Have a lead on 2 sets of tires only problem is they are both 15's. How much work to make 15's fit with 3.75" of back spacing? Or should I pass on them.
CK5
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Fitting 15's on 1 tons
- Thread starter jekquistk5
- Start date
I did 3.25b/s on a gm 60 and had to do a decent amount of grinding .
2.50-2.75 is the bolt on and go ticket .
2.50-2.75 is the bolt on and go ticket .
Roger that, I would have to grind the rear as well since I have a 14 with disc's using the 10bolt rotors and calipers.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Not sure on the size difference between the 1-ton stuff and the 3/4 ton 10bolt I put in, but I had about the same back spacing and had to do some half way decent grinding, It wasn't anything horrible, placed the wheel up as far as I could, moved it to make marks as to where it was rubbing and proceeded to grind away until enough was taken off to not rub, then took a bit more off to be sure.
Nothing on the rear 10 bolt though, bolted up and went on those.
I spent maybe 45 minutes per side between grinding and test fitting. Wasn't really as difficult as I was thinking it was going to be.
Adding, since you posted before I did, I can say mine were bolted up to a 14bolt with drums at the time. After I switched to discs is about the same time I went with the H2 wheels. So everything cleared without trouble then.
Nothing on the rear 10 bolt though, bolted up and went on those.
I spent maybe 45 minutes per side between grinding and test fitting. Wasn't really as difficult as I was thinking it was going to be.
Adding, since you posted before I did, I can say mine were bolted up to a 14bolt with drums at the time. After I switched to discs is about the same time I went with the H2 wheels. So everything cleared without trouble then.
I may just hold out there is a guy selling just one 39.5 x 15 x 16.5's and I already have a set of 16.5 beadlock rims. Just don't want to spend a fortune on tires again.. would just have to buy 3 new ones from 4wp
Rears fit with no grinding, fronts will be a fair bit of grinding. I ran same backspace 15's on my one ton stuff a few years ago.
If I'm gonna spend money I want to upgrade to atleast a 40" tire. I hope to get a used set of 40s or 42's with about 50% tread.
A Dana 60 requires a LOT more grinding than a Dana 44 or ten bolt. It's just time though.
Martin
Martin
Maybe I'll just wait I'll spend the extra 200 so I won't have to grind
I had a set of 15" wheels that were 2.75" backspacing and required a TON of grinding, each wheel is made differently.
the ones a lot of guys here run and like for out of the box bolt on and go .
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/usw-78-5080r/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/usw-78-5080r/overview/
If I'm gonna spend another 300 on rims that kills the deal I'll just wait till I can find a decent set of 16's or 16.5" tires as I have both already.
Grinding costs less than $200.
Martin
Martin
My 1990 K5 is ground for 15" wheels. I drove it from California to Nebraska.
One time on the river I broke a stub shaft, and it exploded my lockout and got into the wheel bearings. I drove for awhile, and then lost the bearings. The only thing holding the wheel on was the caliper and caliper mounting bracket. I drove it a mile and a half off the river this way, and onto a trailer.
This is what it looked like when I got home. You can see the wheel did some additional grinding. I installed a new stub shaft (35 spline), new lockout, new bearings/races/seals, but I am still using that caliper and mounting bracket.
So I don't put a lot of stock into people who say it weakens them.....
Martin
One time on the river I broke a stub shaft, and it exploded my lockout and got into the wheel bearings. I drove for awhile, and then lost the bearings. The only thing holding the wheel on was the caliper and caliper mounting bracket. I drove it a mile and a half off the river this way, and onto a trailer.
This is what it looked like when I got home. You can see the wheel did some additional grinding. I installed a new stub shaft (35 spline), new lockout, new bearings/races/seals, but I am still using that caliper and mounting bracket.
So I don't put a lot of stock into people who say it weakens them.....
Martin
72blazerguy
3/4 ton status
^^how much do you estimate that you ground off (not the wheel)
I'm looking at same situation as the OP
I'm looking at same situation as the OP
My 1990 K5 is ground for 15" wheels. I drove it from California to Nebraska.
One time on the river I broke a stub shaft, and it exploded my lockout and got into the wheel bearings. I drove for awhile, and then lost the bearings. The only thing holding the wheel on was the caliper and caliper mounting bracket. I drove it a mile and a half off the river this way, and onto a trailer.
This is what it looked like when I got home. You can see the wheel did some additional grinding. I installed a new stub shaft (35 spline), new lockout, new bearings/races/seals, but I am still using that caliper and mounting bracket.
So I don't put a lot of stock into people who say it weakens them.....
Martin
Wow I can pick up a set of 36's for 300 bucks. I might do it since its better than the bald 33's i have
No idea. I bought it that way, and it had 16" wheels on it when I got it. I didn't realize they were even ground till I got home with it. I have done several Dana 44's though. The Dana 60 requires a lot more grinding.
Martin
I have the reverse center wheels and they clear fine
If I did it again I would run regular backspace wheels and wheel spacers like I have in the back
It really only matters if you want to run beadlocks though
Although I've never confirmed it to work in the front yet
These are 15x8 wheels
If I did it again I would run regular backspace wheels and wheel spacers like I have in the back
It really only matters if you want to run beadlocks though
Although I've never confirmed it to work in the front yet
These are 15x8 wheels
