossmember? I'd either move the stock crossmember forward or get one from DIY4x4. I think you'll be happier in the end.

The rest of the combination sounds real nice. Let me know if you need any help on the TBI wiring, I've done several and could possibly save you some time and frustration.

You'll be happier if you keep the body lift at 1'' not 2''.

The old school wheels should look good. With that much lift you may want to go with 35s.

What color(s)?
 
Sure sounds like a good plan you have formulated. Nothing like life getting in the way of a planned project - is happening to me for the last 11 months.

Keep us posted on your progress.
 
Welcome back!!!!
My 72 sat for almost 4 years before I started it again.

You may want to consider finding a new door. I have heard that no matter what you do the hinge portion cannot be repaired to last.

Don't forget to take lots of pics to show us the progress.
 
I like your plan but if your going to make it a daily driver with the top on - I'd skip the shackle flip. Rear steer isn't as cool as it sounds.
 
Thanks for the offer to clean my garage, my wife would be all for it:):):). I decided on the later model engine mount for a couple of reasons: it just seems to be a better sturdier design IMO, oil pan clearance, and I already have it sitting on the floor of my garage :) all that being said I don't know that I really know all the pros and cons.

I am very happy about the overall condition of the truck. I spent the better part of three days carefully disassembling bagging and labeling parts. Out of all of the hundreds of fasteners I broke two bolts, drilled out one bolt, and drilled out two sheet metal screws.

I will definitely take you up on your offer for advice on the TBI when I get to that point.
 
NV_K5 said:
I'd skip the shackle flip. Rear steer isn't as cool as it sounds.
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The truck is going to be occasionally driven and lightly wheeled in snow and on logging roads, definitely more of a pavement pounder. I would like to stick with 33’s because of the 3.73 gears and better sidewall support…….. so I don’t want to lift the truck more than about 4 inches total body/suspension. The only reason I want to lift the body is for valve cover clearance at the firewall.

Maybe I’ll skip the shackle flip and look into 2.5 inches of suspension and one inch of body lift (drivability is very important to me).

What is the issue with “rear steer” in regards to the shackle flip?


Thanks
 
I think his comment is that the shackleflip will soften the rear suspension considerably... it's good for offroad flex, but might be more than you want for street driving. Running around with a factory hardtop puts about 350 pounds over that axle too, which might make it feel even more "loose" around corners.

Personally, I've driven thousands of miles with a shackleflip and didn't mind all that much. Soft springs definitely make for a nice ride in a straight line, but in the turns you really feel the body lean and sluggishness of having such a heavy truck. Swaybars would help a lot, but of course everyone is in a big ol' rush to take those off and throw them away.


:usaflag:
 
I always wish I could drive in these trucks people say are too flexy for the street. I've got a shackel flip on mine, and it still feels like I'm driving a go-cart with no suspension on the back. And I've got the supposedly EZ-ride 2" lift springs.

You could probably get a 2" spring lift for the front and do a shackle flip in the rear. With the hardtop on, that would net you about 3-4" in the rear so it'll be close to level with the front at 2".
 
Give me a call - especially since it's winter and I have the top on. But you better hurry because I got some re-arched add-a-leaf/overload springs and new U-bolts so I may be on the mend.

I'd Also like to appologize for highjacking your thread...

Welcome back and best of luck on your build.
 
Cool Ya’ll thanks much for the input!!!!!

Any more opinions on the 1974 cross member/motor mount set up?

I will post some more pics as the chassis starts coming together.

 
Good:
They use the later motor mounts

A little better header clearance

Easy to find/ you already have one

More oil pan clearance


Bad:
It isn't first gen original (I'm funny that way)

No clearance for crossover steering

Not as strong/doesn't support the frame as well as the original or a DIY.
 
A Few New Photos

I sent the frame out for powder coating and picked it up a couple of weeks ago..........man did it turn out nice. I hauled the tub down to the body shop for an estimate on the bodywork..........ouch………… I ended up bringing it back home. That part of the build is going to have to wait a while. I might try to do some myself to cut down on the cost.

I got all the bodywork done on my doors, fenders, and tailgate. The body shop I’m using sent all the parts out for media blasting and absolutely destroyed my hood, warping it into a piece of……………….(modern art maybe). They are currently in the market for a replacement. The sad part is my original hood was perfect with the exception of chicken wire cracking in the original paint.

I’m now focused on building the chassis and suspension. I bought a shackle flip kit and engine mount kit from DIY. I bought A sway bar disconnect kit, and greaseable bushings and bolts from ORD. I fab’d up some sway bar mounts using parts from my donor truck. I did test fit of the big block and a set of Sanderson headers prior to the powder coating……….had to trim the frame a little, not too much though.

Progress is slow…………… but progress is progress. I should have the chassis together within the next few months.

I’ll post some more pics soon.


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Wow. Frame looks spectacular.

btw...love the Home Depot Kid apron!
 
Where in Northern, CA are you?

The frame, diffs, springs and hardware look too nice. What did the body shop quote you? Mine has a lot more rust and I am curious what I would be looking at price wise.
 
NorCalTank said:
Where in Northern, CA are you?

The frame, diffs, springs and hardware look too nice. What did the body shop quote you? Mine has a lot more rust and I am curious what I would be looking at price wise.
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I live in the SF Bay Area.

I took my laptop to the body shop and showed him detailed photos of the worst areas. He said, "Around two thousand for media blasting and the metal work, but I'll have to see it." I figured when he saw it the price would go up $500.00 to $1,000.00. I loaded it on the trailer, drove the 50 miles to his shop, unloaded it, and he called me three days later with a quote. He said, "I got your estimate ready, you’re looking at 100 hours at $95.00 an hour." I said without hesitation, "I will be right down to pick it up."

I'm not really sure how the estimate based on photos got multiplied by five when he saw the tub in person, maybe some lack of communication. I was disappointed because I really like the work he did on my doors, fenders, and tailgate (not so happy about the hood).

I'm not in a big hurry so I'll figure out a way to get it done more affordably.
 
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