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First Generation engine crossmember

RGV72BLAZER said:
hey Kert, had some trouble getting the darn thing into my Gen1. let me rephrase, it was a PITA. lol. my buddy broke one of the bolts in the block when he was tightening it, so we're going to put some tack welds in it, you see any problem with this or should i pull the motor out again and fix the broking bolt? also there's very little clearance under the oil pan and on one part is even making contact, may be a crooked pan but doubt it. any thoughts?? thanks.
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Are you talking about tack welding the bolt in? Is it tight? or not able to tighten?

Can you shoot a photo of where you have pan contact? Nobody else has reported any problems as of yet.

Dozen or so of these out there all coming off the same fixture so we'll see. Actually you got the proto crossmember that was assembled on the rig and the first one off the fixture went back in the rig to qualify the fixture.
 
cybrfire said:
Are you talking about tack welding the bolt in? Is it tight? or not able to tighten?

Can you shoot a photo of where you have pan contact? Nobody else has reported any problems as of yet.

Dozen or so of these out there all coming off the same fixture so we'll see. Actually you got the proto crossmember that was assembled on the rig and the first one off the fixture went back in the rig to qualify the fixture.
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the bolt is broking as seen in the pic:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40951&stc=1&d=1172024247

i'll get a pic of the pan when i get back into town. thanks Kert. :D
 
The broken bolt needs to be removed imo. No telling how many threads are in the block, if its cross-threaded, etc.
 
Were the bolts too long?


Also, I have a Hamburger 7 quart road race pan on my motor, will this crossmember clear?
 
garlicbreath said:
Were the bolts too long?


Also, I have a Hamburger 7 quart road race pan on my motor, will this crossmember clear?
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Bolts should be 1" long. Subtract 1/4" for the motor mount, leaves you 3/4" of thread engagement into the block. Should be just right provided your block wasn't tapped short. i.e. the upper bolts in the picture are in. If the lower hole was not tapped as deep there would be an issue. I've seen stranger things so it is entirely possible.

No idea if it will clear your 7 quart pan. I would have to say I doubt it. Depending on the shape of the pan ahead of the sump it is possible. The crossmember hugs the pan very tight. Some pan massaging could be done or if you wanted. I could also leave the crossmember loose from the side mounting plates and it could be adjusted lower and welded on in the chassis.
 
Hey Kert, I got my first gen crossmember the other day and it looks great. I'm going to have to get that old I6 and 4sp out of my 67. Then i can install your crossmember and my 468, Th400, and 205. Thanks again Jason

PS. Please let me know if you get the 2nd gen crossmembers ready. I think that would be much better then the stock one holding my 511 BBC in my mud truck. Jason
 
Any chance of doing a set up for 2nd gen wtih caddy 500's? That would be awsome. If you start makeing those i will buy one the day they are put up for sale!
 
2nd gen ones aren't far off!

Caddy one is doable. I have a pretty good idea how I'd do it. Just did one for my 2wd conversion in the crew cab.
 
I see your website said there was a change on these. Any info? I just got one from another guy that ended up scrapping the project and wanna make sure it will work. My engine is a 454 from an 82 3/4 ton 2wd pickup and still using the stock oil pan.
 
MNorby said:
I see your website said there was a change on these. Any info? I just got one from another guy that ended up scrapping the project and wanna make sure it will work. My engine is a 454 from an 82 3/4 ton 2wd pickup and still using the stock oil pan.
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We put some seperation flanges in the crossmember tube itself. This way the tube can be dropped to gain access to the pan. Also gained us a little extra clearance around the pan for some of the big block swaps. Not too say that all big block pans will clear.
 
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