I had one of my towers pull the bolt through causing some significant frame damage. Looks to be down travel related rather than bottoming on up travel. Anyone ever have this happen? I'm curious if there is a better way to mount with bracing, etc. before I tear into the weld repair, etc.
CK5
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Ford shock tower pull through
- Thread starter rcamacho
- Start date
I don't have anything to say about the repair as far as bracing goes. But you may want to put on some limiter straps. Did you jump the truck?
Jason4x4
1/2 ton status
Badass90k5 had too short shock on his and it actually cracked the frame from pulling down on it.
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
I think I've seen people run a brace from tower to tower to keep them from having so much leverage.
No jumping for me - slow in low. I'll repair the frame and then look for going back to the stock location with limiters or fabbing up something more rugged.
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These are the towers I have and yep had the same thing happen due to short shocks and being a tad airborne.
I now have new shocks with plenty of travel.
To fix I took towers off welded brace on inside of frame redrill holes, I smashed the pulled out part back flat first then welded the brace and welded in the small crack on one hole, put it back together then put 2 triangular pieces of steel on each tower. The go across the top of frame and up back side of tower so looking from the top of the tower it has a u shape on the back side.
I now have new shocks with plenty of travel.
To fix I took towers off welded brace on inside of frame redrill holes, I smashed the pulled out part back flat first then welded the brace and welded in the small crack on one hole, put it back together then put 2 triangular pieces of steel on each tower. The go across the top of frame and up back side of tower so looking from the top of the tower it has a u shape on the back side.
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oops here is a pic
Thanks, have a pic to illustrate the bracing across the top of frame rail? BTW, I'm running Rancho 5012's with extended bump stops so too short is unlikely.
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
I ran big washers on the inside of the frame to combat this. I am bottoming out 15" travel shocks up and down at this point. Next step is bumpstops, then limiting straps.
shaun89
1/2 ton status
adding onto that, maybe u could do a 1/8" plate on the oppisite side of the frame to make a frame sandwich...which reminds me, im pretty hungry
Yeah, that's my thought exactly assuming I re-install the old school Ford towers. I also like the idea of a brace on top of the frame rail.
I've been designing my shock towers lately... I have the "imitation" of the Ford tower down to what I want, but I've really been thinking about tieing the 2 together with a tube crossmember over the front of the intake.... thinking a flat flange on top of the towers, that I can bolt a top tube to later.. removable that way too..
I had this problem when I was too lazy to order correct length shocks. Cracked the frame behind the towers, Jason welded the cracks, then relocated the towers to vertical position then had a crossmember made. This one is bolted to the backs of the towers and there are tabs welded behind the towers to bolt to the top of the frame rails for more rigidity. I haven't had any further issues, I even went 65+ mph in the sand wash across rocks and only damage was a ripped out auxilary battery tray.
BTW, sorry for the dirty pics, they're the only ones I have. I have more but my laptop won't let me post them...
BTW, sorry for the dirty pics, they're the only ones I have. I have more but my laptop won't let me post them...
I had this problem when I was too lazy to order correct length shocks. Cracked the frame behind the towers, Jason welded the cracks, then relocated the towers to vertical position then had a crossmember made. This one is bolted to the backs of the towers and there are tabs welded behind the towers to bolt to the top of the frame rails for more rigidity. I haven't had any further issues, I even went 65+ mph in the sand wash across rocks and only damage was a ripped out auxilary battery tray.
BTW, sorry for the dirty pics, they're the only ones I have. I have more but my laptop won't let me post them...
yup, thats what I'm talking about.. homebrewed tower for me tho...
how are those 5150's treating ya?
They're aight, but they don't seem to put the "stiffness" in my body rolls but I guess that's because I still had a top on. Took the top off and the shocks were more effective. I'm not sure if it was the valving selection I chose, which is 255/70. And don't get me wrong, I mean they were great on the rocks and stuff.
More pics all when you get the chance. 
I'm in the process of redesigning the shock towers I made for the Product Review write-up I did on the Doetsch Tech's. They pretty much look like Brian's including the tab that bolts to the top of the frame rail. I still ended up with cracked frame.
You can see the tab for the top of the frame rail in this pic:
Best picture of how they bolt to the frame:
Here's how the cracked frame looks:
Cracked across the 2 lower mounting holes.
I know mine is not due to the shocks bottoming out or over extending; it's just from constant suspension movement and poor design.
I'm extending the towers down to the bottom of the frame rail. It will be bolted on with 4 bolts, 2 close to the top and 2 close to the bottom. Additionally there will still be the tab on the top of the frame rail plus a tab around the bottom. So the shock tower will form a [ around the frame rail. Where my towers sit the bottom of the frame rail is nice and rigid because of the engine cross member so it will help to hold them rigid by having bolts at the bottom of the frame rail.
I did the rear shock towers this way and they are holding up fine. I also have a bar across the top of the rear towers because they project above the frame rails about 8" more than the fronts. I've contemplated running a bar across the tops of the front towers, but it will be a pain working over the motor. Plus I wonder if a bar could compound the problem if the frame is tweaking much in that area.
I'd love to have a backing plate behind the tower, but with the engine cross member and motor mounts there it isn't possible to fit one in there. I'm going to use the largest washers I can.
You can see the tab for the top of the frame rail in this pic:
Best picture of how they bolt to the frame:
Here's how the cracked frame looks:
Cracked across the 2 lower mounting holes.
I know mine is not due to the shocks bottoming out or over extending; it's just from constant suspension movement and poor design.
I'm extending the towers down to the bottom of the frame rail. It will be bolted on with 4 bolts, 2 close to the top and 2 close to the bottom. Additionally there will still be the tab on the top of the frame rail plus a tab around the bottom. So the shock tower will form a [ around the frame rail. Where my towers sit the bottom of the frame rail is nice and rigid because of the engine cross member so it will help to hold them rigid by having bolts at the bottom of the frame rail.
I did the rear shock towers this way and they are holding up fine. I also have a bar across the top of the rear towers because they project above the frame rails about 8" more than the fronts. I've contemplated running a bar across the tops of the front towers, but it will be a pain working over the motor. Plus I wonder if a bar could compound the problem if the frame is tweaking much in that area.
I'd love to have a backing plate behind the tower, but with the engine cross member and motor mounts there it isn't possible to fit one in there. I'm going to use the largest washers I can.
Jason4x4
1/2 ton status
I took mine and welded it to the bump stop bracket, and that way it goes the full length of the frame rail and uses 6 bolts to hold it on. Should prevent cracks that way.
