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First brake job... Going Back Together

fireplug

fireplug

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I'm about to do the front brakes on my D44 ('76 Blazer) for the first time. I've done 2wd before so should be fun.

My truck is my only set of wheels right now so I'm trying to compile everything I need before getting into the job.

I am replacing the rotors as well as disks. And since I don't know how to ID a bearing gone bad I'll do those as well.

I'm trying to read everything I can find but of course there are always discrepancies so I'm left with a few Q's...

I can punch out the studs with a hammer is there any technique to this? Do I do this while it is still on the truck?

There is a seal behind the inner bearing I've only seen it refered to twice once in a diagram and once in a write up. In the write up is said the seal needs to be replaced. This part number was in the CK5 thread 471271 would this be the right thing? Any idea what company this part number applies to?

So I've got the inner and outer bearings and races, grease and a bearing greaser thingie and bearing tool. The disks and rotors. And a hub removal tool and a torque wrench. Am I missing anything?

Any good how to threads out there?

Thanks guys.
 
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Wheel studs: I put the disc on my bench with a spacer of some sort under the stud I'm removing. Take a lug nut and run it on the stud until just before the stud sticks through. Hit the lug nut with a brass hammer, or use a chunk of wood between nut and regular hammer. They usually don't take too much, but not always.
 
As for the studs, I don't think they'll go all the way out unless they are off. Use a big hammer and have fun...

Make sure to get new pads to go with the new rotors. The part numbers have likely changed as they update parts frequently.
 
Have you replaced bearings before? The races can be a little tricky to get out and back in straight without the right punches. You just have to be careful and make sure they are in straight and not damaged. Same thing with installing the big seals without a seal driver. I use a good sized brass punch (drift) and slowly work my way around the outside driving it in.
I've also use a piece of 2x4 to get them started straight. Just look out for wood chipping off and falling in grease. (not good)

You'll have the inner and outer wheel bearings and races. Then the inner seal. There is also a spindle bearing and seal. I've always seen them come together as a kit. (bearing and seal) The spindle bearing is different from the wheel bearings in that is does not have a race that it rides in. And of course, it goes in the spindle and not the hub.

Once you start taking it all apart, it will make sence.

The wheel bearings are some of the more expensive pieces. Compare your new to the old and look for heat discoloration,(light discoloration is normal), rough running, pits,...basically damage. If not damaged, save yourself the time and money.
 
Been thinking about your project, not so sure you have to drive out the studs to change rotors on a D44.
 
if i were you, i'd just have the machine shop press out and in the old and new bearing, races, seals, etc. i copied a ball joint article from someone else a while back. search my name and ball joints and it will really help you get that thing taken care of. don't forget the lock-ring pliers - they can be a pita if you don't have one of those. :)
 
Hey guys thanks for the responses!

Goose said:
Have you replaced bearings before?
Click to expand...
I have just not on our trucks. I do have a bearing and seal driver though.

Goose said:
Then the inner seal.
Click to expand...
This is the one I'm trying to get a part number for.

Goose said:
There is also a spindle bearing and seal. I've always seen them come together as a kit. (bearing and seal) The spindle bearing is different from the wheel bearings in that is does not have a race that it rides in. And of course, it goes in the spindle and not the hub.
Click to expand...

I don't see this in any of the diagrams I have found will I get into this during the work I proposed? :confused:

Goose said:
The wheel bearings are some of the more expensive pieces. Compare your new to the old and look for heat discoloration,(light discoloration is normal), rough running, pits,...basically damage. If not damaged, save yourself the time and money.
Click to expand...
That's a good idea, I'll try and compare maybe I can learn the differences.
 
colbystephens said:
if i were you, i'd just have the machine shop press out and in the old and new bearing, races, seals, etc. i copied a ball joint article from someone else a while back. search my name and ball joints and it will really help you get that thing taken care of. don't forget the lock-ring pliers - they can be a pita if you don't have one of those. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks man. Is this the article you mean?

