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First time building 4x4

MarineK5

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Havelock, NC
Im trying to find out where i can get a new yoke for my driveshaft, its the front yoke for the rear driveshaft.
 
I got it fixed I was worried I needed a new one because you could slide the caps in by hand. All the ones i messed with you had to press the caps in, but once i put the clips in it seemed to be secure. It hasnt fell out yet. I wanna get a lift and tires but i dont know what the best and cheapest route to go is. Im in the military so i dont have a whole lot of funds to work with
 
depending on how much lift u want to go with, theres different options. so basically make a plan and ask on here. u should be able to get any answer ull ever need. btw,thanks for serving our country!:bow:
 
X2, thanx for serving! My nephew is a Marine and also down there in NC too.

It all depends on what you want to do with the truck. How you want to use it. Sometimes you can find used lift parts if your budget is like mine. Used tires and wheels too. You just need to have patience in looking for the items you want. You could start simple and just throw a set of 33s on there with the stock suspension and wheel it like that for a while. You'll be surprised how well a stock K5 will wheel with just some larger tires.
 
My truck has a body lift on it now that I wanna take off cause I dont like the gaps in between the bumpers. But I was thinking about putting 40s on it. Will leafs off 3/4 and 1 ton trucks lift my blazer or is there any difference other than the amount of leafs?
 
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u can put 3/4 and 1 ton leaves on ur truck. but 1 ton leaves require some different suspension parts. also they would be very stiff and im sure u wouldnt like it. i would get lift springs. dont get "rough country" they have very stiff springs. but "tuff country" EZ-rides have a soft ride u would be happy with.
 
I think the most popular is 56s in the rear with a shackle flip, and move the 52s to the front. Add a zero rate where needed, maybe a one inch body lift, and trim fenders. You'll fit 40's no problem, and still have lots of flex.

Its a whole lot cheaper if you just move to this plan from the beginning.:doah:
 
I think the most popular is 56s in the rear with a shackle flip, and move the 52s to the front. Add a zero rate where needed, maybe a one inch body lift, and trim fenders. You'll fit 40's no problem, and still have lots of flex.

Its a whole lot cheaper if you just move to this plan from the beginning.:doah:

Then when you realize that 52's have serious approach angle problems, axle wrap problems and spring life problems you'll realize you really need links and coils :doah:

The kicker with 52's is that you will absolutely need crossover steering (which can be $400+) and they are far from a perfect answer.

On my 4th set of 52" fronts and can't wait to get rid of them, wish I would have at least built a cheap link setup with bushings and cheap coils.

The 52's flex well and that's the best thing I can say about them.

The best setup I've found for myself is three leaves with an overload, the overload is the only thing that kept the spring pack usable. I tried it without and wow, forget about wheeling that (axle wrap central!)

Still, the spring pack will wrap bad when it's flexed out. And when you're going backwards, you have to be super careful because the springs fold over easily (you can't push a piece of string very easily :deal: ). Not to mention the approach angle deal, I beat the crap out of mine with 42's. I've wheeled with trucks that had 52's with smaller tires and they might as well have had snow plows up front :eek1:

We've talked plenty about making parts to use 52" springs up front, but honestly it doesn't make a ton of sense in my opinion.

If you need something more than a set of stock length front springs will get you, links and coils are the ideal solution.
Even if it's not a coilover setup like ours, a set of links that are parallel with the frame using some bushing/joint combo with some set of coils will be way better than 52's and in the same price ballpark.

My .02
 
ya,i was going to suggest that,but its a little more complicated for someone starting out. but what he means by 56s,is that 1 ton trucks,have 56" long rear leaf springs. the 3/4 and 1/2 ton have 52" rear springs. the longer the spring,the better the flex. so u could put 56" springs in the back. with the shackle flip. and get a good amount of lift and flex a lot. but it will move ur axle back from where it is stock i believe.
 
Then when you realize that 52's have serious approach angle problems, axle wrap problems and spring life problems you'll realize you really need links and coils :doah:

The kicker with 52's is that you will absolutely need crossover steering (which can be $400+) and they are far from a perfect answer.

On my 4th set of 52" fronts and can't wait to get rid of them, wish I would have at least built a cheap link setup with bushings and cheap coils.

The 52's flex well and that's the best thing I can say about them.

The best setup I've found for myself is three leaves with an overload, the overload is the only thing that kept the spring pack usable. I tried it without and wow, forget about wheeling that (axle wrap central!)

Still, the spring pack will wrap bad when it's flexed out. And when you're going backwards, you have to be super careful because the springs fold over easily (you can't push a piece of string very easily :deal: ). Not to mention the approach angle deal, I beat the crap out of mine with 42's. I've wheeled with trucks that had 52's with smaller tires and they might as well have had snow plows up front :eek1:

We've talked plenty about making parts to use 52" springs up front, but honestly it doesn't make a ton of sense in my opinion.

If you need something more than a set of stock length front springs will get you, links and coils are the ideal solution.
Even if it's not a coilover setup like ours, a set of links that are parallel with the frame using some bushing/joint combo with some set of coils will be way better than 52's and in the same price ballpark.

My .02
\

Damn you Chris.....are you tracking my IP looking at your coilover setup?:haha:
 
1996 Tahoe

I got a 96 tahoe recently, and installed another motor. Im having problems with the transmission not shifting out of first gear unless i let off the gas then it will shift. Also i can be cruising down the road at 50 or so mph and stomp the pedal and instead of it downshifting its like it hits neautral. Ive been told about numerous things that could be wrong with it, tps sensor, shift solenoids, valve body, wiring harness, etc. I was jus wondering if there was some test i could do while driving it that would possibly pin point the problem. Also the previous owner was having the same problems before the engine messed up. So it shouldnt be anything that i did to mess it up.
 
Also thanks for the ideas about the lift. I ended up buying another blazer that the body was pretty much shot but had a 6 inch suspension lift on it, 33 super swampers, an black pro comp wheels. I jus took all that off an put on my blazer. Only problem is the tires are too damn small
 

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