First gen hidden rock sliders

[bp71k5]

So after my last outing, it's apparent I need some rock sliders. Has anyone tried integrating them into the rocker area so they aren't visible from the outside? One other idea was to fab my own steel outer rocker cover from 1/8" DOM and plate so it looks just like the outer rocker, but obviously beefier.

I'm just looking at other options that are more subtle than the typical bars or steps.

 

[Greg72]

A large diameter tube sliced lengthwise would be a good start to an outer rocker "cover"..... I've always like the idea of a double-laminated slider setup where the outer plate could be unbolted and replaced when it got really beat up. Plus you don't have to add the weight of two complete pieces of tube....you reinforce only the most critical areas (bottom and outside edge).

The toughest challenge (as you know) is figuring out a sensible mounting scheme that works with/around the torsion boxes underneath. It might be easier and stronger to tie the slider to some extensions off the rollage.

 

[mr_blasto]

Use stealth paint ! Sounds like it would be pretty cool if you got something like that going, but they don't seem terribly noticeable when they are painted black. Without being under my truck, isn't there a little lip between the torsion boxes and the outer most edge of the body? If your torsion boxes are really solid, could you just weld some really thick plate to the bottom of them just inside that lip? Might be a terrible idea, but it seems to me like it could work.

 

[bp71k5]

At this point, I don't mind cutting the rocker boxes. One is damaged enough that it makes sense to try and replace some of it so it can be tied into the cage. Hmmm...

 

[70jimmy]

Some 2 X 3 thick wall rectangular where the rocker's are, remove the boxes, tie into frame and cage. Like mine without the round tube that extends out. Mine sit below the rockers but you get the idea.

 

[Big Blzn]

You did it again with another pic of your 'cage........Just got another boner.

 

[bp71k5]

Some 2 X 3 thick wall rectangular where the rocker's are, remove the boxes, tie into frame and cage. Like mine without the round tube that extends out. Mine sit below the rockers but you get the idea.

That's actually a pretty simple design that could work. I guess one question might be whether hiding them too much defeats the purpose? Do those round tube portions see a lot of abuse that I would want protect against?

 

[Greg72]

Brian,

The outboard tubes are actually not so much for rocks down low, as they are for trees or obstacles much higher.

If you were wheeling off-camber and got up against a tree the only thing saving your quarterpanels is the fact that the slider gives you clearance.....otherwise you're doomed.

If you don't like the "look" of the tubular rock slider, the only other option is to make them retractable like I was planning to do.

 

[bp71k5]

If you were wheeling off-camber and got up against a tree the only thing saving your quarterpanels is the fact that the slider gives you clearance.....otherwise you're doomed.

Yea, I'm starting to see how that could happen. I will be rethinking my options now.

 

[jtrux]

It would be nice to have something protruding away from the rocker a bit as previously mentioned to have a little cushion against obstacles. I wish I would of had em on my jeep this last outing. Now my DD is starting to look like a trail rig.

 

[70jimmy]

Yep the round part has protected the shiny stuff more than once, also helps with getting in at least once I put the grip tape on it.

 

[bp71k5]

What about the issue of bolting to the body or the frame? I'd like to keep the body separate from the frame for now so I guess I could replace my squished rocker box area with square tube and then attach some sliders to that. I'm thinking of giving up the "hidden" idea since I'd rather not fix any more damage to the door or panels.

 

[Greg72]

Brian,

Both the body AND the frame. You have to use the frame because of the strength required. If you get the weight of the Blazer teetering on the rock slider you're not going to support that with sheetmetal.

By "body" I mean a bushing'ed connection from the rollcage a-pillar and b-pillar areas. I can't recall if you used poly or rubber bodymounts but use the same material in the bar that connects the rockslider up to the underside of those cage plates. You'll maintain the ability of the body to move independent of the frame (unless you're cage is already tied into the frame? ) but you'll gain the compressive strength of having some bars there. An unsupported rockslider bolted only to the frame has HUGE leverage to tear things apart. Those short vertical stubs of DOM to the cage will eliminate that problem.

If you peek at the truck from a pure side-view, you'll see that the frame is lower than the pinch seam under the outer rocker. You should be able to come out with a set of sliders and end up no lower than the frame already is. If you wanted to get "fancy" you could remove the pinch seam and tuck the sliders up another 1/2" to 3/4" or so. Even with a really strong, supported set of sliders I'd still try to leave a gap between them and the body of maybe 1/2" or more. If you have a bad day on the trail and bend those sliders somehow, you don't want to be jamming them up into the rocker and doing even more damage....plus it will be easier to hose out mud or whatever if you have a small gap there.

 

[bp71k5]

If you get the weight of the Blazer teetering on the rock slider you're not going to support that with sheetmetal

Actually, I was concerned about putting that kind of leverage on the frame by extending some tube out 18" away. Or are you saying to do something like 70jimmy where the slider is tied into the cage and the frame?

Maybe my earlier plan isn't a great idea, but I was planning on replacing all the body mount bolts with 5/8" grade 8 hardware and then tie the sliders, the cage supports, and the body together ABOVE the stock body bushing locations. The nice thing about that idea was that I could rigidize the sheetmetal on the body where needed and then strengthen the connection of the body to the frame beyond the grade 2 3/8" body mounting bolts.

 

[Greg72]

Yeah, the black vertical pieces in 70Jimmy's photos are what take the loads when you're balanced on a rock.

Given the choice, I'd definitely combine the cage / frame / sliders as a complete system before I used anything sheetmetal-related as a support for the sliders.