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flat floor pan in a crew cab

original balzer

original balzer

1/2 ton status
Joined
Nov 17, 2004
Posts
4,660
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Location
roosevelt utah
The hump in the floor is just stupid in my crew cab. Its like they put 2 reg cab floors in the crew cabs. Seams it would be cleaner to just cut it out and make it all flat. Has anyopne done it? I looked for floor patches for a blazer but it looks like it only goes to the front seat mounts?

I need to repair the floor under the kickpannel anyway. So if someone sells the blazer floor sides all the way back to the step it would be awesome. If not I may use diamond plate.

Anyone got sugestions?
 
I have a large body lift (8") I originally made my floor flat to keep the stick shift hole close to stock diameter. I cut out the entire hump from the firewall to the step at the back seat. Then I put 2 braces under the floor to stiffen it up and bolted them to the inner seat mounts. then flat sheetmetal for the floor. It gives more legroom and the cooler fits nice between the seats. :D I don't have any pics handy.
 
He has stacked frame. It looks crazy. Not sure of the point, but I give him credit for being different. Just doesn't look too strong to me.

1501878534_dfc644f8c1.jpg

1501879306_6d3693c3b2.jpg

1501022261_75c0188f18.jpg
 
original balzer said:
The hump in the floor is just stupid in my crew cab. Its like they put 2 reg cab floors in the crew cabs. Seams it would be cleaner to just cut it out and make it all flat. Has anyopne done it? I looked for floor patches for a blazer but it looks like it only goes to the front seat mounts?

I need to repair the floor under the kickpannel anyway. So if someone sells the blazer floor sides all the way back to the step it would be awesome. If not I may use diamond plate.

Anyone got sugestions?
Click to expand...

So the back seat of you crew cab has a hump in it :confused:

Why not use the floor from a burb mine is flat and I may have a spare that has no rust
 
I think when it comes time I will do a diamond plate floor. I will probably wait till Im ready to cut the rockers out and replace them with some sort of square or rectangle tube. Something very simular to this. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102779&page=2

The doodle below shows the shape of the floor the blue humps are what I dont like. Well the front one anyway I can live with the rear one.

floor.JPG
 
Oh so where the seats bolt into I get it, Blazer only style that did that so other then a whole new floor sides I'm no help.
 
Its not the trans tunnel. Its the space the saddle tanks occupy in a pickup. The doubler shouldnt need floor clearance in this truck as the frame is 3" taller than a blazers. Also I can build the floor to clear it as Im not going to do the floor until the drivetrain is done.
 
He has stacked frame. It looks crazy. Not sure of the point, but I give him credit for being different. Just doesn't look too strong to me.
Click to expand...

that's...different. :thinking:

I bet that adds a whole lot of weight, even though the front is chopped out. actually, that's sort of weird, too. i'd trust it more if the supports/connecting points were boxed instead of just flat steel. To each his own.
 
I have to ask.. which vin number does the truck use?


I mean, If I bolt a 70's frame to a 90's truck...

does it make it have 70's smog exemption? :haha:
 
original balzer said:
Its not the trans tunnel. Its the space the saddle tanks occupy in a pickup. The doubler shouldnt need floor clearance in this truck as the frame is 3" taller than a blazers. Also I can build the floor to clear it as Im not going to do the floor until the drivetrain is done.
Click to expand...

My doubler hit under the floor of my seat with a 1 inch body lift, the 205 is rotated up a few inches.
 
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