Anyone know where i can get rebuild parts for the old Fisher Speed Cast plows? I am looking for a rebuild kit for the engine driven hydraulic pump and the control valve body. Thanks!
CK5
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Fisher Speed Cast Plow Parts
- Thread starter Chevy305
- Start date
there basically sealed units . lots of guys have asked on plow sites a lot and get basically nothing . even if you could the parts and labor time would equal almost a new setup or electric conversion unit .
i always keep my eye open on ebay for fisher plow stuff .
i got super lucky years ago and scored a last generation engine driven pump with electric clutch head like a a/c comp has and the new joystick head with the ball switch on the back for the clutch to work up-left-right .
have you checked the control cables for correct adjustment ?
and what fluid ? there red atf only pump .
some guys swap on a smaller pulley to speed up the older worn out pumps to get them buy .
lots of pumps went south when the belt wasnt pulled in the off season driving the pump all the time .
some guys have rigged up a 2nd p/s pump to run the plow also .
chevy/fisher power
i always keep my eye open on ebay for fisher plow stuff .
i got super lucky years ago and scored a last generation engine driven pump with electric clutch head like a a/c comp has and the new joystick head with the ball switch on the back for the clutch to work up-left-right .
have you checked the control cables for correct adjustment ?
and what fluid ? there red atf only pump .
some guys swap on a smaller pulley to speed up the older worn out pumps to get them buy .
lots of pumps went south when the belt wasnt pulled in the off season driving the pump all the time .
some guys have rigged up a 2nd p/s pump to run the plow also .
chevy/fisher power
also keep an eye open for the fisher electric pumps up front . if you find one of these you can do electric controls in the cab super easy .
you need the tall lift ram pic1
NOT the short lift ram pic2
you need the tall lift ram pic1
NOT the short lift ram pic2
I always see parts and complete systems on Craigslist if you search a little to your west here in Vermont. Even within the past 24 hours. However most people don't know what they have so you will have to sort through the ads. A recurring one advertises as Chevy Blazer Plow Parts I believe. Having a Speedcast myself, I can tell what I'm looking at, even though the seller may not.
You can also try calling Iroquois Trucks in Hinesburg, VT. They are a Fisher dealer and some of their employees are lifelong Fisher plow owners and know everything there is to know. I've had to go there several times for advice and parts. I bet someone there can get you the parts, whether new via Fisher or used via word of mouth. Be warned they do have a telephone "gatekeeper" type receptionist (gal with a southern drawl) who can be a pain to deal with.
You can also try calling Iroquois Trucks in Hinesburg, VT. They are a Fisher dealer and some of their employees are lifelong Fisher plow owners and know everything there is to know. I've had to go there several times for advice and parts. I bet someone there can get you the parts, whether new via Fisher or used via word of mouth. Be warned they do have a telephone "gatekeeper" type receptionist (gal with a southern drawl) who can be a pain to deal with.
The older Fisher plow pumps you could take apart used the same pump (guts) as a typical Chevy from the 70's vintage (and probably many other years)..used to sell the A-1 Cardone PS-140 pumps to a Fisher dealer in Central MA when I worked at a parts store in Leominster often,he kept a half dozen in stock during the winter..
Newer pumps are brazed together and are non serviceable..
You can use a GM P/S pump but it'll need a larger tank,the canned ham tanks dont hold enough to operate the power angle cylinders--an external tank like some vans used may add enough capacity for it to work OK...the "log" Fisher used doesn't hold all that much more than the canned ham tanks..
One winter I fudged a second GM P/S pump on my '71 GMC's engine to get me by,I used a Tecumseh gas tank turned upside down as a extra capacity tank,by joining the tank filler's gas cap spout to the top of the pump where the cap went with a hunk of radiator hose and clamps--filled it thru the fuel outlet hole,and I had to drill a 1/8" hole for a vent..had plenty of fluid capacity then!..but the pump whined all winter and by spring it was about dead,I think the fluid foamed too much and it killed it..I found a good Fisher pump at a junkyard for $30 with the right bracketry that summer for it..
I have never had to mess with a control valve,guess I've been lucky--all of the ones I have had came from used plow setups I bought ,some from junkyards--all worked fine and didn't leak..the cable adjustment can be fussy sometimes..
Newer pumps are brazed together and are non serviceable..
You can use a GM P/S pump but it'll need a larger tank,the canned ham tanks dont hold enough to operate the power angle cylinders--an external tank like some vans used may add enough capacity for it to work OK...the "log" Fisher used doesn't hold all that much more than the canned ham tanks..
One winter I fudged a second GM P/S pump on my '71 GMC's engine to get me by,I used a Tecumseh gas tank turned upside down as a extra capacity tank,by joining the tank filler's gas cap spout to the top of the pump where the cap went with a hunk of radiator hose and clamps--filled it thru the fuel outlet hole,and I had to drill a 1/8" hole for a vent..had plenty of fluid capacity then!..but the pump whined all winter and by spring it was about dead,I think the fluid foamed too much and it killed it..I found a good Fisher pump at a junkyard for $30 with the right bracketry that summer for it..
