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Flywheel Replacement

Justin Fleming

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Oxford MI
Can you get to the flexplate crank bolts once you have loosened it from the torque converter? 1990 k5 with 700R4 tranny all stock stuff.

Flexlpate is in horrible condition and I wanted to replace it if I did not have to split the tranny from the motor...
 
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Going to have to split the two to remove the FLEX PLATE( flywheel -is for manual) bolts and to remove flex plate itself.
 
You have to split the two in order to get the flexplate out. But can be done in the truck, done it before.
 
I did mine by sliding the trans and tc back. Then figure out later the ticking flex plate noise was a bad bendix return spring on the starter.
 
seen / read guys use few long threaded rods in place of bell bolts to hold the tranny up as you slide it back 4-5 inches and work it that way .

otherwise down and out .

and as others said

flywheel = stick shift
flexplate = auto

and each has its own length bolts to hold it to the crank .
 
I once replaced a flex plate in a friends '70 Impala long ago,by putting 5" long 3/8" bolts in place of the two upper bellhousing bolts and removing the rest of them,then I put a floor jack under the transmission pan ,and pulled the trans back as far as it'd go till the slip yoke was right against the tail housing..the cooler lines had enough slack to leave them connected,someone had used rubber hose to splice them before evidently..

It sucked to get the bolts out and especially back in,getting them started was a mother--but was possible,using a long box end wrench,but it only took us about 2 hours,doing it outside on the side of the road,with the car parked with the two passenger side tires up on the curb...that was our "lift",that and a bumper jack and two pieces of cordwood for jack stands...the flex plate failed when we were driving along,and luckily we got it parked that way before it wouldn't move the car any more..
 
I've used the two long bolts and slide technique before, it's only going to slide back a few inches before hitting the firewall, but it's enough to get your hands and wrenches up in there. It's a bit tight, but doable.
 
Do you just loosen the bolts on the cross member that ties to the frame rails for the tcase and just let it all slide back o the frame rails. Do you recall if you had to take tranny lines off. I assume shift linkage must come loose,dipstick and i am thinking that should be all?
 
yes you will have remove all that. its as if your taking the tranny out, but just sliding it back.
 
I removed everything attached to it, even removed cooler lines, not going to get much out of them anyways since most of it drains back to the trans anyways.

I believe I ended up removing the cross member bolts and sliding that back with it and still jacked up the tailshaft some to get a bit more angle to get a hand up in between the engine and trans.

I also removed the drives haft from the rear duff but left the slip in the trans.
 
Well I tackled the project today even though I really did not want to do this. It came out well. I used 4 longer bolt 1 above and 1 below the doll pins on each side. Now she start nice and quite and does not sound like some old hillbilly truck.

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