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floor panels

BT87K5

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Hello all, I am new to this board, I recently bought an 87 K5 blazer. And I am looking for some replacement floor panels for the back. I believe the piece i am looking for is called the tail pan, where the tail gate bolts to. And i need a couple feet past that also. Does anyone know the best/cheapest place to find these. Any help would be great, thanks.
 
Well www.gmpartsdirect.com and bought the complete floor right from gm for way less that at the dealer, this way there was no patching involved, we got the old floor out, cleaned it up, and bolted the new floor back in. there is more to it than that, but thats the idea. I have lots of pics on my website you can see how bad my floor was, and see what I had to do with it. Here are my pics <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/itali83>http://community.webshots.com/user/itali83</a>
Now it's up to you. look at your floor see what you can see for rust, probally double that ammount becuase when you start cleaning and cutting the rust gets much much bigger than you thought, and decide ifyou only need to cut and patch or replace the whole floor. The best thin about my floor, it was one piece just like factory, because it came from factory. If you have anyother questions, talk to me, RIZ, BOSS, Yunit, I know there are others but I'm having a brain fart, sorry guys, btu you'll find plenty of information on this rusty subject.
Ben 87 Jimmy
<font color=blue>Rust=BAD!!!!!</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.bens87toy.alloffroad.com>www.bens87toy.alloffroad.com</a>
 
Do you remember the part number from GM for the floor and do you remember what it ran ya?
Thanks,
Mike

The jeep eater ......
crazy.gif
 
I don't remember the part number. All you have to do is go to your GM dealer, act like you are going to buy the floor, get the part number becuase you "are still thinking about it" and then go to <a target="_blank" href=http://www.gmpartsdirect.com>www.gmpartsdirect.com</a> and plug it in. THe floor was 336.00 + shipping which I don't remember. The only thing that sucks about that site is that they are e-mail only, no phone number, but they are really quick and helpful, they also changed some shipping prices for me becuase they got out of wack on their computer, so if shipping seems outragous or something like that, talk to them and they'll help ya out. Hope this helps.
Ben 87 Jimmy
 
Here is another site full of useful info <a target="_blank" href=http://www.goodmarkindustries.com>www.goodmarkindustries.com</a>
Shawnboy.

<font color=red>If you are having too much fun it's probably illegal.</font color=red>
 
Thanks for the info, I'll stop by the dealer next week and try to grab some part numbers. Figured something like that would be interesting to ship.
Mike

The jeep eater ......
crazy.gif
 
hey mpasino,

Here is the part number for the GMpartsdirect floor #15571692 , $348 + s&amp;h , which comes to $410

88 K5... work in progress
 
I did mine over the summer. Mine was a little more gnarly/involved because my floor was resting on top the frame, the tailpan was cracked in half, and I had to graft in new bottoms to my tailgate posts. I also had to make a new subframe up front because the old one was shot on the edges and 1/8" thick box tubing in there now is sooooo much cooler than the sheet metal that the front lip originally bolted to.

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76>The Blazer Boy Page</a>
 
Yea blazer boy, I had to replace that lip too. sheet metal is junk, 1/8" or bigger is the only metal for me!!! lol.
Ben 87 Jimmy
 
sound like we all sound meet somewhere and see who had to replace the most sheet metal when replacing the rear pan. i bet i would be close to the top. made about 5 trips to the sheet metal guy, funny how it cost less to custom bend thick sheet stock than to order cheap imported panels.

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.plymouthscreenprinting.com>www.plymouthscreenprinting.com</a>
 
when replacing the floor, what all does it require doing? Does it just take unbolting the floor from the frame and taking out the seats. Is there something that you have to do with the body? Like hold it up with something? My father and i have done a resto on an old pickup before and had it down to the frame, is it gonna take that again, taking the body off? thanks in advance for the help, and sorry for the stupid questions
 
Well sir, its pretty much an unbolt operation. There are a row of bolts up front. Some in the back around by the tail lights. If you have a bad floor, the bottoms of your tailgate posts may be bad. I used the bottom halves out of a wrecked '84 pickup. I cut my old ones off and welded in those. The bed is also spot welded to your rear wheel housings. I'd just cut around them and then drill the welds out later. I replaced my wheel housings with pickup ones, which are indectical but they use bolts instead of spot welds and I liked that alot more. The area where the front of your bed bolts to can be rotted too. The edges of mine where gone along with those uprights that support it. I ripped it out and used 1/8" box tubing with nuts welded in the tubing.

You can leave it on the frame. I'd prop the rear up a bit, I didn't and it was fine, but I had to do alot of custom stuff because mine was pretty brutal. It wasnt as easy as I thought it was going to be.

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76>The Blazer Boy Page</a>
 
Just did mine a couple of months ago. Not too bad. We used two floor jacks and 2x4 to lift the ass end up after we cut the pan out. The body settled down 2" or 3". To get the new pan in, we also had to unbolt the top and lift up one side/corner about 8". A little persuasion with a mallet and it found it's new home.

The Tech Forum has alot of info on getting the old pan out, BUT they never got around to posting the installation phase. I had planned on cutting out the center with a Plasma cutter but experienced technical difficulties. Ending up using a torch (good thing mine's diesel).

Real trucks don't have spark plugs!
 
Upon closer inspection - it looks like I'm gonna need to do the same thing to mine. Rule one (or two - whatever) when looking at a blazer - pop the tailgate open and look at the tailpan!

behemoth K5
"Better to remain silent and be thought a fool -
than to open your mouth and remove all doubt"
 
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