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Flaring tool for brake lines...

A better tool... I have had guys say to me they could never make a good flare with their cheaper setup, but do it effortless with my setup.

That said, are you making sure to check how far through the block the brake line is going? If I remember right off hand it should be the thickness of the die above the split bar.
 
sled_dog said:
A better tool... I have had guys say to me they could never make a good flare with their cheaper setup, but do it effortless with my setup.

That said, are you making sure to check how far through the block the brake line is going? If I remember right off hand it should be the thickness of the die above the split bar.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I used the head of the die to gauge it. I didn't put it in a vice though. That thing is a beotch to use when holding it in your hands alone...

Also, I just read somewhere about using something to clean up the edges after cutting it with the pipe cutter. That may have affected it too, but how much I'm not sure.
 
it's the tool.... god forbid you do stainless... I have about the best in that style you can get and I still get bad flares on occasion...

I've been eyeballin the nice 3, $400 hydraulic ones for years now....
 
ryoken said:
it's the tool.... god forbid you do stainless... I have about the best in that style you can get and I still get bad flares on occasion...

I've been eyeballin the nice 3, $400 hydraulic ones for years now....
Click to expand...

$400!?!?!

Screw that noise... :haha::haha::haha:

Seriously though, I have no problem with buying good tools, but this is just to get my brakes working again. I don't foresee a need for the really good stuff.

Would holding the thing in a vice and practicing my technique yield better results???
 
also make sure that the wing nut thingys that hold the 2 pieces of the fixture together are TIGHT, like plier tight, just tightening them with your hand isn't tight enough and the pipe can and will move, which could be part of your problem.

With that said, I use the Matco tool.
 
Jason4x4 said:
also make sure that the wing nut thingys that hold the 2 pieces of the fixture together are TIGHT, like plier tight, just tightening them with your hand isn't tight enough and the pipe can and will move, which could be part of your problem.

With that said, I use the Matco tool.
Click to expand...

I had it pretty tight...

another thing I forgot...it seemed at times the tube wasn't in perfectly straight, but my friend managed an almost usable flare with it anyway. I think the right technique will produce usable results, but it's gonna be a PITA.
 
Its the cheap tool that's causing your grief. You can buy a good flaring tool for around $60.00 or so. I always use the file on the tubing cutter to file the end flat and smooth, ream the ID to get rid of the ridge from the tube cutter, and also run the file around the outside of the tube where it was cut. Now i insert it within the two halves of the flare tool and TIGHTEN the nuts and then i spray WD40 on the tube before i even start to make the flare. This will produce a quality flare if you're using a quality tool. Also, you need to clamp the tool in a vise.
 
x5 on the crappy tool. I went through the same thing a couple months ago. I made about 12 bad practice flares in a row trying every trick I could find online before I returned it to AutoZone and borrowed a Rigid one from a guy at work. His didn't make perfect flares, but they were approximately 1568 times better. I think the quality of the hard line may play a role too.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Its the cheap tool that's causing your grief. You can buy a good flaring tool for around $60.00 or so. I always use the file on the tubing cutter to file the end flat and smooth, ream the ID to get rid of the ridge from the tube cutter, and also run the file around the outside of the tube where it was cut. Now i insert it within the two halves of the flare tool and TIGHTEN the nuts and then i spray WD40 on the tube before i even start to make the flare. This will produce a quality flare if you're using a quality tool. Also, you need to clamp the tool in a vise.
Click to expand...

BGKYK5 said:
x5 on the crappy tool. I went through the same thing a couple months ago. I made about 12 bad practice flares in a row trying every trick I could find online before I returned it to AutoZone and borrowed a Rigid one from a guy at work. His didn't make perfect flares, but they were approximately 1568 times better. I think the quality of the hard line may play a role too.
Click to expand...

I'll probably return it then...IF I can find the receipt. :doah:

I completed moving out of the old house this week, so I fear the receipt may be gone. :crazy:

I did buy it at Advance Auto, and I'm pretty friendly with the staff there, so maybe I'll catch a break.
 
ryoken said:
it's the tool.... god forbid you do stainless... I have about the best in that style you can get and I still get bad flares on occasion...

I've been eyeballin the nice 3, $400 hydraulic ones for years now....
Click to expand...


The Mastercool one is sweet. If you do brake lines or hard lines more than a couple times a year, it is a must anymore. So many adapters too. I just put one of those kits on the truck.
 
Maaaayyyy not be the tool....

I have an auto parts cheapie that does just fine...

Most flare work is in the preparation of the tubing....not the tool.

After tubing is cut with a tubing cutter the edges of the tube are rolled inward. This makes it hard to do a clean flare, unless the end of the tube is properly dressed.

Try cutting the tube with a cut-off wheel or a fine tooth hacksaw,,,deburr and file the tube completely square on the end and try again.

clamp the tube in the block tight and lightly oil the flare cones !!

But what do I know,,,I've only been flaring tubing all my life in the refrigeration field.....:rolleyes::rolleyes:;)
 
wasted wages said:
Maaaayyyy not be the tool....

I have an auto parts cheapie that does just fine...

Most flare work is in the preparation of the tubing....not the tool.

After tubing is cut with a tubing cutter the edges of the tube are rolled inward. This makes it hard to do a clean flare, unless the end of the tube is properly dressed.

Try cutting the tube with a cut-off wheel or a fine tooth hacksaw,,,deburr and file the tube completely square on the end and try again.

clamp the tube in the block tight and lightly oil the flare cones !!

But what do I know,,,I've only been flaring tubing all my life in the refrigeration field.....:rolleyes::rolleyes:;)
Click to expand...

I think a big problem was not properly cleaning and deburing the ends of the tube after cutting. I'll use my Dremel cut-off wheel to clean the ends up. Also, I wasn't oiling the threads of the cone tool, or the cone itself. I read I should oil both.

Finally, I am worried about the line not being in there straight as a potential problem. I'll double-check my technique, but will probably try to swap it for a better version of the same tool.
 
Yea, good tools don't make a shade tree mechanic into a master certified technician, but they sure do help.
 
the mastercool tool was the best $400 i ever spent. well worth the money imo. works great, but even still sometimes it produces crappy flares. as stated before, it won't turn the shade tree mechanic into a master technician.
 
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