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Flat tappet cam break in with new oils

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Blazer79

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I'm about to start for the first time my freshly rebuilt 489 stroker. It's got a 210/218 @0.050 .505/.505 lift hydraulic cam.

I've been reading a lot about the newer oils and how they bring less and less zinc with each new EPA regulation, which can be really bad for older engines like this. The more I read the more scared I get from running new oils in my engine. From what I've read a hydraulic cam needs at least 1200 ppm of ZDDP. From Amsoil's website:

The American Petroleum Institute (API) and International Lubricants Standards Approval Committee (ILSAC) have mandated the reduction of phosphorus to extend catalytic converter life. However, reducing the level of ZDDP can compromise protection to engine components, most notably in flat tappet camshafts. API SN and ILSAC GF-5 specs for gasoline engines have maximum and minimum phosphorus levels of 800 ppm and 600 ppm, respectively, for SAE 0W-20, SAE 5W-20, SAE 0W-30, SAE 5W-30 and SAE 10W-30 motor oils.
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According to break-in procedures I've read, I'm supposed to run the first 20-30mins @2000-3000rpms with non-synthetic oil, then change it. Then drive about 200miles and then change the oil and filteragain. I'm covered for this first run because I was able to get a 12oz bottle of Crane Cams cam break-in Additive by miracle. I'm gonna use Quaker State 10W-30 API SN with this additive. I'm stuck what to do afterwards. I know I'm supposed to drive it for about 200 miles with this next oil. The question is which oil?

I live in Guatemala, Central America. There is not much of a variety of oils. Especially non-synthetic ones. I had most of my parts of my engine shipped to me from the US. Unfortunately oils cannot fly. The only option is by ship, with an extra fee for "hazardous goods" and a month of waiting time.

I've researched and found some synthetic oils, like Mobil1 15W-50 that I might be able to get ahold over here with 1200ppm ZDDP. Can I use a synthetic oil for the next 200miles? Or must I use a non-synthetic type?

Any help appreciated.
 
Do you have Shell Rotella oil available to you? It's a common diesel engine oil up here and from what I understand it has the zinc additive you are looking for.

This is just what I've read here on CK5, someone else will chime in I'm sure.
 
You have two separate problems.
Lack of zinc can and usually will cause scuffing of the cam lobes. Which is fatal short term.
The non-synthetic part is due to the fact that it can cause the rings not to seat rapidly because the synthetic is so slick.

If you have not other choice, go with the zinc and synthetic. The worst that should happen would be some oil burning because the rings took longer than normal to seat.

You mentioned Amsoil, they sell a high zinc break-in oil that you might look at.

Here is a link or two.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/break-in-oil-(sae-30)/?code=BRKQT-EA

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ZRTQT-EA
 
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Royal purple sells a breakin lube that works well.
NAPA sells it as wells as jegs and summit.
I broke in my 302 ford motor with it, and now run Rotella and 1 quart of the royal purple for the zinc...my flat tappet seems happy with this combo so far.

Another thing you can do is run a set of light weight valve springs during the break in an d then change them to your regular springs later, if you are running multiple coil springs on your valves...
 
Thanks for all your replies!

Thanks 496. I guess some missed the Guatemala part. LOL

My dilemma is in the oil I'm going to use after the 20min break-in and before I switch to synthetic.

The only Shell we get is called Helix (non-synthetic). I don't know which Helix or how does it compare to Rotella. But most people say that even Rotella is no longer recommended (as metalneverdies kinkly points it out). There's only one small shop selling Amsoil but only the Extended Mileage full synthetic. And Amsoil's website does not mention this one as adecuate, only other ones.

I remember seeing a bottle of Kendall a few months ago which specifically mentioned having a high content of Zinc. "This is it" I thought. Unfortunately they've changed it now and the 10W-30 is a synthetic blend and the 20W-50 is non-synthetic. None of these mention the high content of zinc anymore. :mad1:

I've been doing some calls and just found a place that sells Quaker State Defy in 10W40, which is supposed to have a high zinc content. Haven't been able to find online the exact ZDDP content though. It's also a synthetic-blend. I would be happier if it were non-synthetic. Do you guys think this is OK? I'm also trying to convince my shipping co. to fly me one small 12oz bottle of oil additive.
 
I live in Guatemala, Central America.
Not sure NAPA is a common parts store down there.
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I understand that....... but I'm sure some auto parts company does international shipping....or export....Jegs ? Summit ?

My thinking was he could get a case of royal purple break in lube sent....
and use a quart of the royal purple with rotella making up the rest on every oil change....a case would last a long time,,,,and he would be getting the Zinc he is looking for..
 
I think what he is trying to avoid is the hazardous materials shipping charges which can get pricy.
 
I noticed the Guatemala part, but I had high hopes when you mentioned Amsoil. I was thinking you might have a good source down there.
Like I say, if you can keep the cam happy, I think the rings will seat eventually. There is an explanation on the Amsoil break-in oil link.

They talk about glazing and other problems during break-in, but I can only remember one set of rings that did not eventually seat of all the engines I had anything to do with over the years.

I can remember lots that did not seat, but it was a problem with the rebuild, not the lube.
Only remember one that looked fine when we tore it down, but just did not seat right. As I remember they just ran a glaze breaker down the cylinders and tried again and it worked.

That one might have been oil related.

I guess you can just run regular non-synthetic oil and grind up the outside of an old style flashlight battery really fine and dump it in.............
The old non alkaline ones were carbon for the center electrode and zinc for the outside case.

But, probably not a good idea.......

Grab a list of all the brands and which ones of each brand that are available and keep haunting the websites.
They usually have to post the contents somewhere. If all else fails try an E-mail to the company to see how much zinc they have.
 
82355 said:
Switch to roller? Not a real cheap option.

Martin
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Not a horribly priced option though, for some gain in drivetrain reliability.

I had the machine shop add that kit to the bill when I had them rebuild the engine in my Burb, was only about another $300-400.
 
STP used to have ZDDP in it which is zinc,dont know if it still does..other engine oil treatments might too,like Lucas?...

GM sold an "Engine Oil Supplement" at dealers years ago that was highly reccomended at cam replacement time and could be added at every oil change if desired..dont know if its still available or not..
 
Thanks for the replies again guys.

I've actually thought of doing a larger import, as wasted wages mentions. Maybe contact some friends and order several cases at once and split the hazardous materials bill. But that takes about a month. I'll be ready to start my 489 this weekend! Maybe for future rebuilds I'll think about this beforehand.

Fordum: I got some zinc, ground it with an old mayan corn-grinding stone and poured it in. Let's see how it goes. Kiddin! :haha:

I found an independent company that's trying to start importing Amsoil to Guatemala. Too bad they only have their Extended Life oil which is not among the high ZDDP ones recommended by amsoil.

I bought this hydraulic cam about 5 years ago thinking I was going to swap it into the 454 I had then. Never thought I was going to end up rebuilding a 489. If I was to choose a new cam today, no doubt I would pick a hydraulic roller. If eventually this one ends up being chewed because of the oil problem, I'll buy a roller one. Though I really don't want that to happen. I really miss driving my truck.

Right now I'm trying to convince my shipping company to allow me to import a small 12oz bottle of zinc additive without the premium charges. I'll let you know what happens. Anybody have experience with the Quaker State Defy I mentioned?
 
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