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Ford 205 rear output shaft for cv driveshaft?

Thumper

Thumper

1/2 ton status
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What is the story on these cv driveshafts? If I find a Ford 205 t case, does it have the output I need to swap in to be able to run a cv driveshaft? You know the one with the flange that the driveshaft bolts to? Will it fit in the rear output of my case? I checked out the shafts at High Angle Driveline, and there has to be a cheaper way. If I snag one of these output shafts, and the driveshaft, I should be able to splice the rest of my shaft onto the cv portion of the Ford one right? Or wrong?
Thanks for the info.
Mike
 
cheeper maybe -better is the question here - i try my best to offer a shaft that is compatable and better than anything you would get from a competitor - we modify ours mostly the same for all- most have a 32 degree capable c/v - as for yours - are you looking at doing a front output conversion for an upgrade or just to run a cv that might handle the angle better? if so what output do you currently have 10 spline or 30? Jess
 
I want to put on a rear CV shaft. I am going in tomorrow to get my new spring perches put on, and I was thinkin if there was a cv shaft in my future, I would weld em aligned for it. If not, I will have to weld them on for a non-cv shaft, and figure out my angles.
Yours look incredible, but my problem is that I am in Canada. By the time I get a 300.00 USD driveshaft to my door, it costs me like 800.00 CDN. I was just looking for an option that I could get done around here. I am not sure on my splines, its a stock 79 205 t-case. Trust me, if I was in the US, I would be knockin at your door, but the $$ option for me just makes it impossible.
Thanks for the reply.

Mike
 
i understand- you know we can go us mail on the delivery to canada there are alot less problems with things this way- and its alot cheaper - but it does go to the office and you have to pick it up there- as far as rotaing your diff -its what you will need to do - and yoke options for c/v's are this - 1310 c/v requires a 1 7/8 seal (you will have to change the seal in most cases ) $ 45$ us- 1330 c/v is the same seal as this -55$ max angle on the 1310 is 34- on the 1330 28 degree's - then the 1350 c/v flange we have a patnet pending on 99.00 fits right in place of your original - no seal conversion needed- call if this makes no sence- thanks Jess 530-877-2875
 
I hate to burst the bubbel but all of the part the are used bt highangel are stock Spicer parts that are reworked, the cv comes out of a ford explorer, the flange is a most use for this is one that was used in dodges with the parking brake drum mount on the back of the tcase. There is a bit of machine work done to it to get the spicer cv flange to fit. i had a stock spicer parts 1350 drive shaft made by Tom Woods and one of High Angels drive shafts in my hands side by side last Decmber and also some spair spicer parts from Inland Trucks and all of the parts were the same.
 
Crap, I didnt think it would be this involved. It sounds like a nightmare and is going to cost me a fortune. I guess I will be welding the new perches on for a non-cv shaft.
Thanks anyways.

Mike
 
why couldn't you find a front cv from the junkyard that has the u joint style attachement and have it retubed at a machine shop to the length you need for the rear. would not be as strong but definately cheeper. you wouldn't have to get a flange style output either. not sure if this would work but i've been thinking of it as a cheep way to have a rear cv.
 
You can with 1330 joint not the 1350 wich would be fine for most users
 
Well, thats what I was thinkin... but what vehicles had the style I need? The ones where the u-joint is held to the t-case yoke by the straps. My stuff is all 1/2 ton, so whatever u-joints they are I will be using. I guess they are 1310s or sumthin. Dunno the part numbers up here arent the same. Cause there is a welding shop right here that made my last driveshaft, so Im sure they can weld on the cv portion to the current shaft. Keep the inputs coming! Thanks.

Mike
 
there is a cut off there cause i have a 73 case in my 78 truck and when i swapped them out i tried to swap the flange style out put on the 73 case and it wouldn't work. the splines where different. so i ended up having to get a u joint style drive shaft up front. the 75 burb i have also has the u joint style too.

just get one from the junkyard and then you will have a buildable unit. i have the machine shop at my local Napa do all my drivelins. i have a couple and am goint to try and get one made for the rear. if i end up tearing it up i'll go for the 1350 jobber.
 
I ran a 1330 CV for a couple years and it worked out pretty well. i had to rebuild it once but it was seeing some miles at that point and seeing some pretty big angles sometimes. It was stock bronco stuff. You might be able to look into using the flange from the front of a 208 to hook up a flange style CV, maybe even use the flange style CV from a GM front driveshaft. i don't know how that works out with the tube sizes and connections but they're a reasonably beefy joint and really common. I know if I had to have a CV joint cheap from a junkyard that's the first route I'd take.
 
Yeah thats a smokin idea, use the front flange from a 208 on the back of the 205. I think you will have to remove the slinger ring or turn it down some so it dont hit the rear output seal housing(at least it would on the front 205 output anyways) and then fiquire out to correct seal to use.
Get a caddy driveshaft which has the CV on both ends, one end has that flat plate flange on it that will fit the 208 flange. I have used the caddy shafts several times but always used the other end and probably have the other halfs still somewhere. All you would have to do then would be add a end yoke on the shaft that fits your rear yoke.

Junkyard 208 flange from a transfer with a busted case-$10.?
Caddy driveshaft-$10.-$40.?
Driveshaft shop-$100.?

You could have a pretty good set-up for around $150. if you shop wisely!

RGF
 
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