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Floor welding/paint Q's

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SafetyHelmet

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Hey guys! I figured I would do this as a post rather than PMing a few of our resident experts, so that hopefully others can learn from it too.

I've finally been doing some MIG welding. I love it. I realize it's probably not fun to do 10 hours a day for a job, but I sure have a great time practicing at it.

Anyways, after I do a few more trial runs with tacking sheet metal together, I think I will be ready to patch up some rust holes in the floor of my K5.

Here are my questions:

1. After I weld (via lots of tacks instead of a bead), my plan is to grind them down smooth with a grinder, flap wheel, and maybe wire wheel. Is there anything else I should do to treat or prep the welded areas before applying Zinc Chromate primer?

2. After the above steps, I plan on priming the underside as well. Should I use paint over the primer, or should I go right to the spray on underbody coating? I have some 3M rubberized stuff that I have had good luck with. Used it to quiet down my welding cart trays. Worked like a charm!

3. For the interior, I'm removing all of the rust and paint on the floors, and am going to re-prime, and then roll on Herculiner (or an alternative if someone has a better recommendation). Do I need to paint first, or can I put herculiner right on primer? What's gonna last longest / prevent rust the best?

4. I don't want to muss up the exterior just yet, but some areas appear to have some rust under the paint, and I'd rather drive around with primer spots than let it rust further. Should I put anything over the zinc chromate primer if I fix these, since I won't be repainting for at least 2-3 more years?

Thanks again. I hope you guys know how valuable your experience is to others!
 
Ryoken is the zinc chromate guru here--he will know what is best to do..

If it were me I'd topcoat any primer myself,as most are not "waterproof" and will let moisture soak thru and rust to begin again under it eventually..though zinc chromate is probably the least prone to letting that happen..gloss enamel seems to offer the best rust resistance and water resistance..

I haven't had much experience with bedliners yet,other than Dupli-Color brush on stuff that sucked--prep is important,most of them want you to clean the surface well with detergent,then laquer thinner...I have blasted rubberized undercoating on everything from bare metal to painted and even surface rusted,its always stuck and didn't peel so far,though I'm sure it would be best to prep the surface as reccomended...
 
a search for "zinc chromate tech" will bring up an extensive thread by me...


lacquer primer is the one that lets moisture thru...

and urethane primer or epoxy is waterproof.. even the zinc chromate is... if you put a heavy decent coat on it... that really isn't it's best use tho... it's best to go relatively thin, than go right over it in short order with some 2 part urethane primer.. do not use epoxy over zinc... if you go zinc, your committing to a urethane primer if you want quality.... or technically you could use cr@ppy enamel primer over it too..


urethane will last indefinitely... it will chalk up some from sun exposure after a few yrs but that's no big deal, your gonnna sand it and overcoat it anyway at some point...
 
Is that like Mar-Hyde Ultimate 2K? Can I get a 2-part in a spray can, or would I need to get access to a paint gun setup? I suppose worst case I can zinc everything at my place, then go have urethane shot over it at a body shop somewhere.

I'll re-read your zinc chromate posts, I know there are quite a few out there. Mostly wasn't sure if I could slap herculiner right over it, or what.

Thanks again guys!
 
that mar hyde is just a brand of urethane primer.. prolly similar to duponts 2k primer which is what I use..

it's a catalyzed primer.. meaning it has a hardener, must be mixed and sprayed thru a gun..

trying to use rattle cans you become limited.. being a rattle can, it cannot be a 2 part product/resin base.. it is an air-dried resin.. generally a much softer product...

if your just looking to spot spray some stuff you could consider using prevail sprayers


pr-267.jpg



and a 2 part primer... just keep in mind.. quality bodywork products, primers and paints that bodyshops use, are WAY more expensive than buying spray cans at autozone... and VASTLY more durable/professional..

you could just do a heavy douche in green zinc and it would hold up for awhile till ready for prime/paint..


here's the thread on zinc...

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262999&highlight=zinc+chromate+tech


and yes, you could slap bedliner over zinc, but obviously the more product you put between the 2 the better... zinc and uro primer? much much better.. zinc, uro primer and paint topcoat sanded than bedlined? even better...
 
ryoken said:
that mar hyde is just a brand of urethane primer.. prolly similar to duponts 2k primer which is what I use..

it's a catalyzed primer.. meaning it has a hardener, must be mixed and sprayed thru a gun..

trying to use rattle cans you become limited.. being a rattle can, it cannot be a 2 part product/resin base.. it is an air-dried resin.. generally a much softer product...

if your just looking to spot spray some stuff you could consider using prevail sprayers


pr-267.jpg



and a 2 part primer... just keep in mind.. quality bodywork products, primers and paints that bodyshops use, are WAY more expensive than buying spray cans at autozone... and VASTLY more durable/professional..

you could just do a heavy douche in green zinc and it would hold up for awhile till ready for prime/paint..


here's the thread on zinc...

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262999&highlight=zinc+chromate+tech


and yes, you could slap bedliner over zinc, but obviously the more product you put between the 2 the better... zinc and uro primer? much much better.. zinc, uro primer and paint topcoat sanded than bedlined? even better...
Click to expand...


You can buy 2 part primer and enamel that mixes in the rattle can (see examples below), but your choices are limited and they tend to be pricey. I imagine if you don't use all that's in the can in a timely manner it will harden up just like a conventional catalyzed paint, and then you waste your money. Those Preval spray kits cost maybe 5 bucks and you can mix up your own the way you want it for small jobs.
http://www.repaintsupply.com/spraymax-2-part-2k-urethane-aerosol-clear-coat-p3685.html

http://www.amazon.com/Spray-Epoxy-P...s/B0043YP8EC/ref=dpx_acr_txt?showViewpoints=1
 
Last few times i have had to patch the k5 floors- i spray bombed the bottom aide with rustoleum, and then went back the next day and hit the area with cheap auto parts store bedliner in a rattle can... Have used the "rubberized undercoating as well- not sure if i have a preference. Seems to work fine.

right onto the bare metal- flash coat - then heavier coat after it tacks- then undercoat/ bedliner. Pretty quick and easy- seems to work pretty well for me.

I live fairly close to the ocean and EVERYTHING rusts in my driveway or garage. Hate it.
 
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