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Floor jack problem/ Hitch platform ?'s

dhcomp

dhcomp

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Hey Y'all.
I've been a loyal reader over the last year or so, just haven't had the cash for membership.

Anyways, ive got a 94 Full size blazer.
I year or 2 ago, i bought the craftsman SUV floor jack (21" of lift or something), and it has served me pretty well over the last few years, although its only been used probably 5 times.

Well i went to use it the other day, and it will raise up until it hits something (like the frame), and then doesn't go up any farther when teh handle is pumped. I made sure the release valve was closed, any thing else i can try? It was only $50 or 60 on sale, so not really worth driving it to the repair place. I havent checked the fluid level yet, but it hasnt leaked out anywhere. Anyone else have this problem?

My other question is for anyone who has built a hitch mounted cargo platform. I'm taking a beginnning welding class starting on monday that will give me access to basic metal fab tools, and wanted to build a cargo platform for a first project. Sorta like this:
http://www.performanceproducts.com/...eiver+Rack+II&productid=105339&producttype=10

Most seem to be 40"x60", so i'll probably stick to that size, just make the frame a little beefier. Any material suggestions? I was going to use 2" square tube to go in the reciever (obviously), but was considering that for the frame too.
This will be my first metal fab project, so ALL suggestions/comments are welcome!

Sorry about eh long post, and thanks in advance for any advice!
 
sounds like you may have blown the seals on the jack
does it hold position if you leave it?

as for the rack, be careful, they get heavy fast with 2x2
 
My jack is screwy too. It's a POS that I bought at Sam's. To get it to work I have to pump it all the way up as high as it will go with no weight on it, let it down, then it's ok to use.
 
Yah, im sorta reconsidering the 2x2 tubing. Just for the main part that comes out of my hitch, what thickness 2x2 do i need? Im sorta thinking about using C channel or angle pieces for the frame now. C channel if i want a flat top (run the C with the opening down) or L stock if i want a small lip around the whole thing (think _I shaped).

On the jack, is it worht getting a new cylinder? like, is that an easy thing to find/swap out, or should i just go buy another one? My front brakes are starting ot make funny noises, and id rather not use a bottle jack to work on them....

THanks guys!
 
My friend made a rack to hold his dirtbike off the hitch. He used 2x2 tubing and made a /|\ and put c-channel on top for his tires to go into. It makes the rear suspension on the tahoe sag but it gets by. I would say it is atleast 100pounds, ive looked for cracks and chipping paints and havnt seen any so its holding up fine. I told him he should look into buying a class 5 hitch but hes in no hurry.


Later
 
The one you linked to is 20"X60"
I think 40"X60" may be a little big for a reciever mounted cargo rack:dunno:

I saw one once and had to build one:whistle:
I made mine 24"X60"
materials: 2"X2" sq. tube
1 1/2" X 1 1/2" X1/8" angle for the frame
22 guage or so bottom
All stainless steel , no rust or paint req.:saweet:
I put two eye's on each corner for a spot to tie things down
When I did mine I only put a single brace on centre from the rec. tube to the outer edge for support
If I were to build another I would put a brace front and back for a little more strength
This one is very strong and light wieght (one person can put it on/off)
The only issue I have with it is it rocks slightly in the reciever
BTW mine is not a fold up model , I did'nt see those till after I made mine:doah:
 
Big Jimmy....yah, i think i meant to type 20x60, 40 is too deep. You have pictures of yours? I'd like to see the bracing you are using. THanks for the material specs....would those sizes work even if i don't use stainless? I'm planning to just paint it flat black, as it will just be used for utilitiy and i don't really care about the looks ....of course i'll try to make it look nice, but first fab project kinda makes me wonder how great it will come out.

I thought about making it fold up, but i HATE rattles and that joint just seems like a great place for it to make noise.....so mine will be solid.
 
Make sure there is fluid in the jack.

When I had a press that was leaking a bit, (wouldn't build pressure either) I sprayed silicone (the stuff used for lube, comes out as a mist) in the jack, and it started working fine after that, no leaks either.
 
595489_33_full.jpg






595489_32_full.jpg


Here's a couple of poor quality pics (crap dig. cam.)
That is the brace thet I would use two of for a little more stability(front and back)
The only material I would not use to build one is aluminum , it would probably fail (crack and fall appart :eek1: )
Now as for rattles...
This thing makes enough noise when empty that people two blocks away will turn and look to see (eg. hitting a bad pot hole :haha: ) what the **** was that LOL

I went with a solid bottom with mine because the tie downs will also be used for removable sides (when I get around to it) so that wet roads are not a problem

Just take your time , think of what you want it to be used for and have fun fabbing it up:thumb:
 
I made one too--but I sold it!