[FONT=&quot]http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthr...ght=ball+joint[/FONT]
 
that is the article i'm referring to, except that in my format, i made it easier to read and added a couple small things that i found would make it easier. i'll see if i can't pull it up. :)
 
Goose said:
Been thinking about your project, not so sure you have to drive out the studs to change rotors on a D44.
Click to expand...
No, you do have to remove the wheel studs to get the disk off the hub.
Its easy though if you have open end lug nuts (8 lug factory style) you just spin the nut on about 75% of the way, then smack the nut with a good hammer (repeat as necessary) and then move on to the next stud.

ive actually driven out studs with just a hammer before without damaging them, but better safe than sorry and studs are expensive

As for the seal that you are looking for: just go to your local parts store and ask for "front wheel seals", they will get you the right parts
 
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mechted said:
No, you do have to remove the wheel studs to get the disk off the hub.
Click to expand...

Wow I really thought I had to. Thanks guys. I'll do the pads and rotors and then I'll do the bearing and seals in a couple of days. :D


mechted said:
As for the seal that you are looking for: just go to your local parts store and ask for "front wheel seals", they will get you the right parts
Click to expand...

You'd think so! They all tell me they don't know what I'm talking about. The Napa guy said "I've been here longer than anybody so if I've never seen them we don't sell them" :doah::haha:
 
This should be the seal

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NOS&PartNumber=24898&Description=Wheel+Seal+-+Front+Wheel

As for the bearing races. If you have a race/seal driver, better check to see if the driver fits our truck bearings. I have one but its made for cars bearings/seals, and does not work for our trucks. I just use a punch to drive out the bearing races. Same for install, you just have too be mighty careful.

Do you have a spindle nut socket? If not, you gonna need one. Makes life easier. And there's a ring that holds the hub mechanism in. It rides in a groove in the hub. The best tool I've found to get this sucker out is a tiny flat blade. The ones for eye glasses repair work good.

Other than that, what you want to do is pretty simple.
 
86dieselburb said:
This should be the seal

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NOS&PartNumber=24898&Description=Wheel+Seal+-+Front+Wheel

As for the bearing races. If you have a race/seal driver, better check to see if the driver fits our truck bearings. I have one but its made for cars bearings/seals, and does not work for our trucks. I just use a punch to drive out the bearing races. Same for install, you just have too be mighty careful.

Do you have a spindle nut socket? If not, you gonna need one. Makes life easier. And there's a ring that holds the hub mechanism in. It rides in a groove in the hub. The best tool I've found to get this sucker out is a tiny flat blade. The ones for eye glasses repair work good.

Other than that, what you want to do is pretty simple.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the lead on the seal. I don't know what year my front end is so I just told them '76 and apparently it is a different part for 76 - 78? So I guess there will still be a hit or miss scenario when I get it all apart.

I do have a spindle nut socket thanks! And good point on the driver I'll have to check that.
 
Ok well I'm into it.

I can't seem to separate the hub from the rotor. I removed the studs despite the earlier advice, just in case, but still I can't get them apart.

Any ideas? :confused:
 
hit it with a hammer
if all the studs are out, its just rusted together
 
Prolly just rusted together. Spray with WD-40 or something similar.
Try laying it on something sturdy, like garage floor. Put a 2x4 or similar over the hub face so you don't damage it and use a bigger hammer.
If you have access to a torch, heat around the hub/rotor area.
 
Got it off! Bearings look good, but the race, I believe it was the outer has a single score across the width of the race. So I guess I'll replace those.

And good guess about the seal/bearing driver 86dieselburb mine is too small :mad:

So I'm at a standstill now as I got the wrong inner bearing and just ordered the front wheel seals, thanks again 86dieselburb :bow:

I'm not going to tear into the other side until this one is finished.

By the way I'll be sure to do a complete write up when I'm finished, it seems as though plenty exists for the D60, and everything for the D44 is scattered across the interweb.

Oh and aside from trying to find the right seal/bearing driver I understand I can use a section of pipe? And tips or hints or sizes to use? I don't know where I'd even find the right sizes and get them home now anyway, I'll probably end up taking everything to a shop to finish. :mad:
 
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