For those on the fence about removing sway bar...

[owenst7]

I had a squirly situation in the snow this weekend at about 45, and i would have 100% rolled my truck w/o my sway bars.

No change for me.

Sounds to me like you might need to lose some weight in your right foot :P

I finally blew up a 140k half shaft on my '96 plow truck (8' steel Fischer)/DD in Alaska...When I was replacing them I noticed that the swaybar end links were rotted through (ie no sway bar, they are retardedly wimpy end links on the GMT400s). I have no idea when that happened, but by the look of the rust it had been for a couple years. I also pull a ~7k lbs trailer up the Glenn and Parks Highways 2 or 3 times a month during the summer with that truck. This is Caribou Creek on the Glenn...the angle does not give you an idea of how steep it is (my 6.5 cannot maintain 55 going up either side when empty) nor does it show you the drop would still be about 30' from the bridge at the bottom. When you drive this section in the winter when the asphalt lost under the ice, you really shouldn't be doing more than probably 35 except maybe the uphill straight sections. If your back end start wandering you don't touch the steering wheel, just get off the pedal. There really shouldn't be any body roll when it's icy like that because your tires obviously have less friction on the ground and it isn't capable of pushing against the tire like they it can on dry roads.

The K5 has not had a sway bar since the day it came home with me. Even with a welded rear, 52"s, and 17" wide 40"s, it still handles better on the ice than a stock pickup with no weight in the bed.

 

[K85 Octane]

I'm sure it depends on the truck and set up
I ditched mine, but I only have a 2" lift w/32's. I drive 80 on the freeways of Los Angeles and up the mountains to a local mud hole. The mountain is VERY tight but I still seem to take them faster than everyone. Kinda funny. Until I get my larger tires and lift on, I'm not sorry I ditched the sway bar.

 

[chevydan3]

When I unbolted the bolts on the leaf plates the front jumped like it was held under tension, and all my bushings are in good condition.

This is why taking the bar off or using a disco kits makes the ride so much better. The swaybar travels in a really short radius arc and the leafsprings travel in a really long radius arc. So the swaybar actually causes the front suspension to bind up. This problem is amplified with a lift. The disconnect kit allows the bar to still do it's job and the leafs springs to do their's without binding. So even if you don't disconnect the swaybar, ever, the disco kit is still a good investment if you want to keep the swaybar, if not, scrap it.

 

[COCHEV]

I can't stand the ride on my Burb without it, when i don't hook up the discos after a trail run, it tends to lean alot more on curves and such. I guess for those that don't do alot of higher speed driving and freeway running and whatnot, it's probably not much of an issue, But here in Phoenix, just about anywhere you go, it's freeway driving and a big possibility of evasive driving due to some weird driving habits of alot of these people around here

It does seem to soften up the ride somewhat over bumps and such, but i'd rather have the control of the vehicle.

so, did you notice any improvement in ride going from the fixed swaybar to the when the discos where hooked up? just wondering if the movement allowed by the discos helps

 

[andyblack]

I took mine off when I put the 4" front springs on and the suspension travel increased greatly. I saw the bar sitting in some weeds out in front of where I park the other day and wondered what I could make out of it. Hmmm....a pull up bar? a weapon? I just don't know. Ideas??

 

[prairie]

I am in the middle of installing EZ inches and spring plates from DIY4X on my CUCV M1008. The new spring plates don't have a provision for the swaybar, so it is coming off.

I want minimal lift to fit 35's. The EZ inch with the axle moved forward 1", a 1" ORD body lift, and trimming fenders should do the trick.

Hopefully the extra articulation gained from the lack of a swaybar won't give me any tire clearance problems. I'm guessing the lack of a swaybar will not be as noticeable, considering the 1 ton suspension, as on a 1/2 ton or even a 3/4 ton pickup.

 

[K85 Octane]

I am in the middle of installing EZ inches and spring plates from DIY4X on my CUCV M1008. The new spring plates don't have a provision for the swaybar, so it is coming off.

I want minimal lift to fit 35's. The EZ inch with the axle moved forward 1", a 1" ORD body lift, and trimming fenders should do the trick.

Hopefully the extra articulation gained from the lack of a swaybar won't give me any tire clearance problems. I'm guessing the lack of a swaybar will not be as noticeable, considering the 1 ton suspension, as on a 1/2 ton or even a 3/4 ton pickup.

not only do the plates not have provisions, but you're moving it forward, so ur kinda screwed there too. Be care about moving the axle forward 1" if you aren't doing crossover steering. You might not like the short draglink. If you keep the stock steering, make sure the draglink is level. You might need a drop pitman arm. Shortening the draglink just makes things worse, especially if it's not level.

 

[prairie]

not only do the plates not have provisions, but you're moving it forward, so ur kinda screwed there too. Be care about moving the axle forward 1" if you aren't doing crossover steering. You might not like the short draglink. If you keep the stock steering, make sure the draglink is level. You might need a drop pitman arm. Shortening the draglink just makes things worse, especially if it's not level.

I have an ORD crossover steering kit for another project, so I guess I could possibly use it. But aren't there some issues with 1" Zero Rates and crossover steering? Or is that only an issue when using a zero rate and crossover steering, without moving the axle forward?

Thanks for the heads up on keeping the draglink level!

