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First Impressions of Hydroboost

broc944

broc944

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 23, 2005
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Location
Northern Minnesota
Just went for my first test drive after installing my Hydratech Level III Hydroboost. I hoped my braking would improve somewhat, really did not get my hopes way up, I just wanted some good braking.

What I just experienced is beyond my wildest expectations. I have a manual proportioning valve in the cab for the rear brakes, I had it set in the middle, tire pressure on all four is 18psi, at 55mph, I locked the front up.

Opened the prop valve fully open, tried it again at 60mph, this time all wheels locked up, what was not tied down went flying, including my full cup of tea.

This mod although expensive, is totally worth it. I can not believe this system can work so well. I will be installing 39.5 Boggers next month, and have no doubt I will be able lock them up also.

HPIM0921.JPG

I have front and rear line locks. Those are the gold colored cylinders mounted on the inner fender.

HPIM0924.JPG

This pic you can see how I ran the lines to the proportioning valve through the firewall.

HPIM0925.JPG

Getting rid of the old vacuum booster was a added bonus to the hydroboost.

HPIM0921.JPG

HPIM0924.JPG

HPIM0925.JPG
 
I put hydro boost on my Blazer last week and the improvement is nothing short of incredible. With the vacuum booster it wouldn't lock up the front brakes on dirt using both feet, but now it locks up the rear tires on pavement without even trying, in fact I had to turn the prop valve down quite a bit.
Hydro boost can be done a little cheaper with some simple fabrication. I'm in to mine about $350 with all new parts except the booster which is reman. My dad did his for just over $100 by using used parts and having new lines made.
 
I've got some 39's on beadlocks all ready to go. Got a set of TSL's I might want? :p:
 
Nope, I am going with internal beadlocks anyway, was worth a try asking though. You want to seperate the tires from the rims?
 
Sorry, if I sold 'em and bought new stuff now, I'd run 16.5's on hummers so if they go, they're gonna go as a unit. You gonna run Stauns?

End of hijack.
 
Yep, looking for the best price right now, I like the idea of the design locking both beads, and no lock ring to collect mud.
 
Let me know what you come up with. I want a double lock if/when I go to different tires...and by the time you rework hummer rims they get spendy.
 
Internals are not as expensive as I thought, I had to get wider rims anyway. The only downside, if you want to call it a downside is that you do not get the beadlock look.
 
Vac sucks...:D

I got hydroboost when the 6.2 went in which was also when the 40's went on. I was amazed to have better braking on the 40's than i ever did on the old 36's (with vac brakes)

Rene
 
You two stop all this bragging. I have enough stuff to fix before my junk goes back together, I don't want to add another thing to the list. :mad:
 
Damn I just went through my ENTIRE break system and am only half happy with the outcome... Maybe I need hydro boost too... Now all I gotta do is sell a kidney or two...

~Brian
 
Got a quick hijack. My old MC looked just like that and the lines where set up the same way. I put HB on and changed the MC. The new MC had the large line on the rear and the small line on the front so that is how I put mine. Is this backwards? Could this be why my rears lock up and pulse but the front does not? Also it feels as if the front is dragging is there a residual valve in the MC for the drums?


Ira
 
I don't know about all the people jumping on the hydroboost bandwagon. I have one tons with the stock master cylinder and couldn't imagine the brakes needing any more power. I can lock up all 4 wheels at any speed with fairly minimal pedal effort (not standing on the pedal). I think some people vouch for the benefits of hydroboost when their sub-par vacuum setup was the issue. Who knows if my experience is rare or not, just throwing it out there :dunno:
 
After rebuilding my stock stuff a couple of years ago, I wasn't really happy with the braking power. So, I switched to hydroboost. Theres no going back for me.

Although, now as I prepare to install a hydro-assist steering set up, I worry that I could have some problems.
 
how much was it for ur aftermarket set up broc? im swappin in a 6.2 soon so im going hydroboost anyways. seein the other options as well :)
 
I just grabbed a complete setup from an 80's Chevy diesel plus the master cyl from a mid 90s diesel for $10. I haven't installed it yet but will let you know when I do. My vac brakes are OK and I could stay with them but getting rid of the booster helps to un-crowd the engine bay. If you go the used route make sure you get a complete system including the pedal assembly to ensure proper geometry.
 
broc944 - looks like a great setup you are using. I put a hydroboost setup and hydraulic clutch from a 1989 1 ton on my 69 K20. I had manual brakes so my level of improvement was dramatic. Your setup sure looks clean.
 
On the factory setups, is the pedal assembly different between vac brakes & hydroboost?

Also, are the brake calipers/wheel cylinders the same between the hydroboost & non-hydroboost trucks?
 
This is my first install and I haven't done it yet; but I'm told (by mouse) that the geometry is different at the pedal. Mouse will be checking this later tonight and he will chime in I'm sure.

I wouldn't think the calipers would be any different between vac and juice; hydraulic pressure looks the same to a brake caliper. Maybe someone else has more info.
 
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