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For White Knight other Exp. 4 wheelers

R

Rockjunkies

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 26, 2001
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Location
Oklahoma
Any tips on cutting down the 1 ton frame? I have a std. cab long bed frame that I would like to shorten the wheel base on. I am going to use the p.u. cab and build a tube flatbed for a trail rig, but don't want that long of a wheel base. I have some general ideas on how it can be done, but I would like some input from anybody who has done this for a 4x4.

Keep it simple
 
I wouldn't cut it sguare, I'd run a stair step cut on each surface, v cut the cuts, weld it back, then either box the area or brace it...weld short sections allow the areas to cool,

White Knight
(guess you wanted me you capped the W and K)
 
i had machine shop form c chanel that fit inside the frame rails and bolted it in after the cut was welded. heard both arguments and personally went vertical top to bottom cut. had zero problems in 6 years. mine is 2wdr one ton frame cut for my shortbox.
here is pic of where the cut ended up in between the steady bearing crossmember and the rear cab mount crossmember. we kind of went overkill with bolts
<a target="_blank" href=http://wsphotofews.excite.com/014/UU/jD/ll/lt28711.jpg>http://wsphotofews.excite.com/014/UU/jD/ll/lt28711.jpg</a>
 
hey white_knight,
How difficult was it to get the spring hangers off? How long did the whole frame shortening process take?

thanks

-fender-
 
air hammer the rivets, very loud but doesnt put heat into the frame or mess up the mounting holes like torching them will.
i say it is easier to cut the middle than move everything forward. at least the rear hanger will be fully bolted to the frame. use the 1/2 ton 4x4 hangers in the rear as they drop much farther from the frame
 
It sounds like it would be alot easier to move the hangers forward, but how do you deal with the arch in the frame for the axle? I know that you wouildn't need it on a lifted truck, but what if the rear hanger needed to be where the arch is?

Keep it simple
 
Its best to make a lazy z cut to shorten a frame, unless you just move the hangers and bob it off.

Cut about 1/2 way down the frame then go along the length of the frame about a foot then the rest of the way down. Bevel the edges, and weld it up good and make sure its red on the oppisite side, to assure penetration. Then get a piece of c-channel to lay inside, weld and bolt that w/ case hardened bolts and tack the nuts to the bolt. That should be fairly stout.

You can straight cut, which is easier, but the z is stronger.

I get all the exercise I need pushing my luck!
laugh.gif
 
that is one way the other was a diagonal cut.
seems to be more chance of error with the 'lazy z' as well as you would have to find a lengthy section or deal with all the interference issues over a greater area. after studying OEM frames and seeing how dodge built there 94+ frames in 3 subsections with only a few rivets to connect the sections i know mine is way overkill. a problem with external plating included saddle fuel tank mounting brackets that need to go through the area of the cut, and i wanted to leave as many crossmembers as possible and to do the z would have had to remove them and reposition them after the reattachment which i felt could have led to frame rails walking, so i left them all in place.
had to have the c channel custom formed and i used hardened bolts with stover nuts
 
You wont have a prob w/ the frame walking into a diamond if you cross brace it w/ something welded on then cut it off when your done.

I get all the exercise I need pushing my luck!
laugh.gif
 
yup, way more work, and the added problem of more heat into chevs ficticious 'high strength' steel frame. i get enough flac just admitting i have welded to it.
 
I bet he does come in handy to fab stuff up. And he has all the toys to do it also. LOL!

I understand that 77, I have been considering putting in a section of 1 ton frame in the front where the box bolts up. I just dont know if I want to mess w/ it tho. Be easier to just weld in the plate and brace it before it breaks.

Ficticious high strenght steel, I like that! If it was hi. str. it wouldnt drill so easy. Now the newer GM trucks is a different story, I havent had to pull one yet, but I understand they are a monster to pull.

I get all the exercise I need pushing my luck!
laugh.gif
 
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