 

[4xcrazy]

so, did you notice any improvement in ride going from the fixed swaybar to the when the discos where hooked up? just wondering if the movement allowed by the discos helps

I honestly cannot remember what the ride was like when the bar was fixed, as i installed the lift, it wasn't too long after that I installed the disco kit. It definately improves the sway control though with it hooked up. Mine is also a 4" lift on 35's. I have even had a friend following behind be when heading out to a lake call me on the phone asking if my truck was ok, they said they could see it leaning more than normal on the harder curves. I hadn't hooked up the sway bar from the previous trail run a few days earlier.
I imagine the larger lifts won't be affected as much by the sway with the stiffer springs.

And it does make a huge difference while offroading with climbing over stuff, the added articulation you get without it hooked up is incredible.

It's definately one of the better purchases for me and my ride.

 

[K85 Octane]

I have an ORD crossover steering kit for another project, so I guess I could possibly use it. But aren't there some issues with 1" Zero Rates and crossover steering? Or is that only an issue when using a zero rate and crossover steering, without moving the axle forward?

Thanks for the heads up on keeping the draglink level!

It all depends on the height of the steering arm. If it's very flat, their might be trouble. If it's raised off the knuckle an inch, should be ok. The spring arch has a lot to do with it also. I have the same goal as you. 1" blocks, 1.5" forward, crossover. But my arm is raised a tad. Still hoping it goes smooth.

 

[pblaze725]

The best thing I did with my swaybar:

 

[andyblack]

There's got to be a good use for these things. They're made out of pretty heavy duty steel. Maybe a trapeze bar or something...

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Think this spring I'll disconnect my bar. See how it does. I know the bushings at the frame look like hard plastic.

I am in the middle of installing EZ inches and spring plates from DIY4X on my CUCV M1008. The new spring plates don't have a provision for the swaybar, so it is coming off.

I want minimal lift to fit 35's. The EZ inch with the axle moved forward 1", a 1" ORD body lift, and trimming fenders should do the trick.

Hopefully the extra articulation gained from the lack of a swaybar won't give me any tire clearance problems. I'm guessing the lack of a swaybar will not be as noticeable, considering the 1 ton suspension, as on a 1/2 ton or even a 3/4 ton pickup.

I had a M1008 with a similar setup but 11.00R16 (38x11ishR16) Michelin XL's. I dumped the sway bar. The stock springs didn't care, it rode better, and still steered like a 80's 1 ton truck.

Couple members on here have done the axle forward an inch on stock suspension. Said there was more bump steer but no one really complained too hard.
I was under the impression that cross over won't work without 3-4" of lift at a minimum.

 

[owenst7]

Think this spring I'll disconnect my bar. See how it does. I know the bushings at the frame look like hard plastic.


I had a M1008 with a similar setup but 11.00R16 (38x11ishR16) Michelin XL's. I dumped the sway bar. The stock springs didn't care, it rode better, and still steered like a 80's 1 ton truck.

Couple members on here have done the axle forward an inch on stock suspension. Said there was more bump steer but no one really complained too hard.
I was under the impression that cross over won't work without 3-4" of lift at a minimum.

My suspension is about 3" taller than stock, but I have zero clearance issues with my crossover at full stuff which currently is a couple inches past inverting the leaves. I'm not even running a bent draglink...that would give a guy even more room. My axle is also moved forward an inch.

The stock engine crossmember would probably need to be trimmed a bit, but its design is absolutely awful and if I were doing motor mounts on even a stock DD, there's no way I would put that piece of trash back on there.

 

[LAZYMON]

Took mine off today, why did I wait so long. Just backing out of the driveway over the snow burm I noticed the differance. Use to be every bump I hit would jerk the whole front, it was an enjoyable ride to work today. Now all I need is to loose the blocks and put in the flip in the back, oh and a new steering stabilizer, mines probably the original one.

 

[Blue85]

This is why taking the bar off or using a disco kits makes the ride so much better. The swaybar travels in a really short radius arc and the leafsprings travel in a really long radius arc. So the swaybar actually causes the front suspension to bind up. This problem is amplified with a lift. The disconnect kit allows the bar to still do it's job and the leafs springs to do their's without binding. So even if you don't disconnect the swaybar, ever, the disco kit is still a good investment if you want to keep the swaybar, if not, scrap it.

This is correct. You shouldn't use the swaybar with a lift without the disconnect because the aftermarket springs are longer than the stock springs. The disconnects provide a pivot point so the sway bar can actually work correctly and not bind the front.

With push pull steering the sway bar helps a lot because body roll = steering input.

The disconnects improve the ride a lot, but it is even better with no sway bar at all. Now if your springs are stiff enough that you don't notice removal of the sway bar, it doesn't make sense to talk about ride quality anyway. For long road trips I really prefer the steering precision of having the sway bar on (with discos, of course).

 

[Mastiff]

Old thread, but anyone have comments on ORD springs with no swaybar? I'm trying to decide. I don't do a lot of commuting or anything in my K5, but I want it to be safe. 4" lift by the way.

 

[badmix]

Youll be fine, just remember your driving a TRUCK, not a sports car. keep that in mind and youll be fine.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Old thread, but anyone have comments on ORD springs with no swaybar? I'm trying to decide. I don't do a lot of commuting or anything in my K5, but I want it to be safe. 4" lift by the way.

Talk to deuling, he has ord springs and took the sway bar off. Said it didn't take much to get used to it and won't be putting it back on.

 

[andyblack]

So the springs that ORD sells are their own brand? I thought they just sold Tuff Country or whatever. I haven't been to their website in a while.