Ford Van Pitman Arm $35

[owenst7]

Off a ~75~80 (+/-) Ford E-series van. They are 1.75" drop, so they just barely clear the frame with the castle nut. Part number is D5UA-3590-CA.
They will need to be reamed out to fit ES2234/ES2233/ES2010 (TRE), so obviously they need to be reamed to fit ES2026/ES2027 (DLE) too.

This is at ride height with stock K5 52" rears up front with the axle in stock location. I still have about 4.5" of bump travel. With the Superlift arm, I would only have about 2-3" of room, which would make things real tight trying to fit hi-steer and move the axle forward.

If there's enough interest, I may be able to afford to buy a reamer and ream them out for drag link ends. I can also dig up 2 wheel drive sector shafts, so you'd have all the steering box parts you need for crossover.

EDIT (better measurements):
Axis-Axis length: 6"

Major Diameter: 0.74"

Minor Diameter: 0.62"

They are 1 3/4" drop.

This is mine which is reamed out to the dimensions of ES2026/ES2027 (GM drag link end). Figured some people might like to see how much material is left after reaming them out.

 

[thatK30guy]

Measure the tapered hole on top and bottom, at the smallest and biggest.

Whats the distance from center to center of the DRE hole to the box shaft hole?

I'm trying to find a certain Ford arm to use on early Highboys for a power steering conversion kit.

 

[owenst7]

Measure the tapered hole on top and bottom, at the smallest and biggest.

Whats the distance from center to center of the DRE hole to the box shaft hole?

I'm trying to find a certain Ford arm to use on early Highboys for a power steering conversion kit.

I edited the original post with some better measurements now. I was being lazy last night and it was cold in the garage .

 

[thatK30guy]

The 6" length apart is the same as my arm but not sure on what size the holes are exactly on mine as I don't have any micrometers.

I wish I knew of someone or a book or site that knew or could decode the casting numbers on all pitman arms. The numbers are very visible on mine but it doesn't have any brand name on it at all. Just numbers.

Know of any way to decode my arm?

 

[owenst7]

The 6" length apart is the same as my arm but not sure on what size the holes are exactly on mine as I don't have any micrometers.

I wish I knew of someone or a book or site that knew or could decode the casting numbers on all pitman arms. The numbers are very visible on mine but it doesn't have any brand name on it at all. Just numbers.

Know of any way to decode my arm?

I don't, sorry. You could go online or to napa and look up the rod end you have on there now. They are listed with maj/min diameters at every napa I've been in. Then just see if it matches.

They aren't too expensive to have reamed. I paid $30/piece locally to have mine done.

 

[BoondocK5]

You still got this? I want it!

 

[owenst7]

Yup, I will update this thread accordingly as I try to grab these whenever I see a van getting parted out or come across one at a junk yard.

These fit in a small flat rate box so shipping is about $5 so long as you're in this country.

 

[owenst7]

Bump to first page. I've got one packed up in a box, waiting for an address to go to!

I should be making a trip to the junkyard to look for more soon (crossing fingers). Is there any interest in 2wd sector shafts? I can usually find those pretty easy. I could even include a cap tapped for 3/8NPT for hydro, maybe include a pipe plug for those of you who are planning hydro assist in the future but are only doing crossover at the moment (that's how I did it).

BTW these still clear the frame without issues with the weld-on reinforcement. I know because I recently broke my frame trying to run 40s in the rocks before I got my assist on .

 

[owenst7]

Two more left.

How would an extra $30 sound to have it reamed out? I'm not sure how long they last, just going off what I paid a local shop to do mine. I've been convincing myself to buy a reamer from Xcut but it means eating more Top Ramen.

If that's the case, I'm going to need to know whether you want them reamed to ES2026/ES2027 (stock drag link ends) or ES2010/ES2234/ES2233 (stock tie rod ends, and I think this may be the same dimensions as the ORD ends...not sure on that). I run drag link ends because tie rod ends would bind at droop, but apparently a lot of you are getting away with them. The drag link ends are the same taper but bigger diameter, so it doesn't make a difference to me, but obviously if I ream them out to fit drag link ends and you're running tie rod ends, it's not going to work out.