ok Its about time to order floor and rocker panels to fix rust and so I can start cage. Where have ya'll had the the best luck with getting these parts? LMC, GMC Pauls, ebay or any others?
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CK5
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Floor/rocker panels. update 3/14/07
- Thread starter MNorby
- Start date
CDA 455
3/4 ton status
MNorby said:
OH, this will be yet another great reference thread
!
There is a great place in the city of Orange, CA called The Truck Shop. Down the street from Anaheim Stadium where the Angeles play ball,just for reference, that is similar to LMC and the others. Check out their website at: truckandcarshop.com. I know they are not very close to your location but at least they are another alternative with great stock and good pricing. At least order one of their catalogues.
sweet thanks for the link!
I've ordered from Jim Carters and GMCPauls, both had fast shipping, but Pauls seemed more personable. I would definitely order from GMCPauls again.
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
I've ordered from GMCPaul and he is a great guy and very knowledgable. Also have ordered fromTim Christian with http://www.christiansclassics.com/ Christian Classics and he is awesome also.
Alot of vendors carry our year parts now but I'd try to find one that 'supports' our hobby, one that supports our favorite sites/trucks would be where I'd buy from now. 
looking through an LMC and I see a 38-6534 Rocker Panel - Inner for 9.95... whats that? Do I need it? I plan on cuttin gthe bottom of the rockers out and adding sliders and fixing the rusty floor but need most the rocker in good shape for the door seals, etc.
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Most likely you will need it. It ties the a pillar in the the rear of the door frame. Most/all floor pan parts have about half of the inner made onto them.
This is what their calling the inner rocker.
It would normally tie the floor and torsion box sections together as well as attach to the rear of the rocker box.
It would normally tie the floor and torsion box sections together as well as attach to the rear of the rocker box.
for $10 eash prob would hurt to get them now before I get started in this project.
well got my floro pans, inner and outer rockers. Thinking I am gonna ditch the rocker boxes undernieth since I got some 2x3x.180 tube for sliders I am gonna incorp into the rocker and tie my cage into it and tie the sliders into the frame with something similar to the poly performace cage tie in kits.
Any tips/tricks for replacing the floor pans and rockers ya'll can give eh?
Any tips/tricks for replacing the floor pans and rockers ya'll can give eh?
BUDDY
1/2 ton status
MNorby said:
Why not just use 2x6? I know you have this already & I'm sure it'll be fine, but when I do my sliders, I'm going to squeeze in a 2x6 or 8 in the slot, when I cut out the rocker panel, & tie that into my cage & such. I'll keep the main part of my rocker boxes as a frame cause they are in really good shape, & I think it'll work well. I'll also cap them off & use them as my OBA tanks.
Tips & tricks. Or at least an AWESOME reference.
Later.
Buddy
idead is to use thei 2/3 I already have then use tabs and bushing off the slider with s tube to the frame to tie the slider and cage to the frame but with a bushing to prevent noise and some fatuige
got most the driver side floor and inner fixed. Not nearly as pretty as most ya'lls but I am inlaying 2/3 sliders in this and not worrying too much about how smooth since it will be bed linered. I also cut out my perfectly good rocker box in favor of the sliders/ cage ties to sliders/slider and cage tied to frame method. Also frees up a spot to mount my air tanks
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
Mine needs that exact same area replaced, imagine that. I'll get around to that someday, but I guess I better learn to weld first - still haven't tackled that yet. Your repair looks good to me.
That looks a whole lot better than mine.
CDA 455
3/4 ton status
MNorby said:
Looks great!
Excellent job
!
It would prob go easier with something less than 45 wire. I have some 35 but don't feel like changing it all out. Only prob I had was the divot for the body mount bolt and the rolled bead support deal aren't centered correctly on the new peice. The were to oclose together by a 1/2" and when I used the rail as my line up spot to cut then drilled the hole and dropped a bolt through nothing lined up and I had a big gap to fill in the back. I took a hammer and beat out the divot and beat a new one into it with a ball peen with it sitting over the support and re-drilled the hole. Kinda a pain but its all good. Headed back up tonight to try to lay the rock slider in.
got my sliders built and mocked up on drivers side. Tomarrow hope to cut and inlay
