I am going to be doing the floors in my 74 K-5 soon but that is the least of my worries, I belive that the body is tweaked, i can not get my doors to close, i can grab the windsheild fram and the whole thing will move, I belive the somhow the firewall is bent forward, i did use a comalong attached to teh a pillar and was able to get the doors where they woudl close but as soon as i took it off it went right back, When i do my floor i plan on replacing the Front floor supports also, should this fix my problem, i would like to get it so i can open and close my doors
CK5
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fixing k-5 body, doors won't close
- Thread starter 1979jimmy350
- Start date
ttt
that sounds pretty bad...
Alot of times the body rusts to a point where it lets the A pillar and the door hinge mounts sag a bit. Unless you really know what you are doing it might be pretty had to get everything back in place. Also remember once you start cutting and welding its hard to turn back.
Alot of times the body rusts to a point where it lets the A pillar and the door hinge mounts sag a bit. Unless you really know what you are doing it might be pretty had to get everything back in place. Also remember once you start cutting and welding its hard to turn back.
YEOWCH.... hope you can get it straightened out....
This is where a frame machine is a huge plus... how your doors fit to the cab is your critical factor... Proper gapping is what it's all about...
Yeah, as the other guys mentioned... body alignment becomes critical when you dismantle certain parts of the cab...
I'll actually be doing this over X-mas, everything from the transfer case shifter back.. New front floor supports done from 2 x 4 all the way back to tailpan and qrters.. It's all about maintaining proper distances and doing it in a particular order... Qrters first, then floor for my case...
Always remember, tackweld stuff in till you add components like doors, etc to check final fits, etc...
Yeah, as the other guys mentioned... body alignment becomes critical when you dismantle certain parts of the cab...
I'll actually be doing this over X-mas, everything from the transfer case shifter back.. New front floor supports done from 2 x 4 all the way back to tailpan and qrters.. It's all about maintaining proper distances and doing it in a particular order... Qrters first, then floor for my case...
Always remember, tackweld stuff in till you add components like doors, etc to check final fits, etc...
yea, i know the frame is straight, im not looking to get it looking great, i just want to replace the front floors and get the doors to actually close
nah, nah, got nothing to do with the frame being straight... Has to do with clamping the body in position, measuring, aligning, etc...
ryoken said:
what would you then suggest as my best plan of attack for fixing the problem, i did bolt the hard top on to the winsheild frame but the bed rai holes do not line up
Ah, didn't realize it was full convertable.. I just looked at your name and assumed it was a second gen... I'm not overly familiar with the rockerbox, bodymount setup on the first gens...
I would try to get the hardtop to bolt up to the bedrails first.. Come-a-long, porta power to the firewall, etc... Then determine where it's pivoting.. sounds like those front mounts/floor area have failed, allowing the firewall to flop around...
Once the hardtop is bolted up, you should be able to replace the structural floor area without too many probs.. Floor jacks under each side of the A pillar should help in aligning it all...
I would try to get the hardtop to bolt up to the bedrails first.. Come-a-long, porta power to the firewall, etc... Then determine where it's pivoting.. sounds like those front mounts/floor area have failed, allowing the firewall to flop around...
Once the hardtop is bolted up, you should be able to replace the structural floor area without too many probs.. Floor jacks under each side of the A pillar should help in aligning it all...
ok, yea the front two mounts for the body are not attached becasue the bolts broke off so i figured i was going to have to replace the floor supports, and the floors, the rockers actually are not rusted and the rocker boxes are in good shape still
ryoken said:
It is a 2nd gen, 73/74/75 were full convertables too.