I have never had to mess with a control valve,guess I've been lucky--all of the ones I have had came from used plow setups I bought ,some from junkyards--all worked fine and didn't leak..the cable adjustment can be fussy sometimes..
I run ATF in my pump. I really like the engine driven pump and don't want to swap to electric unless necessary. Being that my truck is a manual I can easily rev it up if I want to lift the plow faster.
I'll have to look at my pump if it can be pulled apart like a power steering pump. I didn't realize that's all they are. My pump is currently fine though.
My control valve could use some attention though. The plow leaks down under it's own weight. It's not a huge deal really.
I find it hard to believe that there's no rebuild kit for the control valves. It mean its just two shuttle valves and handful of orings. I guess I'll look for a good used one.
I'll have to look at my pump if it can be pulled apart like a power steering pump. I didn't realize that's all they are. My pump is currently fine though.
My control valve could use some attention though. The plow leaks down under it's own weight. It's not a huge deal really.
I find it hard to believe that there's no rebuild kit for the control valves. It mean its just two shuttle valves and handful of orings. I guess I'll look for a good used one.
and being yellow lots of people call them meyers plows 
and there not even in the same class of beefy-ness.
and there not even in the same class of beefy-ness.
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
I like my engine driven hydro plow pump, always works and no electrical drama.
How do I make sure my cables are adjusted properly?
I just fiddle with them until both valves are centered--if one cable doesn't return the valve to center,it will let a cylinder bleed down (in your case the one that controls the lift piston)...I'd try adjusting the cable (or disconnect it and move the valve by hand with something to find "center"), and see if the blade still wants to droop with the valve centered..if it doesn't ,then all that needs to be done is adjust the cable..
A worn lift piston seal might let it droop too,if the valve is OK..
I find it hard to believe Fisher has no parts available for the control valve,or no other aftermarket hydraulic supplier..someone must have them..maybe it is just "standard" o-rings they use,so no "kit" exists ?..
A worn lift piston seal might let it droop too,if the valve is OK..
I find it hard to believe Fisher has no parts available for the control valve,or no other aftermarket hydraulic supplier..someone must have them..maybe it is just "standard" o-rings they use,so no "kit" exists ?..
single acting ram if leaking past the seal would leak fluid out the top and loose fluid level in the pump .
Yes,it would tend to leak out around the piston..no way for it to back feed into the system..
I had a weepy quick connector let my blade droop down slowly,I just removed it and ran the hydraulic hose direct into the lift piston,I don't know why someone put one there to begin with..don't need one there,when the plow frame & cylinder stay on year round..
I lucked out at a swap meet a few years ago,it was a 2 day event and on Sunday afternoon when the place was getting emptied out and people were packing up to leave,a guy had a large tarp spread out on the ground--everything on it for $1 each..there were several plow pistons there,I grabbed all 5 of them for that price!..
Two are matches to my Fisher power angle pistons and one lift cylinder,the other two were painted red and probably go to a western or myers plow,but I can make them fit by moving the mount points on the plow A frame if I had too..I may use those for another project on my garden tractor..
I had a weepy quick connector let my blade droop down slowly,I just removed it and ran the hydraulic hose direct into the lift piston,I don't know why someone put one there to begin with..don't need one there,when the plow frame & cylinder stay on year round..
I lucked out at a swap meet a few years ago,it was a 2 day event and on Sunday afternoon when the place was getting emptied out and people were packing up to leave,a guy had a large tarp spread out on the ground--everything on it for $1 each..there were several plow pistons there,I grabbed all 5 of them for that price!..
Two are matches to my Fisher power angle pistons and one lift cylinder,the other two were painted red and probably go to a western or myers plow,but I can make them fit by moving the mount points on the plow A frame if I had too..I may use those for another project on my garden tractor..
See my avatar for the plow frame on my pickup..
It can only have the uprights unbolted--the push plates below that are welded right to the frame,which was boxed in with 3/8" plate..
I have read on the MA inspection laws that this type of plow lift frame is supposed to "be removed when not in use"..
I guess many injuries result from the yellow triangle going thru car windows and hitting people..(hence the onset of the "minute mount" plows )..
However,not once has any inspector said boo about it being on "year round"..on this truck,or any of the others I've owned in the past..
It can only have the uprights unbolted--the push plates below that are welded right to the frame,which was boxed in with 3/8" plate..
I have read on the MA inspection laws that this type of plow lift frame is supposed to "be removed when not in use"..
I guess many injuries result from the yellow triangle going thru car windows and hitting people..(hence the onset of the "minute mount" plows )..
However,not once has any inspector said boo about it being on "year round"..on this truck,or any of the others I've owned in the past..
yep unbolt the upper half unplug the lights and hose for lift ram . then bolt on the fisher plowmate .
minute mount plows all come from crash test and cromple zone testing and also people wanting it all off when not plowing . is what it is tho .
minute mount plows all come from crash test and cromple zone testing and also people wanting it all off when not plowing . is what it is tho .
