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Flat belly with a doubler.

You don't have to flip the 203 up side down to get the belly flat but you do have to rotate it 90 degrees from stock mounting.
I know ORD makes one with the 203 rotated flat along with the 205.

I don't know about the rest of the doublers.

I would guess that NWF has something.

The old WMS doublers put the 203 in upside down. I don't see why when rotating it 90 degrees the right direction puts the shifter on top of the case and eliminates leaks around the shifter.
 
I have the 205 rotated flat with the 203. I also raised the entire drivetrain about 2" over stock. with all new body mounts and a 1" body lift I still had to cut out the floor above the 205. The body over the 203 was fine. I could have made a flat belly as my crossmember is the only thing hanging below the frame, but I am not worried about hitting the crossmember. Front driveshaft angle is OK (still stock), I had to grind the CV quite a bit but it seems to be holding togather. Ther rear shaft is at a bad angle and I need to get a high angle (to drive at highway speeds) shaft, but seems ok at low speeds. it is also still stock.

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How low do you think it would have hung if you did not raise the whole drivetrain? Really would like to avoid that.
 
cegusman said:
How low do you think it would have hung if you did not raise the whole drivetrain? Really would like to avoid that.
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with the 205 clocked flat to the 203 in the factory location (as in the drivetrain not lowered like when you have a 6" lift) i would guesstimate it at about 1" below the framerails. which you could plate it and be just as low as I am.
 
My NV4500/203/205 (NWF) is about as flat as Scooby's is. Pretty much just beefy X-member below the frame. My 203 is straight up, and my 205 is rotated 3" up...plus I pulled the drivetrain itself a little more up too. I also had to hack my floor a fair bit even with a 1" BL. My front driveline is great with 1410's at either end. The angles are better than they were with my 465/205 combo i had before.

The rear driveline is a little steep, about 19 degrees running angle. I have the diff tipped up for a CV shaft but am still running 1410's top and bottom. :doah: Surpisingly the vibes aren't all that bad under 45 mph...

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The NWF stuff is clockable however you want it, and if you find it's too much or not enough you can unbolt and reclock it.

Rene
 
here is mine. Crossmember hangs 2" below frame is all. This is a WMS setup with the 205 flush with bottom of 203 in stock location. 25" of belly clearance.

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tRustyK5 said:
My NV4500/203/205 (NWF) is about as flat as Scooby's is. Pretty much just beefy X-member below the frame. My 203 is straight up, and my 205 is rotated 3" up...plus I pulled the drivetrain itself a little more up too. I also had to hack my floor a fair bit even with a 1" BL. My front driveline is great with 1410's at either end. The angles are better than they were with my 465/205 combo i had before.

The rear driveline is a little steep, about 19 degrees running angle. I have the diff tipped up for a CV shaft but am still running 1410's top and bottom. :doah: Surpisingly the vibes aren't all that bad under 45 mph...

The NWF stuff is clockable however you want it, and if you find it's too much or not enough you can unbolt and reclock it.

Rene
Click to expand...
I have really been thinking about the NWF stuff. The main thing I was really looking for was how low the np203 box hung down, If it hung down bad I was going to get NWK to build me a sm465 to np203 adaptor with a 90 degree or 180 degree rotation. I think I will just run the stock one for now, buy the NWF doubler. Clock the np205 flat and see how it works out.
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As for drive shafts, I allready have a H.A.D. 1ton 1410 cv shaft in the rear and a 42 degree CV shaft up front, so angles should not be a problem.
 
Well, that's the other thing with the NWF kit, if you want to experiment with clocking the 203 at 90,180 or 270 you can...it's a standard feature of their kit.

Rene
 
Im flat.I run an ORD setup with the 205 clocked up and my whole drivertrain raised about 2.75" :D

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Looks good, but damn you people with raising the drivetrain.:doah: I want to keep my center of gravity as low as possible, so its really not an option.
 
If you dont want to raise it then dont, but you wont have a flat belly.
I went up as far as I wanted to with the shafts I run. I would say Im around 2inches below the frame. Mostly crossmember. 203 is stock, 205 is flat. staz/jeds adapter.
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cegusman said:
Looks good, but damn you people with raising the drivetrain.:doah: I want to keep my center of gravity as low as possible, so its really not an option.
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Raising it up that far I thought would be a noticable difference in the way it wheeled.It feels the same as before I raised it.Low COG is cool,but I dont think raising it a couple inches will kill you :D
 
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Here's mine, 205 clocked flat, 203 upside down. As for whether or not the drive train is raised or not I couldn't tell you. It was all custom mounted and its a Caddy motor with a 465 mounted off a midplate. Crossmembers are above the bottom of the frame rails. Drive shaft angles are really good. I used a 465/208 adapter which is pretty long. Pushes the doubler back a ways and helps that front angle.
 
jays68yak said:
If you dont want to raise it then dont, but you wont have a flat belly.
I went up as far as I wanted to with the shafts I run. I would say Im around 2inches below the frame. Mostly crossmember. 203 is stock, 205 is flat. staz/jeds adapter.
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Thanks thats just the pic I was looking for.
 
cybrfire said:
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Here's mine, 205 clocked flat, 203 upside down. As for whether or not the drive train is raised or not I couldn't tell you. It was all custom mounted and its a Caddy motor with a 465 mounted off a midplate. Crossmembers are above the bottom of the frame rails. Drive shaft angles are really good. I used a 465/208 adapter which is pretty long. Pushes the doubler back a ways and helps that front angle.
Click to expand...

Does the 203 leak at all being upside down. Can I get some pics from the under side, and the floor where you had to cut?
 
I have a leak between the cases not from the case. I'll see what I can do for pics. I've been terrible about that lately! I cut alot of floor out!
 
So did I.I had a big hole from the bell housing to the rear output.My rear output was inside the cab :D
 
cybrfire said:
I have a leak between the cases not from the case. I'll see what I can do for pics. I've been terrible about that lately! I cut alot of floor out!
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I would really apreciate some pics if you remember. I am still really thinking about setting it up this way. Just don't want to spend all the extra money, but might need to.
 
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