I made one of those "tables" too,mine tilted down so you could drive a riding mower on it,and I had 2 eye bolts in the bumper to secure each side,so it wouldn't sag or rattle too much..It worked real good for my smaller 11hp rider mower,but when I upgraded to a 20HP Yard-Man tractor that weighed more than 600 lbs,it was a little hairy driving around with that much weight hanging off the back of the truck(and the truck I used it with has a heavy crane on the passenger side of the bed too!)-
A few times I hit the gas too quickly at a redlight,and I could feel the front wheels slip instead of steering around a corner--I bet I could lift the wheels off the ground if I wanted too!:blush: :blush: --after I bottomed the thing out climbing up a slight hill a few times,I decided it was better to have the tractor riding in the bed of the truck,and a friend bought the "tilt table" for his dirt bikes...I kinda miss it sometimes,it was handy,you could put a motor or a toolbox on it,and it was easier to load than the bed of the truck,but it was too close to the ground at times--my friends truck was lifted 6 inches,so he doesnt have that problem..I was kinda worried some boob would drive into it,and wreck my tractor,so I used the crane to lift it into the bed instead...:crazy: .
 
thanks big jimmy. Thats what im planning on doing. Is the brace angle or square tube?

I'm thinking of sleeving some 2" inside diameter over teh 2x2 in the middle, so i can make another "reciever" on teh back. I know i can't really put any tounge weight on it if i put a ball mount in this reciever, but for a light trailer when hauling brush around the lake or something, it would be cool to be able to use the platform at the same time. Or a bike rack might be put on teh back. Im debating on trying to make the recever on teh back of it, or to buy a bumper mount one and bolt it on there....or scrap the idea in general.

Any comments?
 
Ok, thanks. Sorry to keep jabbering on about this subject, but bear with me, im new to this metal work stuff..

Where do i go to get metal? Like, im guessing a metal place...duh....but what types of places are best? What am i looking to pay here? HOw's it sold, but the foot, or am i going ot have to buy 10' or something?

THanks!
 
Where to get material in your area ?
Try suppliers , but they will most likely sell in full lengths or sheets
Your best bet will be local fab shops in your area , shop around :thumb:
good luck
 
Scrapyard shopping!

I go to a local scrapyard near me when I'm looking for channel iron or angle iron--many times I've bought steel for ten cents a pound in the past(but prices have risen a lot since my last purchase)--its much cheaper than new,and most of the stuff I bought was in excellent condition,the bed of my 74 K20 is nothing more than two sections of pallet racking from a warehouse welded together--
Most wood pallets are 39 inches wide,and the racks are sized accordingly,butting two racks side by side added up to 79 inches,the exact width of my truck cab!,and the length was 8 feet 3 inches,and they are made of 4 inch "C" channel spaced 11 inches apart,it was overkill,as the weight rating painted on them said 6000 lbs!-but I made the bed in about 2 hours,all I had to do was weld the two sections together and add 2 angle irons across the bottom for mounting points to the frame and I was done!-they even had a nice battleship grey paint job already,didnt even have to paint it!(too bad its rust now though:frown1: )--I added my small crane and winch,and I was in the scrap business!-it cost me 90 bucks for the pallet racks,and a fisher snow plow frame I found in the scrap heap with a decent piston,its on my 82 diesel now!-the bed weighs 900 lbs,but it only helped the trucks ride and drivability in the snow--heavy isnt always bad I guess...
.I saw some guy scrapping huge sections of metal decking,like a fire escape uses,about 8x12 feet,I wished I could have snagged it for my shop,I could have made a upstairs in my garage out of it,or another truck bed--too bad the forkloder bent it all up when they unloaded it--it might have been aluminum !--but you have to be right there when the stuff comes in,it doesnt stay intact for long,they are very busy and dont leave stuff lying around very long..I've seen some nice stuff get wrecked--but after all,it IS a srapyard--like they say,one man's junk is another mans treasure!

So if you have a metal recycler in your area,I'd shop there first,unless what your building must be made of brand new steel for whatever reason--you'll likely find some good stuff cheap--every time I go to scrap something at the yard I go to,I almost always bring home something!--must be a disease or something...:blush:
 
diesel4me....

Thanks for the tip! I'll try and look one up.....im a college student so cheaper is always better :saweet:

More money for beer:woot:
Thanks man!
 
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