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first post in 7 years!!

T

t3ok2

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Wilmington NC
after a scary ride home my blazer died in the driveway, and now the starter doesnt turn over nor does the fuel pump prime. no dash lights either. pretty much everything that requires the key to be turned on doesnt work. the headlights and interior lights to turn on and the battery does show a full 12.7 i was wondering just what could be keep in the starter, fuel pump and blower motor from getting power?
 
So you have been milking TONS AND TONS of helpful info for seven years and not once offered up ANY help to others, now YOU want some help?!?!?!?


You aughta be ashamed of yourself! :mad: :haha:
 
And further more you owe the entire ck5 comunity an apology for not contributing! :D
 
up until now i had believed that my K5 was invincible to all problems 340,000 miles and it still doesnt use oil!!! i signed up for the site and have browsed it from time to time but i have been way to busy enjoying and wheeling my K5 to ever stay on the computer long. but last summer a lady pulled out in front of me and ruined my perfect K5 and since then i have replaced the entire suspension, frame, front axle, all steering components, transfer case, and a good amount of the floor. well after having my blazer apart for the past 5 months i am having a few issues with it all back together.

My deepest apologies to the K5er community and im now pleading for some help :bow:
 
Well since you're pleading for help start by looking/testing the fusible link down by the starter. When that link blows you lose everyhting related to the ignition switch.
 
i just tested the fusible link at the starter and the one that is on the firewall behind the cruise with my multimeter and its getting somekind of connection. is there a chance that they are passing current just not enough? i did replace the ignition switch too
 
It is possible but kind of unlikely. I am assuming, since you said everything ignition related, that nothing works in the truck, dome lights and everything are out, right?

If so, I would suspect fusible link above all else. If anything is working it is possible you are getting some juice through the link but not enough to power anything high draw like the fuel pump.
 
a fusible link is very possible but before i replace those today what else could be keeping my electronics from working. All the lights, and horn work. Everything that requires the ignition switch to be on isnt working. I replaced the ignition switch last night. what are the symptoms of a bad neutral safety switch?
 
Bad nuetral safety is just no starter engaement. Everything else would work normally.

Rene
 
How did you hook up the leads to test the link?
Try it this way.

Turn on the ignition switch, and everything you can that should come on but won't.
Measure across the battery terminals just for fun and make sure you have 12V.

Then, with everything turned on, and the meter set for measuring 12V, put the leads across the fusible link.
In other words, measure from one side to the other.
You should see 0 volts, or maybe a couple of millivolts.

More than that, and the link is either bad, or has a bad connection.
If you have enough lead length, try measuring from the positive terminal of the battery to the other side of the link with everything turned on.

If you find several volts, then you have a bad connection between the two leads. Just move them closer to each other until you isolate the connection.

This is called testing for voltage drop, and is a much more accurate way to find a bad connection than measuring from a hot wire to ground.

Note: This method only works when there is a load on the connection.

Measuring from a hot wire to ground, only tells you that there is voltage present. Not if there is a good enough connection to supply the amps necessary to run the equipment.

J.
 
i just went back out and measured at a few places with the ignition turned on. i know this might be a dumb question but if the solinod is bad then would that keep my fuel pump from getting power?

so far
Horn works!! awesome
headlights
brake lights
interior lights all work
even the analog dash clock works
and my 12v cig lighter too

starter is not engaging
fuel pump is not priming \
and with the key on nonb of the dash lights are working

:doah:
 
Fuel pump should run for a few seconds, but then if there is no oil pressure it'll shut off.

Rene
 
i turned the key on and jumped the positive terminal of the battery to the distribution block on the firewall and got the fuel pump to prime. so i figured that something between the battery and the distribution block was to blame.

-replaced the starter - pump now primes with key

-the dash lights are now working

-the starter still does not engage (it acts as if the battery is weak when i try to start the truck i can hear a slight click in the solinod)

-tried to jump the truck off with another vehicle just for kicks and it still is making the slight click noise

-the battery is still showing a full charge also
 
Might be a bad cable from the batt to the engine (ground) or the pos to the starter itself then.

