Fookin trailer brakes/HELP

[76zimmer]

I just replaced my controller, and have output to the 7 pin connector, a full 12 volts. I hear the magnets humming, but when I spin the tire by hand and have someone hit the brakes, nothing but a hum. I took one wheel hub/drum assy. off, cleaned everything, lubed the shoe rubpads on the backing plate, cleaned and lubed the adjustment wheel assy. adjusted the shoes out so they litely touch the drum, and WTF, still don't get anything but a hum.

HELP, I'm going wheeling on Wed.

 

[throttleissues]

My only thought at the moment is to make sure you have a good ground on both sides of the plug, truck and trailer. It won't work well if it's trying to ground through the ball.

 

[76zimmer]

OK, with everyones help, ideas, links....I tested the brake circuit today on the trailer. I unhooked from the Burb, I took apart the plug on the trailer, and used a 12amp battery charger. I hooked the neg to the white wire terminal, and the pos to the blue wire terminal, with alligator clips. Turned on the charger, and spun the tires, and they stop immediately. OK, the trailer must be ok, I figure, so I check my recep. on the truck. Seems the ground has gotten rusty over the years so I repair that first. Continuity shows .03. Good on that now. I check the pin in the recep for power from the brake controller, and get nothing with the brake pedal pushed or the manual finger slide control engaged. So back up to the cab to check the controller output again. I just replaced this thing last Friday, and now I got no power out again. WTF caused this. I jump a wire from the batt. supply (12v) to the brake wire heading to the back of the truck. I get full 12v back there now. My brake switch supply is giving me a good bright test light when the brake is depressed, and my ground circuit to the controller is sound.
So I got another controller today, and will put that in first thing in the am. I'm pretty sure that has to be the problem. But I find it a bit surprising that the new one was bad.

Thanks a bunch guys.

 

[76zimmer]

another update, after talking with the Tekonsha tech dept. he had me test my unit in the following manor:

UNHOOK trailer connector from truck.
test the 2 pins on the trailer wiring plug (ground, and brake supply wires) with an ohm meter. They should read 1.0-1.5 ohms (my test meter was set on 200ohm) My trailer read 1.6, he said that should be ok.
On the truck, test for 12v ground circuit. Ensure it is sound.
test the blue wire out of the unit to the brake circuit by probing with a test light. When probed the green light on the controller should light up.
Then with the probe still in the circuit, slide the manual control and the test light should light up. This ensures the unit is functioning correctly in the manual mode.

My original problem was it wouldn't work in manual, or using the pedal.
I thought my ground was sound, as it was on the intake manifold, and the stud head was clean, and so was my wiring connector on the stud. What I didn't realize is the stud wasn't completely torqued down, and the stud had sealant on it. This may have contributed to a intermitently bad ground situation. I ran a direct ground to the battery, and have since had no problems.