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Flat Towing & Death Wobble

Mudstud

1/2 ton status
Joined
May 29, 2001
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1,475
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Location
Memphis, TN
You guys think if I have DW driving down the road that I'd still have it if being flat towed?
 
Hahha:o I knew I was opening myself up to some BS but hey I was holding my breath. Figured maybe being drug instead of being pushed might afftect it somehow. Don't be haten! :crazy:
 
i beg to differ i have mad death wobble really bad unsafe to drive at times.
and i flat tow my sub all the time and no death wobble wonder it my self.
when i run a stock size tire a 315 70 16 on stelies for towing and drive it no death wobble,
put the 39.5 irok on a 16inch wheel and drive it death wobbles.
i usually tow on the small tires but blew the motor on a mudding trip where i drove it there had the wifey meet me with the tow rig and towed it home on the big tire and no problems, also towed it to the exhaust shop like that also,
cant explain why but i would try it out.
 
So I wasn't completely crazy for askin. Figured it wouln't hurt to ask. Might try and see if i can get this tow bar for cheap. That'd be killer if I could start hauling this thing around instead of driving it to the trails. I am putting a ram on it soon to try and eliminate the wobble though and I'd like to register it again and drive it more often.
 
best thing i ever did was build a tow bar way over built but the ones i seen just scared me.
i tow it 400 miles to glamis wheel it and tow it home./
not to jack thread but i read some where that a guy burnt out a 205 by puting it in N and flat towing it. I Put the tranny in N sm465 And the 205 in N and roll out, any problems with this.
i do not remove drive lines..
Also make sure the tow vehicle has great brakes you are now stopping 2 vehicles with one set of brakes, leave room.use safty chains so forth.
When i built mine i made it to accept a 2 5/16 ball rather than a 2' more safety. it cost me around 200 for all the materials, 2' square tubing 120 wall and tabs and delron bushings 1 3/4 dom.i had extra stock left over also.
also there is no backing up when flat towing one reson i leave drive lines in in case i pull in some where and get stuck i just un hook and drive the sub straight and re hook really easy.
 
here are some pics of mine.
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i removed the front frame horns regret it a little now but oh well if i did it again i would hole saw a 1 3/4 hole in the tip of fram horns slide the tube in weld it up and run a couple braces from the middle tube to frame. I did mine this way because i am addind a reciever for a front pintle hook.
 
I think you wont have DW if your flat towing the rig with the DW. Thats my thoughts at least, not a whole lotta fact or science behind that statement.
 
All right then I'm gonna buy it and hope for the best. I have a steel push bar on my rig and my factory tow hooks in stock location that I'd like to keep so I might have to break out the welder and come up with a way to retain all that. I'd really hate to loose the protection of that push bar and i gotta have tow points. That bar has saved my ars, errr, my front several times. Lots of trees around here and sometimes one gets a wild hair and jumps in front of you.:doah:Thanks for your response and pictures. BTW, what do you tow it with?

I'll be using a 99 4.6 ltr f150 with tow package. I know it's not the best but it's what I got. Glad it has 4 wheel disc.
 
i use a 98 chevy extra cab long bed 2500 5.7 4l80e i dont know about the ford weight and length of truck have factor in pulling big loads go easy and see how it feels. safety first
 
It just depends on what is causing the death wobble. If its you brakes then it wont matter, but if your suspension is just shot or whatever and it happens whenever you run over a bump then its probably going to happen.
 
Maybe change out your shocks to the adjustable ranchos and set them real stiff when you are towing. I've read on hear that people have eliminated alot of roll and DW with them. Worth a try maybe...
 
I did a complete overhaul of the axle before it went in- about a year ago I think. I drove it a long distance on stock h1 rims and tires. No DW. It sat at a friends a couple days and we took it for a spin and went over an angled hill and bam, it hit in all it's glory. I chalked it up to the tires being on their side during storage then getting hot on my way over to his house and then sitting on concrete for a couple days straight. Now unbalanced rockrings are on and 6 or 7 golf balls in each tire. The DW comes and goes but it comes more then it goes. I would not doubt at all that it is these crappy hummer tires I have, I wouldn't be surprised if the rock rings have something to do with it too. Might have to get a hold of a plasma cuter and cut the magority of the spikes off the inside.
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Got it rigged up. I need a tall raised hitch but for the initial go round it seemed to do fine. No DW. Got it up to 45mph and hit bumps on the road and nothing. Strange. . . but I like it. Have lights I gotta mod and getting a taller hitch and I'm in business.
 
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I added weld to the top two tabs on the push bar and welded angle behind the C to puch bar and C for added surface weld. Used 6010 all around and then 7018 for strength.
 
looks pretty good. I like how you (either intentionally or not) made the bar ride at an angle down to your hitch ball. This way when you brake, the weight transfer should help bear down on the rear axle of your tow vehicle, so that you have more braking power avaliable (and also not overheat your front brakes).
 
i would add a longer and a bigger safety chain i run 2 on mine if youre ball pops off or the reciever pin falls out by by k5 it is only hooked to the tow bar in pic.
 
That chain in the pics is the one that holds the tow bar up (erect) while I drive to the back of the furd. I took it out again after getting the adjustable ball mount and all and it did pretty good. Got it up to 55mph and no DW. Going To Coon Creek ORV in a couple weeks.
 

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