Rene
 
t3ok2 said:
up until now i had believed that my K5 was invincible to all problems 340,000 miles and it still doesnt use oil!!! i signed up for the site and have browsed it from time to time but i have been way to busy enjoying and wheeling my K5 to ever stay on the computer long. but last summer a lady pulled out in front of me and ruined my perfect K5 and since then i have replaced the entire suspension, frame, front axle, all steering components, transfer case, and a good amount of the floor. well after having my blazer apart for the past 5 months i am having a few issues with it all back together.

My deepest apologies to the K5er community and im now pleading for some help :bow:
Click to expand...



THANK YOU! :D That SUCKS big time your having trouble, wish I could help but electrical and I DON"T get along at all. I was just giving ya a hard time all in fun. Hope you get the help & info you need to fix your rig. I wish I had the time to take an automotive class just for the electrical end of it.
 
I'm pretty sure you've blown the fusible link.

On the firewall to the Left of the booster. (looking towards firewall from the grille)
Check the poles on that strange looking connector for power, if there is none there then the fusible link blew.
 
thanks to everyone so far for all your help the truck is almost itself again

well i replaced the starter and the fusible links and the truck started up!!! it ran fine for about a day.

i got in it to start it after welding up the new exhaust (i did diconnect the battery before welding)

- turned the key on and the fuel pump primed but all i got from the starter was a single click (sounded like a weak battery)
- i inspected all my grounds, power wires and fusible links again.
-then i tried to jump the truck off with another truck....... still ust a single click
-tested the battery 12.6v its good

then i got to thinking i have just done a complete frame off on this truck
i rust bulleted the frame and the entire underside of the truck and the entire floor. new body mounts and painted all the parts while off the truck

when i hooked everything back up this is what i have
-battery grounds to frame and the radiator support
-and i have the ground strap for the engine block connected to the firewall
all the connections were ground to bare metal before hooking them up
this is the way my blazer was grounded when i bought it 8 years ago is this enough grounds or did all my painting and rust proofing make it necessary to hook up a battery negative to block cable or a block to frame cable.

and could a bad engine ground cause a starter to go bad?
thanks everyone so far for all your help
 
t3ok2 said:
well i replaced the starter and the fusible links and the truck started up!!! it ran fine for about a day.

i got in it to start it after welding up the new exhaust (i did diconnect the battery before welding)

- turned the key on and the fuel pump primed but all i got from the starter was a single click (sounded like a weak battery)
- i inspected all my grounds, power wires and fusible links again.
-then i tried to jump the truck off with another truck....... still ust a single click
-tested the battery 12.6v its good

then i got to thinking i have just done a complete frame off on this truck
i rust bulleted the frame and the entire underside of the truck and the entire floor. new body mounts and painted all the parts while off the truck

when i hooked everything back up this is what i have
-battery grounds to frame and the radiator support
-and i have the ground strap for the engine block connected to the firewall
all the connections were ground to bare metal before hooking them up
this is the way my blazer was grounded when i bought it 8 years ago is this enough grounds or did all my painting and rust proofing make it necessary to hook up a battery negative to block cable or a block to frame cable.

and could a bad engine ground cause a starter to go bad?
thanks everyone so far for all your help
Click to expand...

The battery MUST ground directly to the engine block since the starter is the largest AMP draw and you cannot rely on a small ground strap from the engine to the firewall to complete the circuit. You do however still need a ground strap from the engine to firewall and also the battery cable should have a small pigtail that needs to be connected to the radiator support.
 
thank you very much 4x4hi i am going to pickup another napa starter in the morning and post results soon afterward. btw where does your battery to block canle run from the factory?
 
t3ok2 said:
thank you very much 4x4hi i am going to pickup another napa starter in the morning and post results soon afterward. btw where does your battery to block canle run from the factory?
Click to expand...

From the negative battery post down to the block where the fuel pump would have bolted to on a carbed rig.
 
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