CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Flat towing the Blazer redux: pulling the 14BFF shafts

dremu

Officious Thread Derailer
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Feb 27, 2000
Posts
16,370
Reaction score
1,128
Location
East of San Francisco
Okay, so let's so I put the Blazer's front up on the dolly, and rather than yanking the U-joint and the driveshaft, I get lazy and pull the shafts out of the 14BFF.

I mean, they're RIGHT there, I won't even hafta get under the truck, and I'll have the OBA by then and it'd be a snap.

But, umm, won't all my gear lube come flying out the ends eventually, like won't I need a cover or something?

Should I just grind down a piece of sheet metal or plate and drill a few holes, or is there a flange gizmo for these pre-made?

-- A
 
or you could get junkyard axles and cut the ends off,

me thinks no caps of some sort is a real bad idea
 
surpip said:
or you could get junkyard axles and cut the ends off,

me thinks no caps of some sort is a real bad idea

Well, you see why I want to cork them. Never mind the dirt and crap in the bearings :(

Hmm. Yeah ... but dang, slicing through a 14BFF shaft doesn't sound like fun :(

-- A
 
Yes, taking the shafts out will cause you to lose all of your gear oil eventually. I would think just a round metal cover with 8 holes would work. Last time I had my rear shafts out, im pretty sure the end was just flat round metal. Or you could always do what was mentioned above and just buy some junkers and cut the shafts.
-Harrison
 
87BrnRsd said:
Thats what they make sawzalls for. And torches.
-Harrison

Torch, yes. Sawzall ... eww. Time consuming :D

So, on the subject, anybody know what 14BFF shafts go for at the PNP or like? (See, Doug, you KNEW you'd get me to buy them eventually :)

-- A
 
lol, I think you'll spend more time making cover plates than crawling underneith and undoing the 8 u-joint cover bolts and 2 steady bearing bolts (if it even has a steady bearing)
 
It's a Blazer, no steady bearing. Technically he would only have to undo the diff end of the shaft and tie it up out of the way...free to do and only 4 bolts (or nuts)

Rene
 
Ok, now to point out what everyone else has failed to realize or mention. The wheel bearings get their lube from the differential which travels from the carrier to the hubs via the axle shafts. How do you suppose the gear oil is going to get to the hubs if there are no shafts there?

Why not simply put the T-case in nuetral and tow away? If you're afraid of it jumping into gear then somehow tie it in such a way that it can't jump into gear.
 
Hi, Iused to drive a heavy wrecker for a living. You only need to pull one axle shaft, not both. The idea is to stop the driveline from moving, because most transmission oil pumps are driven by the engine side. Engine not running, no lubrication. AW Direct sells plastic covers for the 14bolt, because they are under most motorhomes and small box trucks. That being said, I`d rather crawl under a truck in a febuary blizzard and undo the driveshaft, than have to mess with the stink of that gear oil. If you have a slip yoke driveshaft, make sure it is tied up REAL TIGHT, or it can bounce out. Good luck on your trip.
 
Put the TC in neutral and tow the damn thing. I've done thousands of miles that way with no problems. It ain't rocket science!:waytogo:
 
towdriver80 said:
Hi, Iused to drive a heavy wrecker for a living. You only need to pull one axle shaft, not both. The idea is to stop the driveline from moving, because most transmission oil pumps are driven by the engine side. Engine not running, no lubrication. AW Direct sells plastic covers for the 14bolt, because they are under most motorhomes and small box trucks. That being said, I`d rather crawl under a truck in a febuary blizzard and undo the driveshaft, than have to mess with the stink of that gear oil. If you have a slip yoke driveshaft, make sure it is tied up REAL TIGHT, or it can bounce out. Good luck on your trip.

Pulling one shaft only works if you have an open dif. If it's locked you need to pull both shafts.
 
Isn't the problem with towing a t-case in neutral the same as towing an automatic in neutral? No lubrication, only the output is moving, eventually you end up with a lot of heat in whatever bearing/bushing the output shaft uses.

Or do the t-cases move enough oil with the output shaft stuff (in neutral) to not have that problem?
 
surpip said:
or you could get junkyard axles and cut the ends off,

me thinks no caps of some sort is a real bad idea

this works great! Reminds me of a joke we played on my buddy. We pulled his axles out then put just cut ends back in his f/f. he was so mad and confused it was hillarious.
 
loafer said:
Pulling one shaft only works if you have an open dif. If it's locked you need to pull both shafts.

Not true. An automatic locker will not stay locked with no input torque.
 
Top Bottom