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Floor Pans

T

thewestwon

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Parkersburg, WV
I'm currently working on my second blazer (this one's an '87) and I'm going to replace most of the floor pans and bed. If any of you guys have taken on this little project before, please post some tips/tricks or the general process that you used. I'm a little nervous about hacking away and hoping everything fits in straight.
 
have you purchased replacement panels?

the old adage measure twice, cut once...i say measure a couple more times than that, with lots of test fits before welding/attaching the pieces.

if you're doing it custom, definitely make some templates out of cardboard or something

my floorboard repairs were custom out of 16 gauge sheet, but i wasn't going for asthetics and still need to add fill the gap and fully weld them up.

drivers side
PICT0584.jpg


passenger side
PICT0587.jpg
 
I will be watching this, my drivers side outter rear seat mounting point has rusted through and torn. It seems to be just that spot. I was planning on cutting it out, getting a patch piece from a donor. drilling holes in it and stitch it in. Then seam sealer and POR-15. Never done anything like it before but sounds good for a trail truck.
 
I didn't want too pay the money for the replacements, so I formed and bent 1/8 flat steel into the floor. It was tough but worth it in the long run because I ended cutting some out and forming a Stak into the floor. That 1/8 made for some good welding material.

blazer 022.jpg

blazer 021.jpg

blazer 014.jpg
 
No real technical help here, but I left you a message. If you need a set of LMC cab floor pans let me know.
 
thanks - yeah I got the floor from a local keystone shop. My main concern is the length of the rear pans (toward the bed). I think I can save enough of the original front pans to avoid replacing them, but its going to be close. I guess what I really wanted to know (and if you guys mostly use aftermarket floors then it really wouldn't apply) was do you just start at the firewall and work back or start at the ledge under the backseat and move forward? I'm going to save the hump in the middle and perhaps save some of the front two pans, but I'm putting new rockers in, which could cause problems with that. I also may be helpful to know that I'm going for a resto-mod sort of look. I'm going to lift it some more and run 40" fun country's, but I'm paying a lot of attention to detail and originality since its also my dd.
 
Measure twice cut once. take your time and shape the metal to fit rite dont hack it up. unless theres gona be carpet over it like my truck lol
 
thewestwon said:
thanks - yeah I got the floor from a local keystone shop. My main concern is the length of the rear pans (toward the bed). I think I can save enough of the original front pans to avoid replacing them, but its going to be close. I guess what I really wanted to know (and if you guys mostly use aftermarket floors then it really wouldn't apply) was do you just start at the firewall and work back or start at the ledge under the backseat and move forward? I'm going to save the hump in the middle and perhaps save some of the front two pans, but I'm putting new rockers in, which could cause problems with that. I also may be helpful to know that I'm going for a resto-mod sort of look. I'm going to lift it some more and run 40" fun country's, but I'm paying a lot of attention to detail and originality since its also my dd.
Click to expand...


I started with the main section of flat floor, working from the doors in. then worked the front and back, and did the tunnel last.
 
blazin_blazer said:
that diamond plate looks good...i may do that 2 my k5, altho, i have just a small amount of rust.
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I didn't have a lot of rust in the floors, it was full of stress cracks around the seat mounts though. I have quite a bit of rust in the rockers, that I need to take care of. For that I'll make some rectangular tube out of 3/16 plate.
 
Well i began removing everything so i could get up early tomorrow and start measuring, cutting, and welding. I spent about 3 hours of quality time with the front fender, and its still not off. I guess its a good thing I don't need the truck again until Friday. I'll post some pictures of the carnage when I get a chance.
 
Yeah, how goes it? I need to figure mine out quick. I weigh probably twice what the guy I bought the truck from. So the crack is getting worse so I have a serious gangsta lean going to the left. I was going to order a patch panel from LMC truck then just cut the new panel down to a smaller section to fit the softball sized area. Any ideas on reinforcement of the mounting of the seats? Any input or suggestions? Sorry to thread jack, but the help seems localized in on thread since it popped up on my search!
 
it's pretty much been a nightmare. my gas tank had a leak so i pulled it before i started welding in the floor. of course my sending unit disintegrated broke so i ordered a new one. my dad brought me a new fuel tank he got off one of his buddies and i was ready to put it in today when i realized it was a 31 gallon instead of 25. so im working on rigging the sending unit to be a little longer to fit the bigger tank because the 31 g sending unit for fuel injected blazers is around $350 w/ the pump. all that aside, the floor was a good time :wink1:. i got from the 4x4 boot back and the rocker done on the passenger side, finally. as usual nothing fit remotely well. the truck should be mobile by tomorrow afternoon, though. i think im gonna take a few weeks off before diving into the driver's side.i know that if i ever do a blazer floor (or any floor for that matter) again, im going to take vegasbruce's lead and cut everything out and make my own out of diamondplate. i'll post some pictures of the work if i ever get around to plugging my camera in.

to xcalik5x: i would imagine that if you put a solid bead around your patch and all of your floor supports are solid, you won't have any problems. I would seriously consider just putting in the entire patch piece. when tearing mine apart, even the metal that i thought was pretty good, turned out to be frighteningly thin.
 
Glad to hear it went pretty well.

Yeah, once I get into it, it will probably be worse since my truck was originally from Long Island..........

Where did you end up getting the panels?
 
I got them from a local place called action crash repair, which sells parts from a company called keystone. Half of the pieces had goodmark stickers on them, though. I'd recommend checking goodmark's website, classic industries, classic parts (different company), and lmc. You'll be able to pull everything together from them. Classic industries has a solid catalog they'll send you, but blazer parts are kind of tough to identify in it.
 
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