Finally got the burb moving!*pics*

[y5mgisi]

After owning it sence last september i finally got it all done well sorta. I did drive it up and down the road. Since ive ownd it ive done 4"lift 3/4ton swap, carpet and new dash, swaped in a 500 caddy motor and some other stuff. The 500 caddy motor seems pretty nice way more power than my stockish 90 burb. Im so happy to finally say i can drive it. its been along time coming. Should have pics this weekend
Allthough none of the pics show it moving, i did drive it to where its parked now..

 

[y5mgisi]

More..

 

[y5mgisi]

more...and some pics of my 90

 

[stockk5]

grrrrr im poor.. sounds sweet though

 

[y5mgisi]

hey man i'll email you some pics if you want.

 

[cbbr]

Nice custom paint work on the accumulator.

 

[SUBFAN]

Sweet!!!! Tie up them plug wires or carry spares....

 

[diesel4me]

Caddy motor looks right at home!

That is sweet!...looks like a factory installation!...did you use a rear sump oilpan?--it appears to be a front sump from what I can see in the picture...I nearly put my 500 in my 79 C10 when its Camelhumper 6 blew a piston last year.but I didn't have money enough for a rear sump pan and oil pump--so I found a decent 305 and put that in instead..the 500 belongs in a 1 ton more than a smaller truck in my estimation....

I've met a few guys with caddy motors in their GM trucks,and they said they used the front sump pan with no problem! --but their motors sat pretty high up in the engine compartment,and I wondered if they have vibrations from the angles being "off" that much compared to a stock setup...their installation looked a bit "hack" but they were driving the trucks and burning the tires off them,so I suppose it cant be that bad!..

 

[y5mgisi]

Thanks for the coments...And my little brother did the art work on the acumulator but oh well. I have a 4" lift on it and the pan is about 4" from the axel at the point where they are closest to eachother. The bumpstops are are about 5 1/2"from the pads if i remember right. So FOR NOW, im just going to lower my bums down alittle, untill i can get the rear sump pan and pump.I figure that even if the pumpkin came up and hit the pan and went an inch into it the worst that would happen is it would dent it and maybey give a bad oil leak. But hopefully that wont happen. I still have to make the crossmember between the two mountsthat will end up looking somthing like the picture below.

Do youguys think that without the crossmember the mounts would be stroung enough to floor the motor and not wory about them breaking? Im going to put it in anyway but does the design look strong enough?

 

[diesel4me]

lotsa tork..

Your mounts look pretty beefy,they will live--but it would be a good idea to tie them together like your cad drawing shows,it will keep the torque from flexing the frame rails..the caddy has a lot of torque,and could rip things loose,or twist the frame rail some!...

My 74 K20 only had the motor mount frame brackets,no "crossmember" and I'm not sure if someone removed it,or if it never had one(all my other trucks had one,so I assume someone ditched it when they dropped the oilpan before I got the truck)...for what its worth,I plowed and beat the snot out of that truck with a 454 and a 400 small block,and I never had any motor mount or other problems...but a 500 caddy motor might not be the same story.....

I figured you could get away with the front or mid-sump pan on a 4x4 GM truck by doing like you say,just extend the bump stops so the springs bottom out before the axle can touch the oilpan..but a 2wd crossmember is a lot closer--like I said the other guys just used "tall" motor mounts and let the motor sit at an angle,they claim their trucks drive ok..but I havent been in any of them for a ride..I'm betting it grumbles like a cement mixer on the highway,the way they set the motor in...but I might be wrong..